Starting a PPS pro

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

lanceuppercut

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Mar 1, 2010
Messages
56
I decided to get some dry ferts, as per recommended by people on this forum, and found some KNO3, K2SO4, and KH2PO4 at a LFS for pretty cheap. I don't have a gram scale, but i think I got pretty close with my estimations using a teaspoons conversion with a web program called fertilator. I have two questions about this. If i have the mixture wrong, and end up with my nutrients out of whack, how soon will algae start springing up? Also, the LFS didn't have any Micro/plantex/CSM +B. Will I be OK only dosing NPK for now?

I have a 40 breeder with the following
4x18w T5 6700k on for only 6 hrs right now
diy CO2, 3 2-liter bottles
ecocomplete substrate

1 large unIDed narrow leaf sword
2crypt spiralis
many pygmy chain swords
unIDed stem plant
 
I would try and get some CSM+B pretty quick... but it won't hurt to start NPK without it.

The best way to know if you got the mix right is to test the tank after a couple of doses. See what your nitrate is reading. Test for PO4 if you have a PO4 test kit. Potassium won't much matter... you can't really over dose it unless you spill the bag into the tank.
 
I use pps pro. IMO it's really hard to work with at first. Algae issues abound. I just recently got my tank into balance (barely) and now I'm dealing with some strange deficiency. In my opinion pps pro is:

1.) Lacking in Iron if you use CSM + B as your only micro.
2.) Calls for almost too much K+. Sure it's hard to OD with it but it builds up...and it builds up rather quickly I might add.
3.)Lacks enough PO4 compared to NO3 ratio. Prepare for string algae and green spot algae. I'd modify it to reduce NO3 if your tank is well stocked and increase PO4 by ~10-20%.

All in all it depends on your tank set up. My tank runs a very very light bioload.

also: you are going to see algae quick. She doesn't wait to spring up.

IMO: you'd be really well off using pps macros and fluorish complete micros for both extra iron and their comprehensive. CSM +B lacks...something... I have yet to identify it though. I HAVE on the otherhand encountered boron deficiency while using Fluorish comprehensive so take everything with a grain of salt. All ferts have pros and cons. Some cons are just easier to remedy. Boron deficiency was treated with a few drops of 1mol. boric acid solution.
 
I agree with Crepe... I have adjusted my PPS Pro based on a few weeks of testing to put everything right where I want it... 10-20ppm nitrate, 0.5ppm PO4... I also dose Fe once or twice a week in addition to my PPS Pro autodosers.

I haven't experienced much algae with PPS Pro however... I have had great results. Much easier (since I built the autodosers) than dosing in my other tank (which I just target dose... really sloppy :) ). I think the key is figuring out what the actual required dose is in your specific tank... the calculation is only a guideline as every tank will uptake nutrients a little differently based on the lighting intensity, plant types, substrate, CO2, bioload, etc etc.
 
What about photo period? I moved up to 8 hrs a day since starting. is that enough, or too much? I don't have a P)4 test kit, and I heard that they are kind of rare...
 
8 hrs should be about right.

Any store that sells SW stuff should have a PO4 test kit. It certainly isn't a requirement... but for me it is peace of mind...
 
I love my po4 kit. That was the best 18 bucks I spent on any little bottle of goo. I'd get one. I personally would start off at a 6 hour photo period then bump up to an 8 hour once the tank is in balance and once the tank is matured and you've got the growth you want back down to 6 hours.

I don't have much time to do frequent pruning and water changes so this was the best way for me to compromise growth and convenience.
 
Back
Top Bottom