How about API laterite? I'm guessing it's too expensive to do completely as substrate but does the addition of small amounts make a difference to CEC compared to say sand?
Substrate recommendations?
- Thread starter vonp
- Start date
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PoppaRyno
Aquarium Advice Addict
I havent as of yet, but im heavily planted.
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Reefer James
Aquarium Advice Freak
Theres really no such thing as too much nutrients haha. People worry too much about phosphate and nitrate...
I've wondered on this? Phosphates and potassium seem fine to dose to high levels here. Nitrates I'm still getting my head around. I find if nitrates are consistent at say 40 all is fine. But if nitrates were say 20 one week and I accidentally over-dose next week (say to 60 as I can't tell colours), it seems I get the odd fish sulking.
I'm not sure if I'm noticing a pattern or not when I bounce nitrates up. Just seen it a few times but maybe coincidence. Is that possible? I've just assumed out of the majors that fish would be more sensitive to nitrate?
Actually just a thought - I think it is potassium nitrate but will have to check again.
Caliban07
Aquarium Advice Addict
I think an excess or too many nutrients can be problematic if the other factors required for successful plant growth are insufficient. Algae can utilise the fundamental requirements in such lower amounts than plants but it seems that when the plants needs are met algae cannot flourish. Whether this is down to allelopathy or that algae has evolved to accept that it cannot compete in an environment where plants are thriving I don't know. I don't think anyone knows.
As far as dosing goes. Perhaps it is the ever changing parameters that the fish seem to sulk about rather than the high nitrates themselves?
After sporadic plant growth and much odd fish behaviour I decided recently to stop dosing. This also following reading Diana walstad's book. I have stopped changing the water and vaccuming the gravel. I also added a siesta period of 4 hours during the day as described in the book. I feed more generously than before too.
I have reduced flow dramatically to the point where I am even considering removing the filtration altogether and reduced surface agitation.
The one thing and most ridiculous thing i haven't done (considering I am attempting a Walstad tank) is use a soil underlay because I don't want to take all the gravel out. My tank has been running for two years. Although I have been vaccuming here and there during that time I know I have a certain amount of detritus already at the bottom.
I have already noticed better growth from my plants but it is seriously slow. I prefer it that way. I have a 180 litre tank with 2 x 25w t8 tubes that are nearly 18 months old. What I find remarkable is that I have dwarf hair grass (didn't research) that don't get me wrong, it doesn't look the healthiest in the world BUT it is sending out runners and I can see new shoots coming up. In an attempt to improve growth I added some micro fertiliser. Not even a lot, actually a third of the recommend dose and within two days I had a film of algae on the front glass where I previously had none.
Algae will always find somewhere in the tank where it can sustain itself slowly so I find it ridiculous that people try so hard to remove it.
I have ordered 2 new T8 tubes and a reflector. I'm convinced that the only thing now holding my plants back is the ridiculously poor par output of my ageing T8 flourescents. I read (may not be true) that flourescents should be replaced after 6-12 months.
What I also find interesting is that Walstad refers to a par rating of over 100 (can't remember the exact number) as moderately intense.
This way I find works out better for me.
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As far as dosing goes. Perhaps it is the ever changing parameters that the fish seem to sulk about rather than the high nitrates themselves?
After sporadic plant growth and much odd fish behaviour I decided recently to stop dosing. This also following reading Diana walstad's book. I have stopped changing the water and vaccuming the gravel. I also added a siesta period of 4 hours during the day as described in the book. I feed more generously than before too.
I have reduced flow dramatically to the point where I am even considering removing the filtration altogether and reduced surface agitation.
The one thing and most ridiculous thing i haven't done (considering I am attempting a Walstad tank) is use a soil underlay because I don't want to take all the gravel out. My tank has been running for two years. Although I have been vaccuming here and there during that time I know I have a certain amount of detritus already at the bottom.
I have already noticed better growth from my plants but it is seriously slow. I prefer it that way. I have a 180 litre tank with 2 x 25w t8 tubes that are nearly 18 months old. What I find remarkable is that I have dwarf hair grass (didn't research) that don't get me wrong, it doesn't look the healthiest in the world BUT it is sending out runners and I can see new shoots coming up. In an attempt to improve growth I added some micro fertiliser. Not even a lot, actually a third of the recommend dose and within two days I had a film of algae on the front glass where I previously had none.
Algae will always find somewhere in the tank where it can sustain itself slowly so I find it ridiculous that people try so hard to remove it.
I have ordered 2 new T8 tubes and a reflector. I'm convinced that the only thing now holding my plants back is the ridiculously poor par output of my ageing T8 flourescents. I read (may not be true) that flourescents should be replaced after 6-12 months.
What I also find interesting is that Walstad refers to a par rating of over 100 (can't remember the exact number) as moderately intense.
This way I find works out better for me.
Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
Caliban07
Aquarium Advice Addict
My gut feeling is that it is the lift in nitrates but all very new for me with dry ferts dosing. I take my hat off to people that EI dose and have great fish and plants, my dosing schedule has adjustment scribbles each week.
I've had nitrates and phosphate much higher (but stable) while increasing phosphate doesn't seem to impact the fish. At the moment I've got phosphates at a fairly stable level.
Potassium - really should test but it involves 5 bottles and rubber gloves so I've been slack. I've read potassium doesn't impact fish much though? Last test said it was high but plants are doing better so idk.
I always do a nitrates test each week when I do phosphates and nitrates seem to be the one moving around the most.
Of course on Monday the CO2 bottle ran empty lol so into the shop this Saturday
Fresh2o
Aquarium Advice Addict
No rinsing is needed. Water may be cloudy for a while but should clear up. Water changes may help with this.
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Reefer James
Aquarium Advice Freak
On Sunday evening I watched this video on youtube and have changed my stance on substrate to aqua soil. I really liked what he said it made a lot of sense with good rational
I hear Fluval has a comparable one to the ADA Aquasoil.
I hear Fluval has a comparable one to the ADA Aquasoil.
Mebbid
Aquarium Advice Addict
Nice video, thanks for sharing.
