The nice folks at Green leaf

[Smitty]

How many drops did you put into the solution?

One think I noticed is that even when my solenoid closes there is still pressure in the line and it takes a little bit of time before the gas stops (there is still pressure between the bottle and the diffuser... and in the bubble counter-at least for me). On the other hand, when it opens, it takes a little time before it starts so it kinda balances out in the end.

 

[Da Squid]

It seems the meter can be a good .3 degrees off before It will kick in. Maybe I should have set the Slope like the directions said. I thought it wouldnt be neccesary for an aquarium but that was probably hasty of me. I'm leaving soon for a wedding so we'll see what happens when I come home tomorrow night. Ha!

 

[Orlando]

Hmm. Now I'm a bit confused. I've upped the CO2 to the point where I can no long count the bubbles going through the counter to get a nice mist comming out of the diffuser. And it must be working because my PH dropped from 7.2 to 7.0
I have a PH regulator that I callibrated for 7.0, so now the gas has shut off (at least I know that works!) but my drop checker is still showing a dark blue. Does that mean to get adequate CO2 in the water I'll need to drop my PH much further?

Sorry for the confusion on my part. If your bubble count is to fast, then this is what you need to do.
It seems your concerned about pH by reading your set point values in your post. Ph go's right out the window in planted tanks injected with co2. With that said try this..

Lower your set point .5 points from what your desired level would be(keeping in mind ph does not matter with co2 enrichment).
Keep your BPS around 3BPS..
Whatch your drop checker at the end of the day and see what color it is.
If its still blue, lower it another .5 points. Read drop checker again the following day. If its still blue, lower another .5 points....
Your going to do this until your drop checker turns green. Kepping your BPS the same at all times.

As for co2 flowing in your system after the alarm turns the solenoid off. That is built up pressure in the line and can take 5-20 minutes to bleed out depending on how long your lines are..

We use this method with hundreds of tanks and it always works regardless of what type of fish you have, Discus,Altums,S.Dwarf Cichlids etc.

Regards,
Orlando

 

[spartoecus]

DIY!

 

[Da Squid]

Thanks Orlando! I'll give that a try right now.

I set the PH on the regulator to about 6.8 before going out of town on Saturday morning. I just came back from the wedding about an hour ago and the PH was reading at 7.7 and the gas was still not kicking on. Strangely enough the working pressure was down to zero. I had it at 10psi when I left. I twisted it back to 10psi and things are starting to go back on track. NOt sure why the working pressure would die off... sometimes I think I screw up everything I touch. . I'm trying your method now and I'll post results. Thanks for putting up with me !

 

[Orlando]

Its no problem D Squid Setting up a fully automated co2 system with a controller takes careful tuning that usually take 2 days to get it just right

Check all your tubing connections to make sure they do not leak, this could be a reason your working pressure has dropped. Check all conections from the top of the bubble counter all the way to your diffusion device.
This includes all check valves as well. Anytime there is something inline, you always want to check for leaks,

You can use a mild soapy water solution to find leaks. More soap than water helps.

 

[Robert H]

To answer your question, a pH controller works by an electrode that is in the water and reads the pH. When enough C02 is added to lower the pH to whatever you have it set at, it signals the solenoid valve to shut off. When the pH rises as the plants are using up the C02, it signals the solenoid to turn the C02 back on. It keeps the pH swing to a minimal level.

The electrode has to be calibrated with a calibration solution in order to be accurate.

If money is not an issue and you want a system that is as automated as you can get, then go for it. Milwaukee makes the cheapest pH controller, Pinpoint makes the top of the line, and Aqua medic has the ultimate computerized monitor system. Which one did you get?

You could have just used the solenoid to shut the system off at night, and a drop checker to read the c02. You don't have to spend 200 dollars for a regulator either. You can get a very functional regulator that includes a bubble counter, needle valve and solenoid for under $100, or a german regulator made for the aquarium with a very high quality needle valve for under $150.00. Did you shop around?

Solenoids are always hot to the touch