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#1 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,290
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Which of these items to go with first 75g?
please scroll down the my last post thanks
What brand and Watts should work good for a 75g with small amount of plants?
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I thank you all for your attention and time! 75g/Rena Xp3/Inline Heater/Rena Air 200/Eco-Complete/Current Dual Daylight System 6 Rummy Nose, 9 Ottos, 2 Yoyo Loach, 1 Golden Nugget Pleco, 2 Julli's Cory, 4 Angelicus Botia, 1 Chocolate Kuhli Loach, 3 Ghost Shrimp, 1 SAE, 1 Black Mollie, 1 Redeye Swordtail Mollie, 1 C-Pleco, MTS, Guppy's Plants Argentine Sword, Amazon Sword, Micro Sword, Xmas Moss, Pennywort, Hornwort, Jave Fern, Baby Tears, Moneywort, Ludwigia, Wisteria, Giant Bacoba, Hygro 'Sunset' |
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#2 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
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The biggest question is why do you want UV?
I use one BTW, and am happy with it. I have a Coral Twist 13w. I doubt it actually is srong enough to kill anything, but I have it so I use it. I think to be realistic, you need to get over 25w, and have a slow water flow through the U/V. Read that to mean a U/V should be on its own pump and recirculating system. So for a 75G, maybe a pump that pushes 35-50 GPH, through a 25w+ U/V system might actually have some effect. Anything less is most likely just a placebo. |
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#3 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,290
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I want Uv cause I read that it can kill microbacteria etc. I keep having ick problems, parasites etc, and now check this link out:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewto...725&highlight=
__________________
I thank you all for your attention and time! 75g/Rena Xp3/Inline Heater/Rena Air 200/Eco-Complete/Current Dual Daylight System 6 Rummy Nose, 9 Ottos, 2 Yoyo Loach, 1 Golden Nugget Pleco, 2 Julli's Cory, 4 Angelicus Botia, 1 Chocolate Kuhli Loach, 3 Ghost Shrimp, 1 SAE, 1 Black Mollie, 1 Redeye Swordtail Mollie, 1 C-Pleco, MTS, Guppy's Plants Argentine Sword, Amazon Sword, Micro Sword, Xmas Moss, Pennywort, Hornwort, Jave Fern, Baby Tears, Moneywort, Ludwigia, Wisteria, Giant Bacoba, Hygro 'Sunset' |
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#4 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
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The backbone curve in your Neon, is most likely fish tuberculosis. It can be slowed down by keeping the temps in your tank below 78f or so. The scratching of your Botia? Could be almost anything. Ick looks like little grains of salt on your fishes body and fins.
For U/V to be effective, my above comments hold true. BTW... if you do have Ich, heat is a very effective treatment. |
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#5 |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 766
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Im running 150gph through an 11w, been very effective so far.
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#6 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,290
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is neon tuberculosis contagias?
__________________
I thank you all for your attention and time! 75g/Rena Xp3/Inline Heater/Rena Air 200/Eco-Complete/Current Dual Daylight System 6 Rummy Nose, 9 Ottos, 2 Yoyo Loach, 1 Golden Nugget Pleco, 2 Julli's Cory, 4 Angelicus Botia, 1 Chocolate Kuhli Loach, 3 Ghost Shrimp, 1 SAE, 1 Black Mollie, 1 Redeye Swordtail Mollie, 1 C-Pleco, MTS, Guppy's Plants Argentine Sword, Amazon Sword, Micro Sword, Xmas Moss, Pennywort, Hornwort, Jave Fern, Baby Tears, Moneywort, Ludwigia, Wisteria, Giant Bacoba, Hygro 'Sunset' |
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#7 |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 766
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Any fish with TB is. You should wear gloves when working in the tank IF it does have TB.
Post a pic in the sick fish forum. http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html#TB
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#8 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,290
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unfortunetly I will have to put the neons down most of them have some sign of curving and spots, I have my girlfriend with lung cancer and very to no imune system because of it, I cant rist her or I to get this and neons where always giving me problems from 2 years ago until now dont know why but I feel shitty for this. thank everyone for all the info and I'm sorry I need to do this to the poor guys.
__________________
I thank you all for your attention and time! 75g/Rena Xp3/Inline Heater/Rena Air 200/Eco-Complete/Current Dual Daylight System 6 Rummy Nose, 9 Ottos, 2 Yoyo Loach, 1 Golden Nugget Pleco, 2 Julli's Cory, 4 Angelicus Botia, 1 Chocolate Kuhli Loach, 3 Ghost Shrimp, 1 SAE, 1 Black Mollie, 1 Redeye Swordtail Mollie, 1 C-Pleco, MTS, Guppy's Plants Argentine Sword, Amazon Sword, Micro Sword, Xmas Moss, Pennywort, Hornwort, Jave Fern, Baby Tears, Moneywort, Ludwigia, Wisteria, Giant Bacoba, Hygro 'Sunset' |
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#9 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
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Neons are very prone to NTD (Neon Tetra Disease) which is also called saddleback disease. It starts as a discoloured spot on the back, right at the dorsal fin. last time I looked it up, there was no solid cure for it. Same result, the fish has to be put down.
Fish TB is not common IIRC. Sorry to hear about your girlfriends problem. My hemotologist said at one point, I was very lucky to have a wife that stuck with me through treatments, I'm sure your girlfriend is just as lucky. Best of luck. |
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#10 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
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One thing about U/V is how do you know it does anything? Having no sick fish might just mean you are doing a good job in caring for them.
You could in theory, add fish with say ich to a tank with U/V. If you do this several times over a period of time, and the disease never spreads it might mean the U/V is working. When you read up on U/V the levels needed to really be effective are much much higher than what is typically used in a home aquarium. As for Fish Tuberculosis (TB), and Neon Tetra Disease (NTD). They are different diseases, but share some similar symptoms. Bottom line is the result is the same. Fatal, and contageous. Best to euthanize the fish early. Though there are many thoughs on euthanizing fish, I personally use a pair of snips to sever the head at the spine, then put the fish in the trash (no flushing). It is quick, humane, and prevents contamination of local water supplies. Properly putting fish down, while not pleasant, is a responsibility we have to accept as fish keepers. |
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