What are these spots on my plant?

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It's a bit hard to tell from the picture. Could be damage from a fish like a pleco rasping too hard on the leaves, a nutrient deficiency, insufficient light, or even a non aquatic starting to rot. I'm not familiar with the plant so I don't know for sure if it's aquatic or not, or what it's requirements are if it is aquatic.
 
My Amazon Swords have the same thing. They are getting brown spots that eventally turn clear. It started before I got Otos so I don't think the fish are the reason.

I am a newbie but I'm guessing (with mine anyway) that it's a light/nutrient thing. CO2 maybe. I dunno.

But any advice people can give the OP, will be useful to me too, I think.
 
http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/plants/plants.htm
scroll down it is listed under argentine sword

Edit: this is what I found so far.
Argentine Sword Plant
Freshwater Aquarium Plant Care

Scientific Name Echinodorus argentinensis
Size Up to 18 inches
pH 6.8 - 7.5
Temperature 60°F - 77°F
Aquarium Light Needed 50 watts for every 25 gallons
Water Hardness soft-hard
Origin South America
Care Grows better in softer water than hard water. Optimal growth may not occur if the water is too hard. Plant in a loose substrate and supplement with an iron fertilizer

Edit: this is another thing I found about it.

« Echinodorus angustifoliusEchinodorus aschersonianus »Echinodorus argentinensis
by SarahFish
Its synonyms are: E. grandiflrus ovatus Mich.; E. ellipticus var. latifolius Micheli sensu Hauman; Alisma grandiflora; E. longistylus hort.

Emerse leaves erect, long-petioled, 80 - 120 cm long. Blade ovate, at the tip shortly acuminate, at the base abrupt, or regularly oval, at the tip blunt or incised, 15 - 26 cm x 7 - 15 cm wide with 7 - 13 veins and distinct pellucid lines. Submersed leaves on short petioles, blades oval or ovate, on both ends acuminate or blunt. This species has two forms.

Stem erect, 90 - 150 cm long, sparse and inconspicuously warted, infloresence paniculate, broadly branched in the lower whorl, having 5 - 12 whorls containing 6 - 12 flowers each. Bracts shorter or longer than the pedicels. Pedicels 1 - 2.5 cm long, sepals broadly ovate, ribbed, 4 - 6 mm long, petals white, corolla 3 - 4 cm in diameter. Stamens usually 24. Aggregate fruit globular, shortly echinate, achenes compressed, 3 mm long x 1 mm wide, having 3 - 5 ribs and 3 glands placed usually in one row, beak 0.4 - 0.5 mm long.

Veins are often dark reddish-brown ansd the blade may have reddish-brown irregular spots.

Needs a deep rich substrate and good light. Will withstand sub-tropical - tropical temperatures. A strong grower, too big for the average aquarium, the leaves soon growing out of the water. In the wild it grows in sticky mud along rivers. Rataj reports hybrids with E. grandiflorus and E. longiscapus which have mixed features. Supplement with iron and CO2 if possible. Seems to prefer soft to hard water.

Seems to bloom best in cooler water and in short-day conditions.

Apparently rarely found in the trade, the majority (if not all) specimens being offered being E. palaefolius.

Edit:http://www.birstall.co.uk/cgi-bin/Shop.cgi?Store=www.birstall.co.uk&Action=aquariumplants.htm
 
From the information that you've located, it looks like we can rule out non aquatic as the problem. This is the 75 gallon in your sig, correct?

From the lighting that you have listed for your tank, you probably only have about 80 watts over the 75 gallon, which would be low light. You may simply not have enough light for the plant. The information that you've posted about the plant suggests that this plant needs medium light or better to survive which is typical of most swords.
 
Often plants that don't have enough light will simply wither or melt away.
 
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