What Co2 system should iget for my 125 ?

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Rafy0126

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
187
I have no idea what co2 system to get for my 125 never had any.
 
I have a 220g and use this... New Premium Aquatek CO2 Regulator with Integrated Cool Touch Solenoid | eBay.

In a large tank you'll want at least to diffusers so you need splitter.... Aquatek Splitpro CO2 Splitter for Solenoid Regulator 2 Way | eBay.

I use this bubble counter... New Aqautek Bubble Counter with Integrated Check Valve | eBay. You need 2 if you use a splitter and diffuse into both ends of the tank.

You will also need 2 drop checkers in a large tank.... Glass Aquarium CO2 Drop Checker Test Optional 4oz 4DKH Liquid US Seller | eBay.

Then you need to buy a CO2 cylinder. I use a 20 pound one on the 220 and a friend uses the same size on his 125.
 
I don't need a picture. Just answer these questions....

What is your lighting and bulbs that are on the tank?
What plants and how many are on the tank?
What size tank is it?
What ferts do you use?
Do you use liquid carbon now?
 
Ok Is a 125
I got a lot of plants
I got a Beamswork 72" led and I just added
Two 36" evo if you rate watts is about total 225.
The tank is about 60 days old.
 
Yes I use excel and flourish but stop cause im seeing some algea on my plants. It has dirt on the bottom of the gravel.
 
Well the Vals are most likely reacting to the liquid carbon. Most Vals are sensitive to it. Now I had Corkscrew Vals in my 220 for over a year using high dosing of liquid carbon and they did fine but for the most part Vals and liquid carbon don't mix.

You've upgraded your lighting which means you are either going to have to increase your dosing of liquid carbon a lot... probably 1ml per every 2 gallons. I had to use 1ml liquid carbon per every 1 gallon of water in my high light 220 before I added CO2.

Also Flouish isn't enough for higher light tanks using liquid carbon or CO2. You need to look into dosing dry ferts so plants have all the macro and micro nutrients they need. Right now your only dosing some micro nutrients using liquids. Also dry ferts are very cheap and will last at least a year.

CO2 would be a better option IMO but you can run a higher light tank with liquid carbon only. I did it for well over a year on the 220. If you opt to use liquid carbon you need to order some Metricide 14 Day solution which is about $27 shipped. It's mixed at a 1:1 ratio with RO or Distilled water to get 2 gallons for under $30. I kept and use old Excel bottles to fill as needed.
 
You use dry ferts with a dirt tank ? Isn't that what the dirt is for? Just curious
 
You use dry ferts with a dirt tank ? Isn't that what the dirt is for? Just curious

The dry ferts are mixed with RODI water and replace the more expensive liquid fertilizers (Seachem, API). The dirt provides nutrients for root feeding. That said, it it not uncommon to add root tablet or pellet fertilizers to a dirt tank.
 
The dry ferts are mixed with RODI water and replace the more expensive liquid fertilizers (Seachem, API). The dirt provides nutrients for root feeding. That said, it it not uncommon to add root tablet or pellet fertilizers to a dirt tank.

Anyone you can recommend they are a lot in ebay. Some more expensive than other
 
As for dry fert this $15 package is all you need and will last maybe a couple years in a 125... http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/micro-macro-fertilizers.html.



You need 3 dosing bottles found at the bottom of this page... http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizer.html.



This is a good thread about dosing PPS-Pro. Only read the opening post not all the comments after it.... http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/pps-analysis-feedback/39491-newbie-guide-pps-pro.html.



There are two things I do different from the article. First I use 3 dosing bottles as I split the macro nutrients for better custom dosing to the needs of the tank. Nitrates in one bottle, phosphates and potassium in one bottle, and micro's in the 3rd bottle. The other thing you'll notice the recipe calls for using MgSO4, magnesium sulfate, which you don't need if you have hard tap water with a Gh of 4 or above.
 
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This is how the tank is doing not bad but starting to see some algea. Should I go with dry ferts or co2 or boths
 
If you seeing algae cut lighting back to 6 hours until it's gone and then slowly increase lighting but with high light 6 hours is often the max it can be run. That's what all my planted tanks run for.

I'd do both were it my tank.
 
Another method you can use is doing a siesta. Do 4 hours on, 2 hours off, and 2-4 hours on again. I have some really low lights on my 220g which I run 1 hour before and after my metal halides so the tank is lite longer for more viewing.
 
Another method you can use is doing a siesta. Do 4 hours on, 2 hours off, and 2-4 hours on again. I have some really low lights on my 220g which I run 1 hour before and after my metal halides so the tank is lite longer for more viewing.

Yeah I've read this before, I need a timer that can handle my 3 lights. But I will give it a try at least manually. I'm still looking in to a CO2 system. Thx for all the advice.
 
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