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What have you found works better? The hagen system where the bubblue zig zag back and forth or a DIY reactor? Would they diffuse the same amount of CO2?
Really depends on the size of the tank. For 20g or smaller, the hagen ladder works well.
If you spent $$ on a pressurized setup for a 55g or more, you'll want some kind of fancier reactor, either a DIY from PVC or gravel vac tube/powerhead, or purchase a pre-made version of these like the AquaMedic reactor or one of the Vortex ones (sturdier gravel vac style)
I'm building a new in-line reactor chamber to use on my 10gal this week when the parts come in...this is a major overbuild, but should be really neat. I'll definitely take pictures, but I might even write up an article on how I built it, something like Ghazanfar Ghori's article but with a bit more.
My previous reactor was a gravel-vac/pump like malkore mentioned. This worked well to diffuse the sugar/yeast CO2, but even the slightest back pressure would cause the Rio 600 pump to make a horrid clicking noise. Everything would be quiet for about a day, maybe two, then organic material would begin clogging the coarse foam in the bottom of the chamber. It was loud, a lot of maintenance, and a big accident waiting to happen. The day it came down, I ordered an xP1 and some bio-balls so an in-line reactor could be used after the filtering. I realize that an xP1 and a huge in-line is far beyond overkill with a 10gal...oh well...I may even add UV.
Good point Mojo. It just so happens there is a non-planted 29gal in the other room...so that could very well happen, but I really like working with this 10gal.
Here is the 10gal tank CO2 reactor dry-fitted together. That is white PVC dyed black using Rit Dye (if you want to know the process, let me know.) The small piece on the side is the bubble counter temporarily held on with rubber bands, but cable ties will be used for a more permanent installation.
Maybe you should post the RIT dye instructions in the DIY forum anyhow. I'm interested to see how it works, and if it's water safe. If it is, it's a lot cheaper to go that route than buying epoxy paint and letting it dry for days on end.