Button Polyps

[Berzer]

I recently grabbed some purple and green button polyps that looked nice at the store. They were open later that day at home but have since closed up and not opened. All of my other zoos and polyps are open and doing good. I have a 29g with a coralife 65watt 50/50 power compact on it. I have the polyps sitting on the right side near my powerhead but i was wondering if anyone has any info on the ideal placement for water flow or lighting needs. My zoos i got that same day are next to them and look very nice. My cleaner shrimp does like to crawl on my polyps and close them up so i'm wondering if maybe he's bothering them and maybe thats why they won't open. My water quality is excellent as well as dosing supplements. Any ideas?

[lando]

First off, it this is a new addition just give it some time. Most zoos are easy to keep and have a bit lower light requirements when compared to other corals. However, if you bought some "super-colored" zoos you may not have enough light to keep the bright colors enhanced. The brighter the color the more light is needed. It is also possible that they are recieving too much flow if positioned next to a powerhead. Try moving them to an area of less flow and see what happens. Due to your lighting I would place them higher in the tank.

My water quality is excellent as well as dosing supplements.

Can you post parameters and what you suppliment?

[Berzer]

All are Seachem brand

Reef complete 1 cap 2xweek
Reef Trace 1cap 2xweek
Reef carbonate 1 cap 2xweek
Reef Plus 1/2 Cap 1xweek
Reef Iodide 1cap 2xweek

I use R.O. only and I add Reef Buffer to my top off water prior to topping off.
I have in there currently
2 pieces of encrusting gorgonian
1 hand sized green star polyps
Discosoma Mushrooms sized about the palm of your hand.
Large Hawaiian Feather duster
zooanthid polyps
Small Flowerpot Coral
A few single polyps on rocks that are growing and doing well.
pair of percula clowns
cleaner shrimp
1 green chromis
small clown goby
Firefish

[acronym:2994d8be30="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]PH[/acronym:2994d8be30] 8.3
Nitrite 0
ammonia 0
Nitrate 0-12

I never really test the calcium because i dose the calcium and carbonates in equal amounts so as to not zap the carbonate and drop the [acronym:2994d8be30="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]PH[/acronym:2994d8be30] quickly
I've had the light for about 12 months and i'm thinking about replacing it soon. I've read its good to replace every 12-18 months because they degrade after this time and do not put out the correct elements needed for the corals.

I had the polyps on the bottom of the tank at one point but they didn't open either so i was thinking maybe moving to the top just to see what happens. In the store we had them in the middle of the tank under metal halides and they were open alot, but i think maybe they do need more light possibly. I'll move them and let you know what happens.

[lando]

I never really test the calcium because i dose the calcium and carbonates

This is exactly why you should be testing for both [acronym:62b50e21f6="Calcium"]CA[/acronym:62b50e21f6] and [acronym:62b50e21f6="Alkinity"]ALK[/acronym:62b50e21f6]. It is never good practice to dose anything you do not test for. To be honest, I would stop wasting money on all of those additives. Proper parameters can be maintained and trace elements replenished by doing regular water changes. Spend that hard-earned money on the fun stuff like corals! Over-dosing can really catch up with you, especially in a smaller tank. Iodine, in particular, can be very dangerous. This new colony may be more light-dependant then the other things in your tank. Going from [acronym:62b50e21f6="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:62b50e21f6] to 2watts/[acronym:62b50e21f6="Gallon"]gal[/acronym:62b50e21f6] of [acronym:62b50e21f6="Compact Flourescent"]CF[/acronym:62b50e21f6] lighting is a change. I still say give it some time. You may also want to look into a 2x65watt or 2x75watt fixtures. Your corals will love you for it.

You should also change the bulbs every 8-9 months, [acronym:22629d44da="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:22629d44da] bulbs will not last 12-18.

Cheers
Steve

[Berzer]

R.O. water is supposedly stripped of almost everything right? So where would i get all of my trace elements from? Or are those left in there still? I used to use tap water and got hair algae really bad but since the R.O. change a year ago it's been great. I plan on changing my bulb soon, not sure i can fit 2 lights on my tank. I need to get my glass top cut probably because the emperor 280 forces my glass top to sit open by a quarter of an inch over the lip of the tank. Then i could put two lights on it. Or is there a 30" power compact with dual bulbs. I have never seen anything like that in my store and we usually carry everything from power compacts to Metal Halides. I treat with Iodide, not iodine because the iodide is not dangerous, or so the bottle says. If everything i need is in the water already then why does anyone use/sell supplements?

Originally Posted by Berzer

R.O. water is supposedly stripped of almost everything right? So where would i get all of my trace elements from? Or are those left in there still?

Your saltmix for the most part. Many trace elements are not rapidly depleted and it really depends on what's in the tank that could utilize one or any of the additives you've chosen. This is why water changes are the best means of maintaining them. You are never "building" the levels of any one type, merely maintaining them. Additives can and will build the levels until they become toxic. More often than not, algaes and bacteria are constantly converting/releasing certain elements within the system. It creates an ongoing cycle of availability.

I treat with Iodide, not iodine because the iodide is not dangerous, or so the bottle says.

Iodide is "supposedly" the least harmful and most available to many types of organisms in the tank. It can however be dangerous if there is not enough use within the system. Levels of Iodate being 0.04-0.06 [acronym:cf3ecf16af="Parts per Million"]ppm[/acronym:cf3ecf16af], iodine and iodate at 0.02ppm. It will also matter greatly if the test kit you are using is sophisticated enough to read all three forms of iodine. The result being iodine+iodate+iodide= 0.06ppm

Iodine in Marine Aquaria: Part I

Iodine in Reef Tanks 2: Effects on Macroalgae Growth

If everything i need is in the water already then why does anyone use/sell supplements?

Like anything, we are a race of convenience. It's more desirable for many to simple add a capful of this or that in order to avoid laborious tasks like water changes. Water changes are one of the single most important husbandry practices a hobbyest can do and should not really be "substituted" with additives.

There are in fact some additives (alkalinity & [acronym:cf3ecf16af="Calcium"]Ca[/acronym:cf3ecf16af] primarily) that will become an intricate part of your husbandry but that will depend on how your tank progresses and what's kept in it. Just because it's on the shelf doesn't mean you need it

Cheers
Steve