new tank set up

[ClamKnuckle]

So I've been thinking about setting up a [acronym:01975e62bc="Freshwater"]FW[/acronym:01975e62bc] tank for some time now....bounced around from Discus, to Africans, to a planted tank, and now I think I am just going to go with a basic community set up.

I've had [acronym:01975e62bc="Freshwater"]FW[/acronym:01975e62bc] tanks before but I want to do everything the "right" way this time.

The tank is going to be 55 gallons

So here are my questions to start with....

Is it better to use [acronym:01975e62bc="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:01975e62bc]/[acronym:01975e62bc="Deionization"]DI[/acronym:01975e62bc] water and add some of that [acronym:01975e62bc="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:01975e62bc] right type stuff to it or just my tap water treated with a de-chlorinator Start Right type chemical?

What's every ones opinions on filtration? [acronym:01975e62bc="Hang On Back"]HOB[/acronym:01975e62bc] or Canister? Bio-wheels or no?

What is the best brand of test kit for the [acronym:01975e62bc="Freshwater"]FW[/acronym:01975e62bc] market?


I don't want to ask anymore and make this post too long and boring....sorry to be asking such new-be questions...I'm reading posts and the articles section and trying to pull what I can out of there as well!

[BrianNY]

Welcome to the [acronym:8a311cebce="Freshwater"]FW[/acronym:8a311cebce] world clamknuckle The first bit of advice for you is not to over complicate things at the onset. Before you decide on [acronym:8a311cebce="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:8a311cebce] water I'd like to know the pH, Kh, and [acronym:8a311cebce="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:8a311cebce] of your tap water. Most tap water is suitable for a community tank without the need of [acronym:8a311cebce="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:8a311cebce].

As for filters I like cannisters. They're just so versatile, quiet, and are unobtrusive in the tank.

[MoxieGrrrl]

I agree with BrianNY on the canister - I splurged on an Eheim 2213 and I can't tell it's on unless I touch it. The air pump that claims to be silent is a heck of a lot louder.

And I use the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals brand of test kits. I haven't seen an all-in-one set, but the boxes are easy to spot - the Ammonia test is in a yellow box, the Nitrite test is in a pink box and the Nitrate is in a purple box. I had gotten a TetraTest all-in-one kit, but the ammonia color card jumped from .25 [acronym:52c57ce4ec="Parts per Million"]ppm[/acronym:52c57ce4ec] to 1.5 [acronym:52c57ce4ec="Parts per Million"]ppm[/acronym:52c57ce4ec] and I wanted something that gave a few steps in between. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test goes from .25 to .5 to .75 and up like that which is why I like it better.

[Frisckey1]

I wouldn't use [acronym:765232e31f="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:765232e31f]/[acronym:765232e31f="Deionization"]DI[/acronym:765232e31f] water unless your keeping discus. Too much extra work. Unless your tap water sucks, like mine.

I like cannisters (I use a fluval 404) - but I also like tetratechs w/ internal heaters (HOBs). Its extremely effective in uniformly heating the water with a single 200w heater across a 6' tank. Pretty cool, [acronym:765232e31f="In my opinion"]IMO[/acronym:765232e31f]. The downside to tetratechs is you have to keep your eye on them for overspill. If you tend to let your filters get dirty, you WILL get overspill. I use my fluval in conjunction with 2 tetratech 500's in my 125 gallon tank and prefer the ease of my cannister, but the biofiltration of the tetratech (mine has 4 filterpads and a huge sponge). The cannister can be tricky for biofiltration at cleaning time. I like my biowheel too, its extremely effective in quick cycling but noisy and annoying to my kids at night

I choose the AP test kits. Specifically for ammonia the Salicylate based kit, since it will not show false positives in the presence of ammonia locking conditioners (I have ammonia from tap). I've not used an ammonia locking product in years since I've learned to manage my situation - but Nessler methods are just not as accurate in general...why take the chance? Test strips suck! ([acronym:765232e31f="In my opinion"]IMO[/acronym:765232e31f] )

[hforney]

Somewhat of a newbie myself. Last tank I had was 10 years ago. I recently set up a 55g. This time I did a lot of research. I purchased a couple of books and surfed the net. So far I am very pleased with my tank.

I used regular tap water with a declorinator.
I used the Tetra all in one test kit, although I may try the AP kit next. You might have to purchase more than one kit because they may not include all the tests you need to make. After I got the tetra test kit I had to order a kit to test for Nitrate.
I am using a Penguin 330 with 2 bio wheels [acronym:da6317abd9="Hang On Back"]HOB[/acronym:da6317abd9] and an Eheim Pro 2026. My water is crystal clear. If you order your filter online make sure you get media to go with it. Some filters come with a start up package and some don't. Get a thermometer that goes in the water not the stick on the glass type.

Keep searching the net and reading forums like this. I know it sure has helped me a lot this time!

[ClamKnuckle]

I was looking at canister filters and was wondering which one you guys would recommend

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...f=3055&subref=[acronym:89676caabc="Activated Carbon"]AC[/acronym:89676caabc]&N=2004+22777

I like that one for the Bio-Wheel

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...f=3055&subref=[acronym:89676caabc="Activated Carbon"]AC[/acronym:89676caabc]&N=2004+22777

i was looking at that one because i have read Eheim makes a good filter


Does the Eheim 2213 you guys use have the green tubing like the one pictured below? Does it stand out and look bad? I never used green in the tank before and am worried how that might look

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...f=3055&subref=[acronym:89676caabc="Activated Carbon"]AC[/acronym:89676caabc]&N=2004+22777

[hforney]

I am using the Eheim Pro II 2026. It does come with the green tubing. The tubing is not visable as it is behind the tank. Unless you decide not to install a background on the rear glass. The 2026 came with 2-return spray bar accessory kits to replace the one in the original box. The original return was designed to hang on the side of the tank. In a lot of cases this would not work. The accessory kit allows the return to be hung on the rear of the tank. The spray bar kit is a semi-clear plastic and looks great. The only green you will see is the intake tube with "Eheim" printed on it in bold white letters. I originally had the intake tube near the center of the tank. I have since relocated it about 6 inches from the corner of the tank on a 55g. I planted a sword plant in front of it and the problem of "the green" was solved. As far as the bio wheel I used an inexpensive, about $25, [acronym:36cf0f7dde="Hang On Back"]HOB[/acronym:36cf0f7dde] with bios. So I have 2 filters running and crystal clear water. I would not let the green intake tube sway you from buying an Eheim. On my last tank I had the 350 HOT Magnum. I must say the Eheim is a much better filter!

[hforney]

One more thing, if you are concerned about equipment being visible in your tank you might want to consider a totally submersible heater.

[hforney]

ClamKnuckle,

Your questions made me realize that I was not shipped the complete package with my Eheim 2026. I should have received a intake and return set. I instead received 2 return sets. Thus being the case I have notified my online supplier to have them ship me the installation set #1. When I receive this set and install it there will be no green tubing inside the tank. Hope this helps with your concern about the ugly green in the tank. You helped me out by asking your "green" question.

[Menagerie]

I love canister filters!! Once you know your water parameters, you can decide on which fish and what you may need to do to the tap water.