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Old 11-11-2005, 11:24 PM   #11
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How do I go about testing other than letting it set in a bucket of water? Should I then take the water to Petsmart to have it tested. I'm not sure what all I should be looking for. I have a native fish if that makes any differance. I definately don't want to harm my fish!
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:26 PM   #12
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Do you have a test kit? You should get one.

this one is good: http://bigalsonline.com/catalog/prod...tegory_id=2255

Test the water first. Add the antler and test every few days. See if something changes.
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:34 PM   #13
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I would also put an airstone in the bucket just to make sure the water doesn't go stail from sitting still and get that nasty skin on top. *bleck*
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:54 PM   #14
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Your right, I do need to get my own test kit. I spend more money than that just running back and forth to Petsmart in a week. I guess they suckerd me in with the free water testing. Everyone likes the word free.I plan to do alot with my aquarium within the next few weeks. Hopefully things test good. we'll soon see!
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Old 11-12-2005, 03:12 PM   #15
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Actually, I may have my hopes up high for nothing. I don't even know if antlers will sink or swim. If I follow through with the Idea due to thinking it would really be a great backwoods lake center piece, I will definitly parameter test it in a bucket of water first. My bass and I have came a long ways together! "If the test fails" Is there some type of aquarium epoxy that I could coat it with inorder to still use it in the tank???
Sorry for so many questions, I feel I'm on to something big!
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:54 PM   #16
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It might disintigrate in water. I know that dear antlers will.
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:06 PM   #17
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Oh Yeh, I never knew that. Does make since! I guess there wouldn't be any other way than to epoxy cover it. I know very little about epoxys.
Does epoxy or any other non-toxic aquarium safe glue come in a clear coat? And in time doesn't become brittle or weathers to a gray tone.
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Old 11-20-2005, 01:11 AM   #18
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Would this maybe help?

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/...i_Bogwood.html

The poly-varnish method is as follows: -
1. Thoroughly wash the bogwood under a tap, sterilise if necessary, and then leave to dry for a day or two.

2. Visit your local D.I.Y. store and acquire a product called 'Polyurethane varnish paint.' This pure clear varnish will lock in the bogwood tannin. Please note yacht varnish is also sold for this process but this should be avoided as it will harm all types of aquatic livestock. (It is actually manufactured to prevent mussels attaching themselves to boat hulls).

3. Use the poly-varnish once then leave to dry for a day, and repeat this for another two days (three days altogether). This makes the bogwood airtight.

The effects are no fungus, no release of tannin and no worries about alteration of pH.

As with all things that are good at face value there is a setback with this process in that the bogwood can no longer produce microorganisms or 'lignin'. Lignin is particularly important to many species of Loricarins (catfishes, particularly Panaque species) as it aids their digestion and meets certain nutritional requirements science does still not fully understand. Microorganisms add beneficial bacteria to the gut processes of many Loricarins also.
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Old 11-23-2005, 06:15 PM   #19
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Thanks alot lonewolfblue, I wish I could find this stuff on the web! I am so under educated on the different types of products that are non-toxic to aquariums. Things such as bonding glues, paints, clays etc.
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