200 gallon FOWLR stocking advice

[VinnyLLU]

Hi everyone, I just got into saltwater last year, but I've been in the hobby for almost 20 years.

I just posted a link to my last SW tank in the previous thread, and have decided to go bigger.

My new setup will consist of a 84x18x30 200 gallon FOWLR system.

I plan to stock the tank with the following

-1 Picasso trigger
-1 blue tang
-1 yellow tang
-1 fox face
-1 SF eel

Please let me know if this is ok as far as compatibility and bio load is concerned. I'm doing a wet dry filter with a reef octopus protein skimmer.thanks for any assistance!!

 

[Triggersgalore]

Should be fine just remember to add the trigger last as he is more aggressive but list looks great!

 

[huma-huma]

Id reconsider the wet/dry if possible. You'd prob see better results with a refugium or sump setup. Other than that the stock list looks great, could even add a few more fish in there

 

[VinnyLLU]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Can you give me more info why a sump is preferred over bio balls in a wet dry? I know refugiums can provide nutrients to the tank so they are beneficial for reefs, but I'm not sure it would be much more beneficial for FOWLR. If you can elaborate that would be good!

 

[huma-huma]

I can give you a much info as i know. Sumps are more effective in that they 1) utilize every inch of the designated sump tank, and 2) offer a very simple and straight forward design layout that includes areas for each specific need. Also they cut out the hit and miss reliability that is bioballs. Refugiums have all the same benefits as a sump but are 1) a more natural form of filtration. 2) offer a dedicated area for pods to populate (hence the refug- in the name) also it can serve as a safe haven for any new fish or a fish thats being bullied. They also add to the overall impact of the tank. Wet/drys fall short in the fact that 1) they dont utilize all possible bioball space (its impossible to ensure constant water flow over each individual ball) and they also can load up on nitrates and cause nitrate creep, which is a case when your trates continue to rise bo matter how many water changes you do. Wet drys are better suited for freshwater setups imo

 

[VinnyLLU]

Hey Huma,

Thanks again. Couple of more questions for you about going the refugium/sump route:

1.) How deep should my sand bed be?
2.) Which species of algae are best to grow?
3.) Is there a specific model of sump that is preferred? Id rather buy than make my own.

Thanks!!

 

[huma-huma]

The depth of your sand bed will affect what benefits you see from it. If you run a bit shallow (a few inches 2-3) it wont be a functional sand bed like the deep sand bed, but it is easier to clean, you dont have to worry about accidentally disturbing it and harming the tank. You also can clean it pretty regularly. Now for the deep sand bed (dsb) dsp's run several inches deep (5+) and offer the final step in the nitrogen cycle. A dsb will convert nitrates into nitrogen, which can then be released from the water through surface gas exchange. Downsides to dsb include you dont want to distrub the sand because it can release toxins and also kill off the good bacteria growing in the sand. Dsb may foster algae growth to some extent as well. I personally prefer a dsb because of the great landscaping it offers. As for sumps/refugiums, all of them are pretty close in design but keep one thing in mind, you want to keep the skimmer as far from the return pump as possible, this should prevent microbubbles. As for size id go somewhere from 1/3 to 1/2 the display tank size. As for algae id look at macro algae (caulerpa, chaeto, etc) each one offers its own benefits.

 

[huma-huma]

Also be prepared to spend several hundred dollars on a premade sump/refugium. I understand you said youd prefer to buy than make your own, but a comparable diy would cost somewhere between $10-$15 plus the price of a tank