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Old 03-24-2013, 08:14 PM   #11
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Sorry yeah my first time too and I'm catching hell lol
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:19 PM   #12
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I am pretty certain that melafix is garbage, looks like it is doing more harm than good. My already sick clown may have been on his way out but 1 hour into adding melafix he died? So I would recommend staying away. Also, my healthy clown is acting strange still. He hides, jerks in a weird motion from time to time, acts lethargic.. He was 100% fine until I added this crap to the water. I am beyond pissed, if anything happens to this second fish I will be the one to blame. Most of these "medications" don't work, I dont know why I would have thought this time would have been any better. All I can hope to do now, is lower the stress around him and pray. I am hoping that the carbon I added back to the tank, and the 25% water change I did yesterday will start to help. I am wondering now if I should do another 25% change again tonight.

API MelaFix = Garbage
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:01 PM   #13
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I had issues with my clowns fins when I added him. I also tried melafix and I believe it killed my firefish. Anyway, I would recommend a water change to remove some of it. My clown has lymphocystis which shows up as white lumps on the fins and gills when stressed. It caused his fins to degrade but with time they can work through it. It is viral so it is never gone but the symptoms will only show up if stressed or in poor water conditions. I don't know if that's what your guy has but it's worth looking at IMO.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:40 PM   #14
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I don't believe its lymphocystis. The fish that just passed yesterday showed a very small spot of white on his body a week ago. Then that spot where it was looked like the scales on his body rubbed off. The white almost looked like the effect a human gets when peeling from sunburn, that slight white ripple in the skin. It wasnt very noticeable. Then all went to hell shortly after. Fins clamped and breathing trouble. his appetite was good until yesterday, when he passed. I really dont know what to make of it, seems like soon as you lookup sick clownfish everyone is screaming brooklynella. Funny thing is, I went to two fish shops and neither heard of the "clownfish killer".
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:50 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jaycapz View Post
I don't believe its lymphocystis. The fish that just passed yesterday showed a very small spot of white on his body a week ago. Then that spot where it was looked like the scales on his body rubbed off. The white almost looked like the effect a human gets when peeling from sunburn, that slight white ripple in the skin. It wasnt very noticeable. Then all went to hell shortly after. Fins clamped and breathing trouble. his appetite was good until yesterday, when he passed. I really dont know what to make of it, seems like soon as you lookup sick clownfish everyone is screaming brooklynella. Funny thing is, I went to two fish shops and neither heard of the "clownfish killer".
I hate to say this but if they have never heard of this disease, they are probably not good shops to be dealing with. Brooklynella has killed more clownfish than probably any other disease while I was in the biz.
What we finally found to be a help was to give the fish a freshwater bath before placing the fish in a qt/hospital tank with repeated treatments of "Quickcure", which is a malachite green and formaldehyde combination, for approx 2 weeks. This was followed with a treatment week of an antibiotic to ward off any secondary infections caused by the parasite.
You might find this aticle of some help: Brooklynellosis

As for the rest of your fish, your tank is infected and the other fish will most likely have a bout with the parasite. I'd suggest you FW bathe and qt all the fish for now and leave the tank fishless so the secondary stage of the parasite have no hosts.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:30 AM   #16
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This is good information. Its a shame because the shop I went to is a very known local shop, I was shocked that I found more on google.

This disease is disgusting, it moves to rapidly and looks painful to the fish. He's shown signs for roughly 3 days now. Yesterday was the first day I saw a sort of white'ish coating now on the body, its very very slight and almost hard to see unless the light hits him. I don't know if its to late, he ate yesterday but with this disease I dont think it matters. He's still swimming and roaming the tank, but jerking around like hes being bitten (only way I can explain it). I will try the f/w dip tonight, I was afraid to do it last night. I am also picking up quick cure or what I believe is a similar formalin fix. Is quickcure a dip? I am kind of scared to keep dipping him from container to container like that. I also dont know if I have enough supplies to keep that many bowls heated and what not. I am afraid to stress him out, but either way if I dont do the multiple dips he'll die anyway.. right.

Luckily there is no other fish in the tank, it was just the two of them. Only two hermit crabs plus the clown are in there. How long should the tank remain empty, I have heard 4 weeks, some say 6 weeks. To be honest, I am so discouraged from this I may just go to freshwater. This was a very painful experience.

Thanks so far for this info!
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:31 PM   #17
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Another issue, my qt that I just setup with heater is only getting to 75-76 degrees. The heater range stated 76-80. The (DT) tank is at 78. Moving the fish in there after f/w bath, will that shock him? I'm limited right now as I'm at work and really nervous about my every move at this point.
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:20 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jaycapz View Post
This is good information. Its a shame because the shop I went to is a very known local shop, I was shocked that I found more on google.

This disease is disgusting, it moves to rapidly and looks painful to the fish. He's shown signs for roughly 3 days now. Yesterday was the first day I saw a sort of white'ish coating now on the body, its very very slight and almost hard to see unless the light hits him. I don't know if its to late, he ate yesterday but with this disease I dont think it matters. He's still swimming and roaming the tank, but jerking around like hes being bitten (only way I can explain it). I will try the f/w dip tonight, I was afraid to do it last night. I am also picking up quick cure or what I believe is a similar formalin fix. Is quickcure a dip? I am kind of scared to keep dipping him from container to container like that. I also dont know if I have enough supplies to keep that many bowls heated and what not. I am afraid to stress him out, but either way if I dont do the multiple dips he'll die anyway.. right.

Luckily there is no other fish in the tank, it was just the two of them. Only two hermit crabs plus the clown are in there. How long should the tank remain empty, I have heard 4 weeks, some say 6 weeks. To be honest, I am so discouraged from this I may just go to freshwater. This was a very painful experience.

Thanks so far for this info!
Welcome to the growing pains of keeping marines. If you think you have it rough, my first saltwater tank had a slate bottom and a metal frame because all glass aquariums didn't exist back then. I got fish to live about 6 months in that tank but in my last marine tank, I had in it fish that I had had for 3, 7 & 8 years. If I hadn't needed to move, who knows how long those fish would have lived? Fish keeping is a constant learning experience. Don't be discouraged, be enlightened. With the proper care, many marine fish will live very long times.

That all being said, there are a few ways to handle this depending on how much $$ you want to spend. The most expensive, tear down the tank, bleach everything and restart. You can use Live Sand so you have an instantly cycled aquarium. Be mindfull to not overload the tank with fish once reset up and keep a eye on your ammonia level as your bioload builds.
Next way is to leave the tank devoid of fish. It's not the most pleasant or as quick but cheaper than a restart. Timeframes vary depending on who you talk to but this parasite is nasty and the longer the better. I've read some reports of it showing back up after 6 weeks as well as reports of leaving the tank barren for 10-12 weeks. One way that can help cut this time down is to have a UV sterilizer going as well as a protein skimmer with ozonizer. This way, with proper filtration, the parasite's free swimming stage has a better chance of being killed while it searches for a host.

As for multiple dips being stressfull, think of it like an itch on your back. You feel more relief if someone is scratching your back. That's the same as the FW dip. It kills off the parasite so it relieves the itch. Be mindfull of the temps and ph and the fish should be fine. QuickCure can be either a dip or a tank med. Follow the directions on the bottle.

As for your heater, I'd have to say it's too small for the tank. The proper sized heater should have the tank to temp in about 1 hour +/-. You don't want to put the dipped fish into a tank with a lower temp than what it's coming from. You want the new temp the same or higher by a degree or 2.

What really needs to be discussed here is why the fish got sick in the first place. Usually, water conditions not being good bring on diseases. You may need to reexamine your maintanence schedule and filtering setup. They may have been the cause of the water situation which brought on this condition. Just saying...

Lastly, FW fish have their own set of diseases that are just as nasty as marine diseases. The choice to change water types shold not be made because of "ease of treating" diseases. Recently, I lost a whole bank of Bettas I was raising when I got a new fish from a breeder who was going out of business. I used every known med in my arsonal and still could not save my fish. So you see, it happens in FW as well. Bleach was my only solution (no pun intented )

Hope this helps
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:12 PM   #19
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Just discouraging thats all, it feels as though Freshwater has greater upside (minus the nicer looking fish).

Anyway, I am more concerned with his strength. I dont know if the FW dip will do more harm than good. If you think it will help, i'll do it. I just hope the stress isn't enough to do more harm than good. So I am torn on just putting him directly into the QT and start medicating, or FW dip him and then medicate. I want to do whatever will increase his chances.

My gf ran out and grabbed a better heater for him, and the quick cure so i'll start soon as I get home. I'm also hoping the quick cure (the one should found is a stay in take type solution, not dip) works against this thing.
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:41 PM   #20
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Just discouraging thats all, it feels as though Freshwater has greater upside (minus the nicer looking fish).

Anyway, I am more concerned with his strength. I dont know if the FW dip will do more harm than good. If you think it will help, i'll do it. I just hope the stress isn't enough to do more harm than good. So I am torn on just putting him directly into the QT and start medicating, or FW dip him and then medicate. I want to do whatever will increase his chances.

My gf ran out and grabbed a better heater for him, and the quick cure so i'll start soon as I get home. I'm also hoping the quick cure (the one should found is a stay in take type solution, not dip) works against this thing.
My thoughts are that if the fish was strong enough to want to eat, he's strong enough for the dip. You just need to watch his reaction. If he looks too stressed in the dip, take him out and put into the QT tank.
With Brooklynella, doing nothing will kill the fish faster than stressing him for a minute in freshwater. At least that's what I have found to be true.

As for the upside of freshwater, in truth, you go through exactly the same biological creation as saltwater. The water chemistry is also the same sans the salinity. The values are just different. I think it's just that the fish are cheaper so most don't think about the dollars lost when they make a mistake. It's all just a learning curve. When I was in the retail pet biz, I would tell my customers that they could set up a SW tank cheap or they could set it up right. Cheap takes a lot of work. Right eliminates a lot of the work and frustration. Right also costs more because you need more equipment. Truth is, you can keep marines doing either way IF you stay on top of things. I've successfully done it both ways. Then again, I'm a fishaholic and willing to do what needs to be done. Not everyone has my available time or abilities.

If we can get you past this episode, keep this in mind: use of a qt tank should be manditory on your to do list for a new fish. Any fish you purchase, win from a club event, or even given to you by a friend, needs to be quarentined before being put in you main tank. Skipping this step will lead to more situations like you are facing. Using this step will reduce greatly the chances of you ever going through this again. Once should be enough don't you think?

Fell free to PM me if you need more help.
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