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Rmckoy

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
919
What's the difference between T5 fixtures and regular fluorescent fixtures ?
Do they use the same ballast and fixture ?
Are T5 just as good as metal halide ?
 
What's the difference between T5 fixtures and regular fluorescent fixtures ?
Do they use the same ballast and fixture ?
Are T5 just as good as metal halide ?

I'll take a stab at this. Regular fluorescent fixtures won't support much corals at all. T5 HO (high output) are great for coral growth and many use them in conjunction with metal halides and have great success. I wouldn't say T5's are as good as metal halides. Some of it is preference. I'm not a light guru and hopefully more experienced members will offer help. I have LED's.

I think T5's are great. If your doing a FOWLR then lighting isn't as important IMO.
 
Are they they same fixture?

Just different bulbs ?
 
Well I didn't do much but your very welcome

I recently bought a T5 fixture .
It has 6 bulbs .
The day lights are 3 white and 1 blue bulb .
And the night lights are 2 blue .
How long should I leave day lights on ?
Should I run the blue night lights all the time or just at night ?
 
I would say that high output T5's are every bit as good as metal halides, and penetrate just as well.
To answer your question I must first as if you have photosynthetic creatures in the tank. If you have corals/clams/anemones, I would suggest you run all lamps at least 8 hours. they should be on a timer so that there is a definite night time period as well. You should run the night lights (if you want to) an hour before and an hour after all lamps are lit, just to give the tank a morning/evening transition. This is personal preference though, because this transition does nothing to benefit photosynthetic creatures.
bottom line- all lights on for at least 8 hours, and all lights off at some point during the night.
 
I would say that high output T5's are every bit as good as metal halides, and penetrate just as well.
To answer your question I must first as if you have photosynthetic creatures in the tank. If you have corals/clams/anemones, I would suggest you run all lamps at least 8 hours. they should be on a timer so that there is a definite night time period as well. You should run the night lights (if you want to) an hour before and an hour after all lamps are lit, just to give the tank a morning/evening transition. This is personal preference though, because this transition does nothing to benefit photosynthetic creatures.
bottom line- all lights on for at least 8 hours, and all lights off at some point during the night.

There is nothing in the tank yet.
I just purchased the skimmer last weekend ,
And wanted lights and skimmer before adding anything .
All parameters are good .
It has been over a month since it has cycled .
Back to the lights .
Total darkness is ok ?
I read something to the affect saying total darkness isn't good cause in nature the moon lights the water .
Unless you are deeper there will never be total darkness
 
That's ridiculous. Total darkness is fine.

I have read allot of your post and you seam to be very knowledgable .
Protein skimming :
I bought a coralife 125 used .
I finally got it to work without overflowing by making the intake deeper then suggested ,
I put a shut off on the intake but haven't had to restrict it yet .
It's been running for a few days but having a issue with allot of micro bubbles in my tank .
Yes it is a Hang on .
What would you suggest ?
And one more question .
Have you heard of the vodka method ?
I heard vinegar and sugar will do the same .
 
Give the skimmer some time to settle in. Yes, I've lowered nutrient levels with a carbon source like vodka before, but if you stay consistent with water changes and feed reasonably, you shouldn't have a need for any dosing.
 
I have read allot of your post and you seam to be very knowledgable .
Protein skimming :
I bought a coralife 125 used .
I finally got it to work without overflowing by making the intake deeper then suggested ,
I put a shut off on the intake but haven't had to restrict it yet .
It's been running for a few days but having a issue with allot of micro bubbles in my tank .
Yes it is a Hang on .
What would you suggest ?
And one more question .
Have you heard of the vodka method ?
I heard vinegar and sugar will do the same .

Mr X is great! He's very knowledgable! He's answers a ton of my questions. This forum is great if you're new to the salt water scene.
 
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Mr X is great! He's very knowledgable! He's answers a ton of my questions. This forum is great if you're new to the salt water scene.

I am new to saltwater .
I did have a 30 gal setup 15 years ago but didn't know anything about the hobby and jumped in .
This time I researched allot asked a few questions and want to have a healthy thriving reef .
I am starting with FOWLR and will grow from there .
I finally added my first occupants over the weekend .
10 blue leg hermit crabs .
Next weekend 10 more, a few clown fish .
What would a sand sifting goby be like ?
Is it too early for him ?
The LFS has anemones on sale and thinking I want one .
 
I am new to saltwater .
I did have a 30 gal setup 15 years ago but didn't know anything about the hobby and jumped in .
This time I researched allot asked a few questions and want to have a healthy thriving reef .
I am starting with FOWLR and will grow from there .
I finally added my first occupants over the weekend .
10 blue leg hermit crabs .
Next weekend 10 more, a few clown fish .
What would a sand sifting goby be like ?
Is it too early for him ?
The LFS has anemones on sale and thinking I want one .

I would advise against an anemone as a beginner. They require just as much attention to detail as a reef aquarium does. Most would advise to have your aquarium stable at least six months and many as long as a year before trying one. I'd also wait on any sand-sifting species fo anything as they can sometimes be finicky, unless you're referring to a watchman goby. they are generally pretty hearty, but ask to see it eat before you buy.

What size tank do you have? I would keep only two clownfish unless you have a very large (150 gallon plus) tank. All clowns are born make with a dominiant fish turnign female. They tend to form a pair and then will not allow other clowns in their territory (generally the whole tank). In the tank, that means the less aggressive fish end up beaten up.

Please note, clowns do not NEED an anemone. Many captive bred clowns have never seen one and have no idea what to do with it. Many choose other items to be their host. I have an ocellaris clown that has taken up residence in a deresa clam, and ignores a long tentacle anemone about six inches away from the clam. In another tank, I have a cinammon clown who used to live in the long tentalce anemone, until I removed it when I put a hadoni anemone in that tank. I actively avoided the hadoni for at least three months until one day it just started cozying up to it.

Finally, whatever you decide to do, go slow with adding livestock and quarantine fish before putting them in your display. Almost everyone on the forum has gone through a round with crypt (marine ich). I'd say it's the most common actual disease in a saltwater aquarium. It's very treatable, but not with any inverebrates, live rock, or sand in the aquarium. It's a whole ot easier to prevent a mass infection in your display by treating one or two fish in isolation.
 
I would advise against an anemone as a beginner. They require just as much attention to detail as a reef aquarium does. Most would advise to have your aquarium stable at least six months and many as long as a year before trying one. I'd also wait on any sand-sifting species fo anything as they can sometimes be finicky, unless you're referring to a watchman goby. they are generally pretty hearty, but ask to see it eat before you buy.

What size tank do you have? I would keep only two clownfish unless you have a very large (150 gallon plus) tank. All clowns are born make with a dominiant fish turnign female. They tend to form a pair and then will not allow other clowns in their territory (generally the whole tank). In the tank, that means the less aggressive fish end up beaten up.

Please note, clowns do not NEED an anemone. Many captive bred clowns have never seen one and have no idea what to do with it. Many choose other items to be their host. I have an ocellaris clown that has taken up residence in a deresa clam, and ignores a long tentacle anemone about six inches away from the clam. In another tank, I have a cinammon clown who used to live in the long tentalce anemone, until I removed it when I put a hadoni anemone in that tank. I actively avoided the hadoni for at least three months until one day it just started cozying up to it.

Finally, whatever you decide to do, go slow with adding livestock and quarantine fish before putting them in your display. Almost everyone on the forum has gone through a round with crypt (marine ich). I'd say it's the most common actual disease in a saltwater aquarium. It's very treatable, but not with any inverebrates, live rock, or sand in the aquarium. It's a whole ot easier to prevent a mass infection in your display by treating one or two fish in isolation.

Taking it slow seams to be the way I have been going so far .
When I said a few clown I only want 2 but not sure yet .
I know they will choose what to host and doesn't have to be anemones but they are nice.
All my parameters have been good .
I know I need more or a clean up crew.
I like crabs , and was thinking maybe 10-20 more over time .
I have a 70 gal
It has about 60-75 lbs of live rock and 40 lbs live sand .
I am looking for close to 100 lbs more rock .
But I know I have a anxious daughter who has been bugging for 2 months to buy a fish . Lol
 
+100^^^ great advice. Start out slow. There a a ton of people that rush an end up losing their tanks due to inpatients I've had my tank running for about 8 months. I have the intentions of it being fowlr, but recently added a handful of zoas and polys. Go slow an follow forum. Keep us posted with pics.
 
Give the skimmer some time to settle in. Yes, I've lowered nutrient levels with a carbon source like vodka before, but if you stay consistent with water changes and feed reasonably, you shouldn't have a need for any dosing.

Hi mr x
I have a few questions .
Everything seams to be going great
I added 10 blue legged hermit crabs I didn't think they were that active .
I am a little concerned with my parameters after I started carbon dosing with vinegar .
Nitrate : 15ppm
Phosphate : 0
PH : 8.4
KH : 14
Gravity: 1.023
Ammonia and nitrite are both 0 ppm
I am planning on purchasing 10 more crabs this weekend ,
2 clown fish
1 anemone
Are these parameters acceptable for what I want to add ?
I am thinking cause of the algae growth I want to add a sand sifting goby .
I seen one in the LFS and watching him eat the sand and sift it through his gills . Seamed very beneficial .
Would this be too much of a bio load at once ?
Thanks again .
 
Why do you think you need to dose vinegar? I would just get on a weekly water change regimen and enjoy your tank.
What algae is growing already? Brown diatoms? This is a natural occurrence and will come and go, goby or not.
You know, with just a FOWLR, you don't need to run the lights much. Fish only need to see to eat. You can limit the algae growth by limiting the light it's getting.

If you want to add 3 fish, I would add the 2 clowns, and then wait a couple weeks on the third fish. As far as the crabs, you can add them all at once. They don't bring much of a bio load.
Are you sure you have enough food to sustain 20 crabs? What size tank is this?


I also, would suggest waiting on the anemone for a while.
 
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