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Old 05-29-2013, 07:32 AM   #11
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Also yo add,all the fish seemed to get on with no problems which did surprise me! My damsel is tiny and tends to stick to its little spot,id arranged lots of rock the tank was full of hiding places.i never saw any tatted fins prior to first sign of infection................i hope this info has helped any of you in helping me cheers.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:17 AM   #12
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If there are spots, it is likely Ich. The fins are usually not related to that though. The cloudy eyes are almost always due to bad water conditions.

Is it possible to treat the fish that you still have alive? Is it possible to treat in a QT? I wouldn't just write them all off. You mentioned trying to treat...what have you done?

If there is something in the tank, then 8 weeks fallow should allow everything to die off due to not having a host. There would be no cycling involved though. Your tank should be cycled or your parameters would be off.

I haven't done the calculations, but that tank does not sound large enough for the tang, wrasse or angel. Small tanks for fish like that will cause stress. Stress opens fish up to all the nasty stuff out there.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:28 PM   #13
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I tried an invertebrate friendly,dye treatment.my quarantine tank is now houseing my healthy fish the ones that saved.
Im not sure why you think my tank is not big enough for a wrasse or tang,the tanks massive and ive seen people keep bigger fish in much smaller tanks. Its 450 litres not including the 120 litre sump.
I dont know what else to say really,the parameters are all perfect, but their eys are cloudy and the emperor is looseing colour fast! The spots come and go! And the fins are really tatty now but how can i treat if i dont know whats wrong!? If the cloudy eyes are from poor water quality,then why are the tests all fine? I just dont know what to do as my quarantine tank is now full of healthy fish and i cant treat with copper as it will kill my live rock.im at a dead end.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:46 PM   #14
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You could take the live rock out and put it in a bucket with tank water using an aerator or cheap filter for water movement. Then you could treat the tank with the fish. The live rock are their own filtration system so even a cheap Powerhead would keep them just fine.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:49 PM   #15
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Its a tricky situation when you don't have a QT to go with copper or Hyposalinity and then leave the infected tank fallow to let whatever it is die off. That works. Anything else is questionable. Any possibility you could get another tank to use for QT?

Regarding the tank size...your tank sounds like a 120 gallon. Most Tangs do well in a 6' long tank. 4' does not give as much room to cruise around. Its a generally accepted rule that a lot of people argue about. I tend to feel it works after seeing countless posts from people confused why their Tang is not doing well and the tank is always too small. The Emperor gets big...220 gallons minimum. The Long Nose is right at the minimum tank size. Smaller than suggested tanks obviously don't kill fish, but the fish tend to have eventual issues.

How are you testing your water? The cloudy eyes is usually poor water conditions. If your parameters are good, then I'm not sure.

White spots will come and go. Ich has that as part of its life cycle. The parasite actually drops off, goes into rock and sand, multiplies and stays around until it is killed or does from not having a host.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airgoose2222 View Post
You could take the live rock out and put it in a bucket with tank water using an aerator or cheap filter for water movement. Then you could treat the tank with the fish. The live rock are their own filtration system so even a cheap Powerhead would keep them just fine.
That's probably not a bad idea. Go with hypo, not copper as treatment. The end cost probably is less than losing more fish.
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:27 PM   #17
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Well I've been using a nutrafin master test kit which cost me a bit and contains all separate tests for nitrate,nitrite,ammonia,carbonate hardness,calcium,phosphate,ph and iron chelated and none.................every parameter is perfect!
Again there were no trouble in that tank before i bought that puffer.
No stress that i could see.the whole scene was very tranquil and i was really proud of the habitat i created.
Its definitely a fungal infection,maybe fin-rot the clowns,both of which are dead now had like white cotton wool allover them and 1 white over eye.
Thats a good idea with the rock! If i managed to save these fish.would their fins stay tatty? And should i use a copper teeatment or hypo salinity?
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:08 PM   #18
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This is going to inspire debate, but go get a UV sterlizer. Something over 20 watts preferrably and ran at about 200 gallons per hour. With the situation as it stands, this will help give the fish a fighting chance by killing parasites faster than they can reproduce and overwhelm the host fish.

After installing the UV, keep the fish eating and hold off on water changes. The system needs to remain stable. Constant water changes can leave the parameters in a state of flux and add to the stress imposed on the fish.
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