New media for Wet/Dry... Should I? What with?

[GatorDrew]

Alright, as I mentioned in this post: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=96626

My tank is having a "new life." I recently sold back all my predator fish because I wanted to get more colorful, smaller fish. The groupers were cool and all, but they just grow too big for my 90G.

To tell you the truth, I'm a bit scared. The groupers were so hearty that it was probably close to impossible to kill them.

Right now, I'm kind of recycling my tank. I did about a 45% water change and just letting it get back up and running. All the live rock and soft corals are still doing amazing. Otherwise, my tank is fish-less.

So... I'm thinking that this is my opportunity to really make my setup better. There's no worry of killing fish

Right now in my wet/dry I have "stock" bioballs.

Here are the options running through my mind. Starting with the least costly...

1- Take 50% out and wash them

2- Take 50-75% out and replace them with better bio balls. Something listed here: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/NavResults.cfm?N=2004+113804

Not really sure what to get there though. Cell-Pore BioMedia is recommended, but really don't know where it's placed...? You then have the CoralLife balls, BioMate, etc. Based on name only, I'd say CoralLife is the better option.

3- Get live rock rubble. Obliviously will cost the most. I've heard some cons/pros.

So, hoping someone could tell me...

If I were to get new bioballs, what would be best? That's a ~$15 change. Or, should I just scrap the entire idea and go with LR rubble?

 

[Marc118]

3.

Bioballs are OK...but if not cleaned enough they will cause your nitrates to be high.

If keeping bioballs id say a 50% change ( once every few months? someone chime in ) would work.

 

[GatorDrew]

If I do liverock rubble... it's just as simple as removing all the bioballs and then replacing it with rock right?

Come to think of it... it may not be that all expensive. I mean, I don't need "premium" live rock by any means. It can be very basic stuff... you know, the $3.99/lb stash at the LFS. LOL.

... also, I've had the same bioballs for the past year. All critical levels are good; however, I do always have "some" nitrates

 

[melosu58]

Or, should I just scrap the entire idea and go with LR rubble?

This would be my suggestion. LR rubble is much better and is not as much a nitrate factory as bioballs. I`m getting ready to change mine to LR rubble.

 

[GatorDrew]

Any other opinions?

 

[Ziggy953]

What else are you planning on doing with this tank? Other corals or just mainly the softies? I would get rid of the bio-balls completely and go with the LR rubble. Add a fuge to the system wouldn't be bad either. It all depends on what you plan to do with the tank.

 

[lando]

Any other opinions?

yah...how about using LR rubble?
Sorry, I am a huge fan of LR rubble for sumps and it is, IMHO, the very best filter media out there. You make have to modify the wet/dry a bit. I tok mine and removed the tray the bioballs sat on so the rubble would be submerged fully in water. I have some pics of mine in my gallery if you areinterested.

 

[GatorDrew]

Where did you get all the LR rubble? your LFS?

Thanks for the pictures... !

 

[Marc118]

Just go to the LFS, buy a rock, and smash the crap out of it. Thats what I did...lol...

 

[GatorDrew]

LOLOLOL! At $3.99/lb of their cheap LR...

lando - forgot to ask - how many pounds is in there? Looks like you have about the same size as mine. Since the LR needs to be fully submerged... it looks like I have this space:

7" tall
8.5" wide & length

I'm worried though. What if the water level in the sump drops overnight... thus leaving some of the LR unsubmerged. Would that cause any harm?

 

[Ziggy953]

Usually the water drop is in the return chamber of your wet/dry not the first chamber. You shoudln't have that problem in the first section of your filter.

 

[Marc118]

Yep...your intake level should never drop...

 

[GatorDrew]

Ummm... please don't tell me I got ripped off by my LFS with the wet/dry TOO. (See my post about the protein skimmer.)

This is the wet/dry that came with the tank:
http://www.theaquariumonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=775

I have the one on the left.

I've taken out the sponge to give me more room for the protein skimmer, pumps, and heater.

Anyway, when water evaporates from the wet/dry it evaporates water from the entire wet/dry (not just the other side w/out bioballs).

 

[Ziggy953]

I see...that isn't like the one I have...your water flows from one into the other without a baffle. Yeah that sucks....I have a solution for you though...that is depending on what kind of space you have under your tank.....

 

[GatorDrew]

I got enough room for a 10g tank underneath. It would take some reconfiguring... but I'm up for ideas. As said, since my tank is fishless right now I'm up for making some drastic changes.

 

[Marc118]

I dont see how that is possible, you have a constant rate of water being flowed into the sump, the intake chamber should never change. The only place you should see evap is the far right chamber.

But did you pay $170 for that? People need to check out the DIY forum more often!!!

 

[GatorDrew]

Ok - I feel like an idiot. LOL.

What would be a good solution?

 

[Ziggy953]

Out a bulkhead on your wet/dry on the return end...about 3" down from the top and plumb that over to a 10g tank and put your return pump in that...this will keep your wet/dry full of water and you will se evaporation on the 10g. I did this for my setup and it works very well. Also get a working level of water in the 10g, enough to handle power down and flowback from pumps and drianage from your overflow.

Here are some pics of my setup.

I hope this helps you out!!

 

[Marc118]

Nice ziggy!

That would work great if his wet dry had no baffles, but in the pic I see some.

Please excuse my handwriting!!! I guess thats the lazy artist in me

 

[Ziggy953]

That is true..but the problem is that the water leve willnot be high enough on the left to keep his rock under water. If he puts the bulkhead as I suggested, gets rid of the bio-balls and the shelf they are sitting on the water leve will stay at about where you drew the line "water line" and thus keep his LR rubble under water. I agree that the evaporation should only be seen in the last section on the right were the pump is. As small a return area as that is I would suggest doing this just to keep your SG more stable. I expect you are having to top off almost every day otherwise your pump would be out of water.