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Old 11-18-2011, 03:44 AM   #11
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Yes a refractometer is a necessity. I have one, much better than a hydrometer.

Also, in re-reading your post, if the tank isn't drilled you'll either have to drill it or use an overflow box to get the water down to the sump.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:55 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jjamontan View Post
There is a guy that makes YouTube videos that you can learn tons from. Just search NewYork Steelo, if you go to his channel he has a video about everything.
Thanks for this, I started watching them last night. I've decided to do up a 'blue print' type document, with EVERYTHING in it before even adding water. I'm going to decide all of the factors, down to my livestock and then I'll start the project. The planning is almost as fun...well...I woudln't know ... but I'm assuming lol
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:05 AM   #13
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Oookkk lol, let me start by saying its nice to see you've obviously done some research before just diving in head first like a lot of people do. You're setting yourself up for a successful tank.

I'll start by telling you what you don't need from your list.

A lid, you actually don't need one. I don't use one on my tank, and I've kept fish notorious for jumping like a firefish with no problems.
Dechlorinator, if you're going to use a RO or a RO/DI unit ( which you've listed and is necessary) you won't need dechlorinator.

Metal halides, T5 HO lights can be just as powerful, half the cost, and more efficient. LED's are another option. If you get the right units the initial cost is steep but no replacement bulbs, even more efficient and again with the right fixture you'll have no stocking limitations(same can be said with T5 HO).

Air pumps, not necessary, powerheads will give you plenty of gas exchange.

Addatives, if you keep up with your waterchanges you won't need to dose anything. All the calcium and trace elements your tank needs is in your salt mix.

Everything else looks good. A sump is bascially a tank that goes underneath your DT (display tank) that adds extra volume to help stabalize your parameters, it hides your equipment ( heaters, skimmer, ect.) You don't want powerheads in the sump. They go in the DT to give it flow and to help with gas exchange. It can also hold an area called a refugium or fuge. Which is a place to grow macroalgae, to help keep nitrates in check, and pods. Pods are a good part of the CUC and food for some fish.

I think I covered everything lol. Though I'm sure someone will come along and mention something I forgot.

Thanks so mich for your input! Greatly appreciated. I have some questions.

If there is no lid, then how do you set up the lights? How do you stop fish from jumping? Could you upload a pic for me so I can get a better idea?

Please define Pods and CUC (I'm fresh off the boat into the pond...sorry )

OOOOhhhhh I'm getting excited!!! And I haven't even hit a LFS yet hehehe...although I don't really trust those up-selling yuppies! (Sorry to any LFSers here)

I've read (and now watched) so much in the last few days. I now know about everything nitrites, nitrates, CO2, different kinds of algae, sumps, HOB and drilled overflows, LR, DR, LS, DS, seeding, microorganisms, refugims, hospital tanks...the list is endless and I'm loving it all...Hi! My name is Jessica and I'm an ... what am I? hehehe
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:13 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by BallinCrew10 View Post
Yes a refractometer is a necessity. I have one, much better than a hydrometer.

Also, in re-reading your post, if the tank isn't drilled you'll either have to drill it or use an overflow box to get the water down to the sump.
Do you know of anyone who has, or have you yourself, used a HOB overflow? After reading about the two choices, I note that the drilled overflow is the obvious better choice, but I don't think I want to drill my tank. Plus, if I get ubber serious about this then I'll buy a pre-drilled tank.

I read that the HOB overflow can dry out the sump or overflow the DT if it catches an airbubble Please advise
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:15 AM   #15
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Depends on the overflow used. I started with a regular one with the tubes that siphon the water to the sump but changed to a continuous overflow by CPR. It has a small pump that keeps the siphon so in a power outage I'm good to go.

In either scenario, drilled or hang on, there is the opportunity for flooding the sump or DT. It's all a matter of balance and check systems to keep that from happening.
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:20 AM   #16
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Thanks!

Also, can anyone explain (to a Tee would be great ) Curing LR in the tank? I know it takes way more time, but I'm not overly interested in curing it in containers, it seems to be way more work and I don't have the space.

Also, anyone from Toronto, Ontario, Canada? I would love to know where to buy LR and LS at a great price I'm willing to drive for it. If not, anyone have a good online dealer, who is trusted and not an arm 'n' a leg type of dealer?
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:24 AM   #17
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Since you are starting fresh you will be "curing" your live rock while you cycle.

Curing in a separate container is only necessary when adding live rock to an already established tank. If you don't you risk a huge die off from the rock and spikes in your parameters. Since you are looking for an ammonia source and spike during cycling it's ideal for that purpose.
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:28 AM   #18
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Since you are starting fresh you will be "curing" your live rock while you cycle.

Curing in a separate container is only necessary when adding live rock to an already established tank. If you don't you risk a huge die off from the rock and spikes in your parameters. Since you are looking for an ammonia source and spike during cycling it's ideal for that purpose.
So, just throw 'er in there and let 'er brew? Honestly though, I obviously have to do water changes every few days to speed up the process and scrap the algae, once there is growth, but is there anything that I really need to know.

Also, regarding seeding....how do I know once the rock and sand is live again?
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:31 AM   #19
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Yep, just put in all your rock for the best results first. and nope, no water changes while cycling. You can cycle with your lights off so you should have minimal algae growth.

The rock that is live will share it's bacteria and good stuff to the other "base" rocks and within a few weeks it will all be "live". It will, as time goes by, look identical to your live rock as well. I have maybe 60lbs of live rock out of 250lbs in my 125g and you truly can't tell the difference anymore.
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cox82

Thanks so mich for your input! Greatly appreciated. I have some questions.

If there is no lid, then how do you set up the lights? How do you stop fish from jumping? Could you upload a pic for me so I can get a better idea?

Please define Pods and CUC (I'm fresh off the boat into the pond...sorry )

OOOOhhhhh I'm getting excited!!! And I haven't even hit a LFS yet hehehe...although I don't really trust those up-selling yuppies! (Sorry to any LFSers here)

I've read (and now watched) so much in the last few days. I now know about everything nitrites, nitrates, CO2, different kinds of algae, sumps, HOB and drilled overflows, LR, DR, LS, DS, seeding, microorganisms, refugims, hospital tanks...the list is endless and I'm loving it all...Hi! My name is Jessica and I'm an ... what am I? hehehe
The lights rest on the rim of the tank.

Pods are amphipods, CUC- clean up crew- snails, crabs shrimp and various critters that eat the detrius and uneaten food in your tank. Helping breakdown and the nitrogen cycle.

When you find a LFS, do yourself a favor and don't believe everything they tell you. Do your research and don't make impulse buys.

I use a HOB overflow. I've never had it lose its siphon and flood my house, but its always a possibility.
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