Newbie with a 100 Gallon Tank - going SW

[Cox82]

Call me crazy, but I'm new to the size and SW set up, but I'm going all in (the poker player in me). I have kept (and maintained) fresh water tanks in the past without checking all of the water levels, etc.. Now after reading many articles over the last few weeks, I am understanding that I was actually playing russian rulette with my livestock.

So, I'm here, asking you kind folks to walk me through this big decision. I know it will take time (I have all of the time in the world), patience (another unlimited supply...ok, that's a lie, but for a beautiful set-up, I'm will to force myself to have some), and money (of course, everyone wants bang for the buck, or to save some, but I'm willing to spend...it's convincing my husband that might take some effort).

So, I have a 100 gallon tank...that's it! I have limited knowledge, although I've been studying everything and will continue to study until I feel that I won't be wasting my money and time. I have a list of items (I'll write them below to see if anything can be added or deleted) and I have a plan (although probably needs the kinks to be smoothed out with your help....oh! did I mention, I have a million questions, but will take them a few at a time.

So, my plan: buy my equipment at Reef quality (in case I want to go that way later and I probably will); set up tank with live sand, leave for a few days; add a few pieces of base quality live rock and a few dead prawns, let it cycle; add rest of base quality live rock, let it cycle; add rest of good quality live rock, let it cycle; add livestock slowly. What do you think?

So I have a few questions. What EXACTLY is a sump? I understand the theory of it, but what EXACTLY do I need for it? I have a 30 gallon tank that is empty, I was thinking to put this inside the stand, under the 100 gallon tank and use it as the sump.

Here's my list. All comments on brands, kinds, quality, pricing, ANYTHING is GREATLY appreciated!! Let me know if I don't have everything, or have too much.

Lid - (duh!)
300-500 watt heater (2-3 smaller heaters are better - are each 300-500 watts)
Skimmer (suggestions please)
Live Sand (4-5")
Refractor (what is this)
Salt
liquid dechlorinator
hydrometer
salt water test kit
Lights (Metal halide for reef, T5 and a metal halide is good for FOWLR)
Sump (help!)
Reverse osmoses filter
Air pump (extra for oxygenation of water changes)
Glass thermometer
Wave maker (extra, can buy later if wanted)
Retuen pump for sump
Power head x 2 for sump (what is this?)
Additives (buffer, calcium)
Extras (fish net (check), buckets/containers for changes (check), hospital tank (want one, what's needed?)

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm a good DYSer so I can make things or get my hubby to, if that's needed. Any money saving tips are appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Cox82]

I guess a good question would also be: Do I need a sump if it's just a FOWLR tank? Sand substrate...or could I wait until I turn it reef (WAAAYYY down the road)

 

[TeamTrash]

Wow 100 gallon!! That's impressive. My tank is only 28 gallon So, I'm probably the last person that should reply since I just set up my tank, but I have a question/comment regarding your rock plans. This is what I have understood (and I hope somebody more qualified than me can clarify):

Base rock = the dry rocks you buy that have nada good bacterias and are probably covered in dust

Live rock = the rocks that your lfs has sitting in a tank and the rocks are full of good and yummy bacteria. Also, your base rock will turn into live rock after hanging out in your aquarium for a while

How much base vs. live rock needed: 80% base rock and 20% live rock. (live rock is mucho more expensivo than base rock).

That probably wasn't much help, but I just want to make sure that I got that part right.

Oh, and about convincing your husband, just wait until he's out of town before you get started. Mine is in Bahrain until September next year and he has no idea that I've set up a tank

 

[Cox82]

After reading more I decided to do a sand bottom, mainly dead sand adding 50 lbs of live sand ontop. Then I'm going to add dead rock and 10% live rock. You have it right BTW (the difference between then).

I'm excited! I keep reading and reading and I am learning so much.

 

[jjamontan]

There is a guy that makes YouTube videos that you can learn tons from. Just search NewYork Steelo, if you go to his channel he has a video about everything.

 

[Kimmy34275]

I just started my first saltwater tank and I have been doing freshwater for years. I still have 7 tanks set up in my house all various sizes. Soooooooo much more involved but it's going well even though it's keeping me stressed out just cause I'm trying not to make any mistakes and everyone has some kind of advice. This forum has been helpful to me...... Very helpful. I will share my process so far. Day 1 sand n water, rinsed n rinsed the sand many times. Started the filter. Day 2 salt n heater. Day 3 10 lb live rock n base rock. Started running the light. Let that stew for about a week then added some more live n base rock and damsels. 3rd weed started protein skimmer and hermit crabs. 4 th week added eel, feather dusters and sea star checking parameters along the way n everything was good with nitrites fluctuating now starting to add my fish fish at 6 weeks. That's just a rough recollection. There is a lot of people here to help.

 

[Kimmy34275]

Oh my tank is 75g

 

[BallinCrew10]

Call me crazy, but I'm new to the size and SW set up, but I'm going all in (the poker player in me). I have kept (and maintained) fresh water tanks in the past without checking all of the water levels, etc.. Now after reading many articles over the last few weeks, I am understanding that I was actually playing russian rulette with my livestock.

So, I'm here, asking you kind folks to walk me through this big decision. I know it will take time (I have all of the time in the world), patience (another unlimited supply...ok, that's a lie, but for a beautiful set-up, I'm will to force myself to have some), and money (of course, everyone wants bang for the buck, or to save some, but I'm willing to spend...it's convincing my husband that might take some effort).

So, I have a 100 gallon tank...that's it! I have limited knowledge, although I've been studying everything and will continue to study until I feel that I won't be wasting my money and time. I have a list of items (I'll write them below to see if anything can be added or deleted) and I have a plan (although probably needs the kinks to be smoothed out with your help....oh! did I mention, I have a million questions, but will take them a few at a time.

So, my plan: buy my equipment at Reef quality (in case I want to go that way later and I probably will); set up tank with live sand, leave for a few days; add a few pieces of base quality live rock and a few dead prawns, let it cycle; add rest of base quality live rock, let it cycle; add rest of good quality live rock, let it cycle; add livestock slowly. What do you think?

So I have a few questions. What EXACTLY is a sump? I understand the theory of it, but what EXACTLY do I need for it? I have a 30 gallon tank that is empty, I was thinking to put this inside the stand, under the 100 gallon tank and use it as the sump.

Here's my list. All comments on brands, kinds, quality, pricing, ANYTHING is GREATLY appreciated!! Let me know if I don't have everything, or have too much.

Lid - (duh!)
300-500 watt heater (2-3 smaller heaters are better - are each 300-500 watts)
Skimmer (suggestions please)
Live Sand (4-5")
Refractor (what is this)
Salt
liquid dechlorinator
hydrometer
salt water test kit
Lights (Metal halide for reef, T5 and a metal halide is good for FOWLR)
Sump (help!)
Reverse osmoses filter
Air pump (extra for oxygenation of water changes)
Glass thermometer
Wave maker (extra, can buy later if wanted)
Retuen pump for sump
Power head x 2 for sump (what is this?)
Additives (buffer, calcium)
Extras (fish net (check), buckets/containers for changes (check), hospital tank (want one, what's needed?)

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm a good DYSer so I can make things or get my hubby to, if that's needed. Any money saving tips are appreciated.

Thanks!

Oookkk lol, let me start by saying its nice to see you've obviously done some research before just diving in head first like a lot of people do. You're setting yourself up for a successful tank.

I'll start by telling you what you don't need from your list.

A lid, you actually don't need one. I don't use one on my tank, and I've kept fish notorious for jumping like a firefish with no problems.
Dechlorinator, if you're going to use a RO or a RO/DI unit ( which you've listed and is necessary) you won't need dechlorinator.

Metal halides, T5 HO lights can be just as powerful, half the cost, and more efficient. LED's are another option. If you get the right units the initial cost is steep but no replacement bulbs, even more efficient and again with the right fixture you'll have no stocking limitations(same can be said with T5 HO).

Air pumps, not necessary, powerheads will give you plenty of gas exchange.

Addatives, if you keep up with your waterchanges you won't need to dose anything. All the calcium and trace elements your tank needs is in your salt mix.

Everything else looks good. A sump is bascially a tank that goes underneath your DT (display tank) that adds extra volume to help stabalize your parameters, it hides your equipment ( heaters, skimmer, ect.) You don't want powerheads in the sump. They go in the DT to give it flow and to help with gas exchange. It can also hold an area called a refugium or fuge. Which is a place to grow macroalgae, to help keep nitrates in check, and pods. Pods are a good part of the CUC and food for some fish.

I think I covered everything lol. Though I'm sure someone will come along and mention something I forgot.

 

[Remsset]

Also beside newyorksteelo look up mrsaltwatertank, on YouTube and on his website he has some PDF that will help out s lot.

 

[Bryceguam]

you mentioned a refractor, and I think you mean refractometer. A refractometer measures salinity and specific gravity like a hydrometer, but it is much more acurate. I've never used one so maybe somone else can tell you if you need one. Good luck with your tank!

 

[BallinCrew10]

Yes a refractometer is a necessity. I have one, much better than a hydrometer.

Also, in re-reading your post, if the tank isn't drilled you'll either have to drill it or use an overflow box to get the water down to the sump.

 

[Cox82]

There is a guy that makes YouTube videos that you can learn tons from. Just search NewYork Steelo, if you go to his channel he has a video about everything.

Thanks for this, I started watching them last night. I've decided to do up a 'blue print' type document, with EVERYTHING in it before even adding water. I'm going to decide all of the factors, down to my livestock and then I'll start the project. The planning is almost as fun...well...I woudln't know ... but I'm assuming lol

 

[Cox82]

Oookkk lol, let me start by saying its nice to see you've obviously done some research before just diving in head first like a lot of people do. You're setting yourself up for a successful tank.

I'll start by telling you what you don't need from your list.

A lid, you actually don't need one. I don't use one on my tank, and I've kept fish notorious for jumping like a firefish with no problems.
Dechlorinator, if you're going to use a RO or a RO/DI unit ( which you've listed and is necessary) you won't need dechlorinator.

Metal halides, T5 HO lights can be just as powerful, half the cost, and more efficient. LED's are another option. If you get the right units the initial cost is steep but no replacement bulbs, even more efficient and again with the right fixture you'll have no stocking limitations(same can be said with T5 HO).

Air pumps, not necessary, powerheads will give you plenty of gas exchange.

Addatives, if you keep up with your waterchanges you won't need to dose anything. All the calcium and trace elements your tank needs is in your salt mix.

Everything else looks good. A sump is bascially a tank that goes underneath your DT (display tank) that adds extra volume to help stabalize your parameters, it hides your equipment ( heaters, skimmer, ect.) You don't want powerheads in the sump. They go in the DT to give it flow and to help with gas exchange. It can also hold an area called a refugium or fuge. Which is a place to grow macroalgae, to help keep nitrates in check, and pods. Pods are a good part of the CUC and food for some fish.

I think I covered everything lol. Though I'm sure someone will come along and mention something I forgot.

Thanks so mich for your input! Greatly appreciated. I have some questions.

If there is no lid, then how do you set up the lights? How do you stop fish from jumping? Could you upload a pic for me so I can get a better idea?

Please define Pods and CUC (I'm fresh off the boat into the pond...sorry )

OOOOhhhhh I'm getting excited!!! And I haven't even hit a LFS yet hehehe...although I don't really trust those up-selling yuppies! (Sorry to any LFSers here)

I've read (and now watched) so much in the last few days. I now know about everything nitrites, nitrates, CO2, different kinds of algae, sumps, HOB and drilled overflows, LR, DR, LS, DS, seeding, microorganisms, refugims, hospital tanks...the list is endless and I'm loving it all...Hi! My name is Jessica and I'm an ... what am I? hehehe

 

[Cox82]

Yes a refractometer is a necessity. I have one, much better than a hydrometer.

Also, in re-reading your post, if the tank isn't drilled you'll either have to drill it or use an overflow box to get the water down to the sump.

Do you know of anyone who has, or have you yourself, used a HOB overflow? After reading about the two choices, I note that the drilled overflow is the obvious better choice, but I don't think I want to drill my tank. Plus, if I get ubber serious about this then I'll buy a pre-drilled tank.

I read that the HOB overflow can dry out the sump or overflow the DT if it catches an airbubble Please advise

 

[carey]

Depends on the overflow used. I started with a regular one with the tubes that siphon the water to the sump but changed to a continuous overflow by CPR. It has a small pump that keeps the siphon so in a power outage I'm good to go.

In either scenario, drilled or hang on, there is the opportunity for flooding the sump or DT. It's all a matter of balance and check systems to keep that from happening.

 

[Cox82]

Thanks!

Also, can anyone explain (to a Tee would be great ) Curing LR in the tank? I know it takes way more time, but I'm not overly interested in curing it in containers, it seems to be way more work and I don't have the space.

Also, anyone from Toronto, Ontario, Canada? I would love to know where to buy LR and LS at a great price I'm willing to drive for it. If not, anyone have a good online dealer, who is trusted and not an arm 'n' a leg type of dealer?

 

[carey]

Since you are starting fresh you will be "curing" your live rock while you cycle.

Curing in a separate container is only necessary when adding live rock to an already established tank. If you don't you risk a huge die off from the rock and spikes in your parameters. Since you are looking for an ammonia source and spike during cycling it's ideal for that purpose.

 

[Cox82]

Since you are starting fresh you will be "curing" your live rock while you cycle.

Curing in a separate container is only necessary when adding live rock to an already established tank. If you don't you risk a huge die off from the rock and spikes in your parameters. Since you are looking for an ammonia source and spike during cycling it's ideal for that purpose.

So, just throw 'er in there and let 'er brew? Honestly though, I obviously have to do water changes every few days to speed up the process and scrap the algae, once there is growth, but is there anything that I really need to know.

Also, regarding seeding....how do I know once the rock and sand is live again?

 

[carey]

Yep, just put in all your rock for the best results first. and nope, no water changes while cycling. You can cycle with your lights off so you should have minimal algae growth.

The rock that is live will share it's bacteria and good stuff to the other "base" rocks and within a few weeks it will all be "live". It will, as time goes by, look identical to your live rock as well. I have maybe 60lbs of live rock out of 250lbs in my 125g and you truly can't tell the difference anymore.

 

[BallinCrew10]

Thanks so mich for your input! Greatly appreciated. I have some questions.

If there is no lid, then how do you set up the lights? How do you stop fish from jumping? Could you upload a pic for me so I can get a better idea?

Please define Pods and CUC (I'm fresh off the boat into the pond...sorry )

OOOOhhhhh I'm getting excited!!! And I haven't even hit a LFS yet hehehe...although I don't really trust those up-selling yuppies! (Sorry to any LFSers here)

I've read (and now watched) so much in the last few days. I now know about everything nitrites, nitrates, CO2, different kinds of algae, sumps, HOB and drilled overflows, LR, DR, LS, DS, seeding, microorganisms, refugims, hospital tanks...the list is endless and I'm loving it all...Hi! My name is Jessica and I'm an ... what am I? hehehe

The lights rest on the rim of the tank.

Pods are amphipods, CUC- clean up crew- snails, crabs shrimp and various critters that eat the detrius and uneaten food in your tank. Helping breakdown and the nitrogen cycle.

When you find a LFS, do yourself a favor and don't believe everything they tell you. Do your research and don't make impulse buys.

I use a HOB overflow. I've never had it lose its siphon and flood my house, but its always a possibility.