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Old 01-15-2014, 10:44 PM   #11
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What are the symptoms if the fish dying? Rapid breathing? Loss of colour etc?
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:19 PM   #12
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Another bizarre update: I went to 2 LFS's today. Water parameters tested okay there. Fish keepers had a few possible ideas: maybe the tank never cycled at all since there hasn't been anything living in there for months (but I do have live sand, live-rock with algae, & small amounts of corraline)? The other person there vehemently disagreed & stated it should be cycled after 13 months regardless of if we weren't able to keep fish in there. Second possibility was as previously mentioned, stray voltage (or he said maybe even vibrations from an old powerhead- one of mine did sound much louder & off kilter than the other when I removed them.) But the other person said that stray voltage wasn't an issue for the fish as long as a current isn't being generated through them (which would either trip the gfci and/or noticeably shock me & still shouldn't bother the fish). Lastly, he recommended a product called poly-filter made by poly-bio-marine inc., so any reviews would be greatly appreciated. It basically seems like the last stop before actually having the water lab-tested, & if it indeed works, is supposed to identify then remove contaminants. So, I went home with 2 percs for my quarantine tank (which crazily still doesn't have any issues even though the source water is the same) and 1 cardinal to "test" the powerhead theory. Even with the powerheads removed & after drip-acclimation of a little over an hour, the cardinal almost within secondsstarted diving nosedown & becoming disoriented. So, I quickly re-netted him, held him suspended in the DT to assess his behavior & after severely struggling for a few more seconds, returned him to his acclimation bucket. Within minutes, he was upright and acting ok again. So even the acclimation water in the bucket (which by that time was at least 3/4 DT water) was okay & didn't cause any obvious distress. BTW, the percs were acclimated perfectly & seem happy in their QT home. So, now my cardinal is drip-acclimating to the QT (I know even the stress of double acclimation is going to do a number on him), but seems to be doing well considering. So my bullet list is: It is something different even from the acclimation bucket to the actual tank. It has immediate detrimental effects. My parameters immediately following this were 78F, SG: 1.021, ammonia, nitrites, & nitrates all 0. Interestingly the pH dropped to below 7.4 from 8.0 since yesterday. The alkalinity was 8.2. I hadn't added buffer after 20% water change yesterday, but forgot to do this in the QT tank too & its pH had dropped as well, so unless it makes a huge, immediate, difference in a bigger tank, I don't know that that is a contributing factor to the repeated immediate demise of new fish. Thanks for your continued help.
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20 Saltwater QT: 1 perc, 1 bangai cardinal, 1 crab, 1 sandsifting goby, 1 sandsifter star, 1 cleaner shrimp.
90 Malawi Cichlid and 1 "Beta Blob"
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:23 PM   #13
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Both of the beginning folks were wrong. Even if the tank wasn't cycled, fish would not create sufficient ammonia to kill them in 2 hours, let alone immediately, like your current fish.
A vibration from a power head isn't going to kill a fish either. Maybe scare it, but then you would see it duck behind the rock, not go belly up.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:25 PM   #14
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Don't use buffers. Put the power heads back in and take the lids off.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bectan01 View Post
What are the symptoms if the fish dying? Rapid breathing? Loss of colour etc?
Fish immediately swims out of net & does a "nosedive" straight to the bottom of the tank, becomes very disoriented & almost restless. The best way I can think to describe it is how they act in a dip. No noticeable color loss. Rapid breathing as it becomes worse. One of the fish that died yesterday had to be removed from under the rock & other then the fact that it was dead, it looked fine. All symptoms resolved within minutes with the re-netted cardinal today.
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125 FOWLR (sans fish!) aka "Tank of Doom"
20 Saltwater QT: 1 perc, 1 bangai cardinal, 1 crab, 1 sandsifting goby, 1 sandsifter star, 1 cleaner shrimp.
90 Malawi Cichlid and 1 "Beta Blob"
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:28 PM   #16
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Don't use buffers. Put the power heads back in and take the lids off.
Can you please explain your rationale behind these recommendations?
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125 FOWLR (sans fish!) aka "Tank of Doom"
20 Saltwater QT: 1 perc, 1 bangai cardinal, 1 crab, 1 sandsifting goby, 1 sandsifter star, 1 cleaner shrimp.
90 Malawi Cichlid and 1 "Beta Blob"
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:30 PM   #17
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It will most definitely raise the ph to an acceptable range.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:39 PM   #18
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It will most definitely raise the ph to an acceptable range.
Why would the fall in pH cause such a problem in the larger DT & not my 20gal. QT? And if the buffer raises the pH, why not use it? Sorry, but I'm not following...
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125 FOWLR (sans fish!) aka "Tank of Doom"
20 Saltwater QT: 1 perc, 1 bangai cardinal, 1 crab, 1 sandsifting goby, 1 sandsifter star, 1 cleaner shrimp.
90 Malawi Cichlid and 1 "Beta Blob"
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:44 PM   #19
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Stability is essential in these closed systems. Correcting the PH swings, would be a step in the right direction, if not the solution. Good gas exchange and proper aeration are components of a healthy tank. I've never used lids, jumpers or not.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:56 PM   #20
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I just made screens for my jumpers thanks to Bulk Reef Supply. They have a clear plastic screen that they suggested putting into a window screen frame. It dramatically increased the light entering my tank over egg crate.
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