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Old 01-16-2014, 05:38 PM   #31
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5 months getting zapped? Unlikely.
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:39 PM   #32
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You are using 700 gph power heads in a 125? You should have 1500 gph power heads.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:08 PM   #33
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So we're back to something leaching. Did you use any chemicals in the dt that may have bound to the rock? Any newly siliconed parts added? Copper?
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:42 PM   #34
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Do you use any media bags in your QT?
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:59 PM   #35
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its not copper, if it was, it would of def wiped out the inverts way faster than the fish.
id rule out the water itself, id say contaminated water isnt possible due to the inverts lasting months.
electricity id rule out as well, id like to believe that if the OP isnt feeling even a slight tingle from touching the water, then its not going to instantly kill fish.
are you running carbon filtration on the qt?
the 2 things id do, just to completely and totally rule them out for good, is 1) lab test the water.
and 2) do a side by side comparison, get 2 of the cheapest sw fish you can, get them home, bag float them in the qt tank, then simply fill a container with DT water, set it right next to the DT, then release one fish into each tank, the DT and the bucket of DT water. if they both die, idk im at a loss of thoughts, IF just the DT fish dies, then id say theres a contaminant in the water,
its worth mentioning that if you do this experiment, you may want to physically unplug EVERYTHING on the dt, this will ensure you are fully eliminating that aspect.
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my 125g Sw...Round 2!http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums...220171-33.html
ever see someone cut a 125g in half??
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums...-286438-4.html
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Old 01-16-2014, 07:18 PM   #36
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You are using 700 gph power heads in a 125? You should have 1500 gph power heads.
1500 gph each or total water flow? The gentleman who sold us our 55 gallon in 06 recommended a minimum of 12x the tank volume of circulation excluding the filter return (I had a canister with that tank) so I figured the 700gph and 900gph power heads I had in there were sufficient. If not, I can definitely add more!

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So we're back to something leaching. Did you use any chemicals in the dt that may have bound to the rock? Any newly siliconed parts added? Copper?
No new silicone parts added. When I did the reset, the bulkheads were sealed with silicone, but that has been 13 months and no new silicone has been added since.

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Do you use any media bags in your QT?
No media bags, but I do use carbon in the filter (a Marineland Penguin over the back.) Really, there is nothing in the sump for the DT that is not in use in the QT (skimmer, carbon, foam) except for the UV sterilizer.

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125 FOWLR (sans fish!) aka "Tank of Doom"
20 Saltwater QT: 1 perc, 1 bangai cardinal, 1 crab, 1 sandsifting goby, 1 sandsifter star, 1 cleaner shrimp.
90 Malawi Cichlid and 1 "Beta Blob"
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Old 01-16-2014, 07:24 PM   #37
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its not copper, if it was, it would of def wiped out the inverts way faster than the fish.
id rule out the water itself, id say contaminated water isnt possible due to the inverts lasting months.
electricity id rule out as well, id like to believe that if the OP isnt feeling even a slight tingle from touching the water, then its not going to instantly kill fish.
are you running carbon filtration on the qt?
the 2 things id do, just to completely and totally rule them out for good, is 1) lab test the water.
and 2) do a side by side comparison, get 2 of the cheapest sw fish you can, get them home, bag float them in the qt tank, then simply fill a container with DT water, set it right next to the DT, then release one fish into each tank, the DT and the bucket of DT water. if they both die, idk im at a loss of thoughts, IF just the DT fish dies, then id say theres a contaminant in the water,
its worth mentioning that if you do this experiment, you may want to physically unplug EVERYTHING on the dt, this will ensure you are fully eliminating that aspect.
The introduction bucket last night was at least 75% DT water at the end, and the fish were 100% fine in the bucket. That being said, this is an interesting test and one I think I will try. I took the top off and made sure the surface is turbulent for gas exchange, hopefully eliminating any oxygen saturation issues, and the QT could surely support two damsels if this test goes terribly wrong.

If this fails, the next step will be lab tests and as a last resort stray current tests!

Don
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125 FOWLR (sans fish!) aka "Tank of Doom"
20 Saltwater QT: 1 perc, 1 bangai cardinal, 1 crab, 1 sandsifting goby, 1 sandsifter star, 1 cleaner shrimp.
90 Malawi Cichlid and 1 "Beta Blob"
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Old 01-16-2014, 07:26 PM   #38
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youll eliminate the stray current possibility by simply unpluggin everything on the DT when doing the experiemnt. 2 birds, 1 stone
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ever see someone cut a 125g in half??
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums...-286438-4.html
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Old 01-16-2014, 07:30 PM   #39
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youll eliminate the stray current possibility by simply unpluggin everything on the DT when doing the experiemnt. 2 birds, 1 stone
Ahh, that makes sense. Good call!
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125 FOWLR (sans fish!) aka "Tank of Doom"
20 Saltwater QT: 1 perc, 1 bangai cardinal, 1 crab, 1 sandsifting goby, 1 sandsifter star, 1 cleaner shrimp.
90 Malawi Cichlid and 1 "Beta Blob"
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:57 AM   #40
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Ok, update for this evening.

I purchased a Mutimeter to test current and found that I was at 4.1 volts. I removed an old heater and put a new one in which dropped it to .7 volts. Before introducing fish, I also tested the newer of the two old power heads and found it was emitting over 4 volts of stray current which leads me to believe that this was part of the problem. I found the .7 volt to be coming from the two return pumps, both of which are just over 1 year old. No other items seem to be adding any voltage to the system.

Overnight and today, the top was off and one power head was aerating the surface. I also purchased another new power head and positioned it to aerate the surface as well. I drip acclimated 2 Yellowtail Blue Damsels, put one in a bucket of tank water and the other in the tank (in a large, 10" x 10" net with swimming room) and both seem to be doing well for the time being. I put him into the tank with everything unplugged and slowly plugged items back in to see if any of them had an effect on the fish and none appeared to.

So, as of now, both have been in the DT for about 1 hour and are acting essentially normal for fish that just went through a transfer. I plan on leaving them in the large net overnight just in case there are issues, but, fingers crossed, I will be able to let them swim free come morning.

One more question I do have is about two inverts currently in our QT. Thinking I had our problem solved yesterday, I purchased a sand sifting star and a cleaner shrimp (and a sand sifting goby) that I figured would be fine in the DT....since there were issues with the introduction last night, they were acclimated to the QT instead. How long are they safe to keep in an essentially bare QT before we -have- to either reintroduce them to the DT or take them back to the LFS?

Thanks to everyone who helped me out. The two items that I think contributed to our major problems I would not likely have discovered on my own. With your help, a discouraged marine aquarist is going to continue with the hobby instead of throwing in the towel!

Thanks Again!

Don

PS-the Poly-Filter discussed yesterday is turning a light brown indicating nothing more than organic waste. I take that as a good sign!
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125 FOWLR (sans fish!) aka "Tank of Doom"
20 Saltwater QT: 1 perc, 1 bangai cardinal, 1 crab, 1 sandsifting goby, 1 sandsifter star, 1 cleaner shrimp.
90 Malawi Cichlid and 1 "Beta Blob"
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