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Old 08-21-2008, 09:15 PM   #11
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Then the fact the airstones helps is another indicater. THe bubbles produced from them isnt the type of oxygen you water needs. Salt water receives its O2 source from a gas exchange at the surface creat from water movement.

Then if you have good flow the LR and LS will convert ammonia and nitrate into nitrogen which will be released at the surface. Removeing the glass top was one of the best things you could have done . Now you need a few powerheads for water movement. This is not my opinion but a fact that should be learned before any water is added to the tank.
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Old 08-21-2008, 09:19 PM   #12
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kurt while I realize that's possible it's not something that's happening here, I'll tell you why:

1. Yes they are calibrated and only 2 months old
2. In mFathets tank I setup for him both are consistent with a reading of 8.28 to 8.30
3. When I make water it reads 8.34 to 8.40 - I've used tropic marin which many pros sweat by and Red Sea, which is my favorite

So they're taking accurate reading, specially when x-referenced with Nutrafin chemical testers.

Also, I belive this would be a two fold solution. Meaning if I can manage to get more O2 into the water not only would the pH go up and stay up but nitrates would prob be lower do to more effective nitrogen cycle, without me needing to use nitrate sponges ....
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Old 08-21-2008, 09:25 PM   #13
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Lance - been doing this a long time... And while I do appreciate all help I do have 2 korolia 4 pumps, which I thought I had indicated, regardless, water movement inside us no problem as the korolias do a fine job at moving water throughout the entire tank.....

Hence why this is driving me nuts... Yes if I really agitate the surface it goes up, but at what cost 5-6 gallons per day of evaporation!

That's crazy!
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Old 08-21-2008, 09:36 PM   #14
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You stated you have a 265 gallon. Is this right? If so then this isnt near enough. You want a constant 5300 GPH. 2 K-4's and a 600 GPH return you only half way there.
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Old 08-21-2008, 10:39 PM   #15
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"Yes if I really agitate the surface it goes up, but at what cost 5-6 gallons per day of evaporation!"

As stated earlier, this is the solution. If you don't want to top off that much a day either move your lights higher or stick with a decent, consistant "lower than you like" pH. I hope that didn't sound mean or come off the wrong way. Have you thought of an auto top off system?
I just thought of two more options.
Get the deeper water to better exchange with the surface (thus the additional flow), remember the O2 exchange happens at the surface.
2nd option, lower your salinity.
How deep do you have your pH probe?
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:06 AM   #16
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pH probes are at top and half way, have also taken readings from sump, and from all diff. locations in tank - all same readings, with the exception of the sump varying by .01.

going to replace the koralia 4 that I have for the two upcoming Korolia 6's, that along with the (2) returns will provide 5600 GPH..but I'm afraid this may be too much flow for some fish, will see, I usually try to set the flow on a 45 degree angel from the top so as to stir the water on the bottom to come up..we'll see what happens, if not, I'll just have to live with the 8.1, which should be safe for everything, just not as comfortable for some.

also, more importantly though, how will this affect my nitrates...do to lower oxygen in the water....?
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Old 08-22-2008, 01:45 PM   #17
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here is another observation..i take it back about the ripple on the water...I just pointed both of my returns to create a large riple on the water since last night, and the pH actually dropped...it's now at 8.05...so it actually dropped by .05, while that is normally the case at night, it should of started to pick up by now....lights turn on at 4pm until midnight, so they're on 8 hours a day....

any other thoughts...?

I've had 90, 125 and 150's before with no issues, this 265 is just cracking me...

(keep in mind when making water, it's at 8.4 and I change 20% to 30% every two weeks), but the pH drops to 8.1 within hours...

I want to try and isolate the issue and try to restore pH to normal levels without having to dose anything...alkalinity is at 3meq/l right now and calcium is at 400.
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Old 08-22-2008, 02:43 PM   #18
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How long after making a new batch of sw are you testing the pH?
As others have stated 8.1 is perfectly acceptable.
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Old 08-22-2008, 03:04 PM   #19
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I think you need to take the water and let it sit out for 24hrs and test PH.

Also do the same w/ an air stone for 24hrs and test PH.
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Old 08-22-2008, 03:18 PM   #20
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within 3 hours is gradually declines to 8.10

as for testing the water out, etc...yes, that test has already been as denotes on the notes.

water outside or inside the house measures the same with or without an airstone, key is that if I do use an airsone, it climbs to 8.25 to 8.27 without an issue and stays there...

I have (2) koralia magnun 6 coming tomorrow, while they'll move more than plenty of water including the 1200GPH from the returns, I highly doubt this will have any impact on pH, I hope it does, but given test results thus far with (2) koralia 4's and the returns, I highly doubt to magnin 6's will drastically increase pH by that much if any at all, but we'll see, I'll post results several hours after I put those in tomorrow to see if they made any sort of difference.

and rippling the water has not done anything yet, I'm agressively agitating the water on top since 7am, enough where it's caused a moderate level of evaporation thus far with zero effect on pH....
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