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Old 03-19-2005, 07:39 PM   #1
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Please comment on Sump design

I am 8 months into this hobby and I have decided to upgrade my setup. I have already purchased an 40 gallon tanks and plan to convert my current 25 gallon into a sump. Please take a look at my sump design and tell me what you think. This will be my very first sump setup so please throw any advice my way.

I will not be drilling the tank. An overflow will be used. One thing I am still unclear about is what overflow to purchase. It seems that most online retailers sell CPR Overflows. I expect the MAG 7 to output approx. 450 gph at 4.5 feet so I need an overflow capable of handling this flow rate. Are there any recommendations/links for overflows other than CPR and what gph output would you all recommend.

I also plan to use acrylic for the baffles. Is there a special adhesive (silicon?) for acrylic to glass bonds?

TIA!
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Old 03-19-2005, 07:58 PM   #2
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J tube overflow. I wrote a wicked long response to someone on why I prefer and how it works, if you care to search this site for it. Your overflow should at the very least be able to keep up with your return. You should also plumb a ball valve in line with your return from the sump pump to set your tank level.

NM, I found the link..GL!

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewto...highlight=sump
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Old 03-19-2005, 09:34 PM   #3
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Looks good. Just be sure the 6" that you have left in the sump will hold any backflow from the pump being powered off.
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:03 AM   #4
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Thanks for the responses. Has anyone used acrlic baffles with a glass aquarium? I thought I read some where that that could be an issue.
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Old 03-20-2005, 02:54 AM   #5
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Looks like a good design to me (its almost exactly what I built ). I used 3/16" acrylic for the baffles and aquarium safe silicone to secure them. The only problem that I have, and would try to find a solution for is that the last baffle at the return pump bulges under pressure when I let evaporation get too bad. Some eggcrate bracing maybe. The water level will drop in that chamber as the water volume in the system is reduced, a good indicator for topping off. The pump may run dry if it gets too far. For me this can happen in 2 days.

Put a vent hole in your return line just below the water level in the display tank. This is to prevent siphoning if the power shuts off. The 6" headroom should be ok for the flow back. I planned the size of the pump chamber to dry out before the display tank spills over if the overflow stops returning water.

I have a homemade overflow. Unless you are absolutely confident in your DIY skills, I would buy a factory built unit.
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Old 03-20-2005, 10:27 AM   #6
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I havent tried any acrylic work but I have heard from others that acrylic wont adhere to glass even with sylicon.
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Old 03-20-2005, 10:52 PM   #7
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From some research I have done, it seems the best two names in HOB overflows are Amiracle and Lifereef. I haven't used either but have only read good opinions on them.

http://aquacorals.com/ShopOverflows.htm => Amiracle

http://lifereef.com/frame.html => Lifereef

HTH
Stephen
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Old 03-20-2005, 11:21 PM   #8
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Not sure if anyone mentioned it but you really want the bubble trap as the last thing before the water goes back the the main tank. My sump is similar in design and I had to fill the final chamber with some filter floss to prevent bubbles going into the main tank. When the water tips over that last baffle new bubbles are created.
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Old 03-21-2005, 02:38 AM   #9
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Just food for thought...but why do you need the baffles at all in this design? I mean...just let the water fall in at one end and out the other end. Fill the entire thing with sand and LR.

There's no "correct" way to do this...
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Old 03-21-2005, 10:24 AM   #10
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in this design for your fuge I would agree with patm. move the bubble trap to after the fuge and only a single divider from the first chamber to the fuge. The bubble trap in my fuge only has two baffles and it works great.
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