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Old 03-12-2004, 09:18 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by AnnnetteM
ok, steve so I can keep the carbon in and my protein skimmer and if I change 25 gals a month out of the 110 I will be ok on the trace elements, yes?
Depends on the age of the tank moreso but given the nitrite levels at this point, I would suggest changing 10 gal/week for now which could be lessened later on. I am not a fan of large water changes unless in an emergency so I would honestly not go beyond 15 gal at a time. Believe me, the trace element additions are not as important as you've been lead to think. Most are sustained via foods and the saltmix. There is also ample amounts in the B-Ionic.

Second, how do I set up a refugium? I have the trickle filter with the bio-balls, and in my left over space next to it is my large skimmer with a pump for it taking up space and a pump for my UV ster in the same space so I have no room left under the tank cabinet in the sump or anywhere. Under m e tank is also a large chiller, so.....how do I set this up?
Check the link I provided above it will give you a decent amount of info and a google seach will give you literally 100's of DIY suggestions and detailed plans. The refugium does not have to go under the tank. It can be set up beside or above the main tank. The options are many.

I would like to keep the mandarin, but if not possible then he must go back I guess, but hubby would be upset being that he doesn't understand why I must return fish. This will be my second as I already returned a dejardin tang because he was bullying the entire tank after 3 months of him being in there. I got no credit or anything for him and they sold him for $80 after I returned him. I paid $65, but he was so healthy and pretty when I returned him they got more and I got nothing. It makes me so mad to have to do this. Makes me hate my LFS. Is there anything I can do for this poor fish? Live brine? You stated they might not eat frozen, but live? And if I just dump the pods in my sump they will get thrown through the UV ster, no good!
If you have gotten that kind of response from your LFS, I'd suggest finding a new one. Very shaddy business to take something for nothing. Even the bad ones will usually caught up 1/3 the asking price, especially when you bought it from them originally.

Try the direct feedings, seperately cure and add more LR and get the refugium set up. You may be able to hold off on returning the dragonet if things go smoothly. The addition of some cured rock alone should increase the pod population for a few weeks.

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Old 03-13-2004, 02:06 AM   #12
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JMTC, but I have do agree with Steve. You should definitly try to find a different LFS. They seem very shaddy...they sold you all those dosing products that you absolutly did not need. That, to me, was a ridiculous amount of supplements, and they just did it to make more money off you, as if you didn't spend enough as it was. Especially since you have a FOWLR, not a full reef. Even if you had so many corals and clams in your tank that you couldn't even fit another one in there, you wouldn't have needed that many supplements. If I were you, I would be outraged at that LFS and boycott if forever!

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Old 03-14-2004, 07:43 PM   #13
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I do want to have a lot of coral in the tank eventually, but I want to get things under control and perfect first. I must say the only other place that sells salt water fish and corals in my area close by is a pet store with dogs cats and all. And they always have this slimy maroon stuff growing on their corals. Scary! Once I get corals are they also going to affect the nitrites and nitrates?
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:18 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by AnnnetteM
Once I get corals are they also going to affect the nitrites and nitrates?
If you mean will the corals cause these two, the answer is no. Corals add little to nothing for waste producing bioload.

If you mean will they be affected by the levels, most definately. Corals are not tolerant of any detectable nitrite or ammonia. They will endure a certain amount of nitrate but it should be kept as low as possible. Until you current issue with the nitrite is resolved, I would not add any corals as yet. Nitrates should be kept below 10 ppm for most soft corals and less than 5 ppm for stonies.

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