purigen

[twoodrough]

I have been reading good things about this product. My LFS has suggested that I need matrix+fost guard (spell?) or seagel to go with it. Is this necessary, or overkill? I don't think I need the other stuff, but thought I would check first.

If you are not a fan of purigen, what would you suggest I do with a HOB filter in a 10 gallon tank? I only have experience with freshwater carbon filled cartridges for HOB filters, so you will need to explain anything else in detail.

Thanks!

 

[Fishguy2727]

I wouldn't worry about the others. Seachem Matrix is arguably the best biomedia out there, but designed for use in canister filters, not for a reef. In saltwater live rock will do that for you.

If you need to remove phosphate use a granular ferric oxide (GFO). Like Purigen it will work best in a reactor. Many people will also use a carbon in a reactor (Seachem MAtrix Carbon would be one of the best). My reactors are hooked up in a chain. The water goes through the one with Matrix Carbon, then the one with GFO, then the one with Purigen.

Your tank needs to be in a very good condition for these to make a difference worth their cost. Otherwise water changes will be more valuable until you get the tank to that point.

 

[twoodrough]

So, correct me if I am wrong:

I am reading that if I keep up on weekly 10% water changes, I don't need any of this other stuff. The additional stuff can make the water better, but is not absolutely necessary. I can run a completely empty HOB filter, using it for water flow only (no other powerheads). If I am willing to put in the manual work to change water each week, and not overstock, I can save money by not having to get these other items. I can run a pretty stripped down tank without being cruel to my inhabitants.

Of course, this is all may be true if nitrates are low enough. I know 0 nitrates is the ideal, but what is really reasonable? At what level would I need to do more than weekly water changes? 5? 10? 20? 40?

Finally, it sounds as if a 30 gallon tank could be set up about the same way, since they are both considered "nano". Whatever works for my 10 will likely be duplicated for a 30 down the road (with the addtion of an RO system).

I am not trying to sound cheap. Lots of things would be beneficial, but not everything is necessary. I want to start simple and add what is needed based on water parameters.

That said: it sounds like you would use seachem matrix over purigen to remove phosphates, even though it is meant for canisters

Thanks so much!

 

[twoodrough]

....it is a given that I will have 10 lbs live rock and 10-20 lbs sand

 

[twoodrough]

Sorry about overloading this reply to a specific question...I moved it to a new thread....

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

...

That said: it sounds like you would use seachem matrix over purigen to remove phosphates, even though it is meant for canisters

Thanks so much!

No... different media has different functions.

Matrix = media for biological filtration to remove nitrates
Purigen = media for chemical filtration to remove organic things in your tank that can eventually break down into ammonia/nitrites/nitrates
Phosguard = alumina oxide media to remove phosphates and silicates from your tank water
Carbon = media for chemical filtration, working much like the Purigen

Any of these things (well... except maybe for the Matrix) will work in a HOB filter as long as the water runs through it. What you "need" all depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

Partial water changes will go a long way to reduce the things that these media will take care of. Whether or not PWCs are enough will depend on your source water, your level of feedings, and what water parameters you want to shoot for.

 

[twoodrough]

Source : RO from local grocery

Feedings: would be once a day unless I find a reason not to do that

Parameters: I want healthy tanks, but don't have time or $$$ to go overboard

That is why I asked at what level of nitrate would I need to do more than weekly water changes. If I find that SW tanks need to maintain under 10, then I can make it happen. But if SW tanks are okay at 10-20, then I don't have to worry so much.

Thanks for the breakdown on each product. Still not sure which one or ones I should use, but the info is good to have.

 

[Fishguy2727]

I would keep the nitrate under 10.

I would not use an aluminum based phosphate removing media, they only work for about a week and then you have to change it out or it will all be released again. Go with GFO.

In the ten I would have more like 15-20 pounds of rock (not all has to be bought as live rock though).

 

[bavass]

www.bulkreefsupply.com has the best Carbon and GFO out there that I have tried

 

[twoodrough]

Which ones are aluminum based? I will read up on the other things that have been mentioned. I may be back with more questions on this as I start to figure out which one I might use. It is a small filter (aqua tech 5-15) and I will only have space for one type, I think.

Thanks for the nitrate number. It gives me something to shoot for.

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

... Still not sure which one or ones I should use, but the info is good to have.

For a fish-only tank, I wouldn't use any of them - I'd just deal with nitrates by doing water changes. If for some reason you find you need to reduce phosphates, say for example to combat some nasty algae outbreak, then you can always add that later.

Many folks run carbon or Purigen in a reef tank to remove any compounds that are released by corals for "chemical warefare". Phosphate removers are run because excessive phosphates will stunt coral growth. There is other media out there to reduce nitrates down to near zero levels. But most of that stuff is focused on coral health, and not really the fish. So for a fish-only tank (which I'm assuming you have since this is posted in the FO/FOWLR section), it's not really needed.

As far as the aluminum-based phosphate removers, they're the ones that are white. GFO (granulated ferric oxide) based ones are rust colored.

 

[Fishguy2727]

Any of the white phosphate removers are aluminum based. All GFO will be rust colored (ferris oxide).