Originally Posted by blackhorse
How do you go about sterilizing the Biowheel?
I've just soaked the biowheel itself in a 1:5 bleach/water solution for a couple hours, then rinsed and rinsed and rinsed it out. Then I soaked it in DI
water that's been mixed with a dechlorinator for about a day. Then let it dry out completely. If there's still an chlorine smell, then it's back for more rinsing and dechlorinator. That's basically the same routine Marineland advices for the diatom filter that comes with the Magnum HOBs. The rest of the plastic stuff I just washed out really good and let air dry. Can't say that these instructions came from anywhere authoritative... just transferred info from other stuff to this application.
Also, if I go this route. (add a Marineland Biowheel 100 to my main tank). Should I keep running my cannister filter? I also have two Hydor Korlia powerheads and protein skimmer (Aqua C Remora).
I use the Biowheel on my main strictly for quick QT filtration, and a little surface agitation (100gph). While I do run the blue pad on it, it's primarily so food bits/gunk doesn't build up on the biowheel itself... the piddly amount of carbon it there doesn't do anything, in my opinion. I also run a Magnum250 HOB
for chemical filtration - currently two bags of Purigen. My feeling is I get way better "wetting" of the chemical media in the HOB
versus the little Biowheel. I've run a packet of Purigen in the Biowheel on my QT (inserted between the blue pad and the biowheel itself), but it seemed like there was a lot of bypass. Even so, the Purigen was turning dark, so it wasn't being completely bypassed.
So I guess my answer is that if you're using your cannister to run chemical media, I'd keep it. I'm also guessing that it's contributing to your overall flow, so that's another reason to keep it. If you have anything in it other than chemical media (like filter pads, etc) make sure you rinse it out every couple weeks in your old PWC
water to get all the gunk out that will want to turn in to nitrates.