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Old 01-16-2007, 04:33 PM   #11
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I know you're typical lfs wants to make money but like I said above I told the lfs guy I would buy a halide from him and the anemone from him. But he told me you don't need that halide. He said my 260 watt pcs would be fine if the anemone was up high and fed often. He DID say ritteris are risky no matter what you do but there is a chance he could do ok.
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:43 PM   #12
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Wouldn't a 6500k MH be a better choice since it is the closest to natural sunlight and simulates the light within about the first 3-5 feet of water in the ocean? I've also read they produce more blue than 14000k and 20000k and last longer. Just what I've heard. I plan on setting test tanks up with different lighting but same corals to see what goes well with what in the near future.
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:58 PM   #13
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6500K is the closest to natural sun light and about 15-20 yrs ago they were just about the only "reef" mh bulb you could get. I used them for many, many years. The thing about that temp bulb is it is somewhat yellow and you need heavy actinic supplement, unless of course you don't mind the color. A far as growth, I never really noticed a difference between that and the 15K's I use now, but I used more actinic with the 6500 than I do now with the 15K's...so I guess it sort of balanced out.
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:44 PM   #14
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I've read that the spectrum in 14000k and 20000k bulbs will change faster than 6500k because there are more gases mixed together so the quality degrades faster. I don't know, can you notice any of this?

I don't mind the yellow tint if everything is doin ok. I'm use to the yellow from my FW planted tanks. lol
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Old 01-19-2007, 07:17 PM   #15
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I personally never noticed anything like that, but I always change my bulbs every 12 months.
Gheez, never realized how many bulbs and how much $$ I spent on them over the years. Well, it's a reef and nothing comes cheap.
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