Tank upgrade!! 8-)

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I prefer PVC. Easy to put together and cut. The tubing just turns into a pain.

How come it becomes a pain Hank? Am I ok with using the return line as vinyl... It is basically a straight shot?

Also, the bulkheads are "barbed" on the ends, will this accept slip on PVC?
 
Over time tubing can get dead spots in them in corners and need adjusted. I move mine some just in case every couple of months. I have no clue about bulkheads and can't help you there.
 
Over time tubing can get dead spots in them in corners and need adjusted. I move mine some just in case every couple of months. I have no clue about bulkheads and can't help you there.

Ok thank you. Only reason I'm asking is because if there is a way to manipulate the tubing to have basically gentle curves as opposed to sharp angles to the sump with PVC, wouldn't that eliminate the risk of dead spots, as well as any loss of flow?
 
Not when we are talking about the vinyl settling into place. I'm not an expert on it, just recall the info that was presented over a year ago. A google search might be a good assistance in the matter.
 
So I think I may settle with braided vinyl... After speaking to my LFS, google, and BRS, my mind
is made up. As always, I appreciate the response Hank.
 
Just got an order placed at BRS, for some tubing, clamps, and some DIY framing and corner pieces so I can cross that off the list.

Random, but anyone know how long USPS Priority takes to ship lol?
 
Is it better to use plastic or wood shims when leveling a tank stand? Seems like the wood would be more forgiving when settling but plastic would be the better option...?
 
I've never used plastic shims in my life, always wood.

Ok thanks... I saw a YouTube video on leveling an aquarium, plus advice on this forum and talking to my LFS, and feel better about leveling this tank stand, and will be using wooden shims.

My BRS order arrived and I'm letting the braided tubing lay out flat along my stairway hand railing to let it straighten out a bit. I will probably put the ends in boiling water so I can bend them so the tubing will "fit" appropriately for my filter sock holder.

Also have to finish building the DIY top I started, which I need to modify because I didn't leave a gap for electrical wires from the powerheads.... D'oh!
 
Here's a question for you, and I'm sure everyone who has a close quarters sump can help answer... I have to drop my sump in from above (with the reef octo nwb150 in it and there's not a lot of room under there)... How am I supposed to clean the chamber of the sump every 6 months as recommended? Do I just clean it while it's still in the sump? I would need to dismantle the entire tank to get it out of the cabinet in the stand if I have to remove it...yikes...??
 
Here's a question for you, and I'm sure everyone who has a close quarters sump can help answer... I have to drop my sump in from above (with the reef octo nwb150 in it and there's not a lot of room under there)... How am I supposed to clean the chamber of the sump every 6 months as recommended? Do I just clean it while it's still in the sump? I would need to dismantle the entire tank to get it out of the cabinet in the stand if I have to remove it...yikes...??

This is confusing... I meant clean the reaction chamber of the PROTEIN SKIMMER... I won't be able to remove it from the sump due to space restrictions.
 
Here's a question for you, and I'm sure everyone who has a close quarters sump can help answer... I have to drop my sump in from above (with the reef octo nwb150 in it and there's not a lot of room under there)... How am I supposed to clean the chamber of the sump every 6 months as recommended? Do I just clean it while it's still in the sump? I would need to dismantle the entire tank to get it out of the cabinet in the stand if I have to remove it...yikes...??

This is confusing... I meant clean the reaction chamber of the PROTEIN SKIMMER... I won't be able to remove it from the sump due to space restrictions.
 
I don't ever clean the reaction chamber. Just shield it from light so it doesn't grow a ton of algae in it and it will be fine.
 
I don't ever clean the reaction chamber. Just shield it from light so it doesn't grow a ton of algae in it and it will be fine.

How do I shield it from the lamp going over the fuge right next to it?
 
Put something between the lamp and it. A piece of plastic, cardboard....something. Use your imagination. ;)

Lol simplicity at its finest... Guess I was just more concerned about the baffles being clear and emitting light through. I'll work on it!
 
Here's a question for you, and I'm sure everyone who has a close quarters sump can help answer... I have to drop my sump in from above (with the reef octo nwb150 in it and there's not a lot of room under there)... How am I supposed to clean the chamber of the sump every 6 months as recommended? Do I just clean it while it's still in the sump? I would need to dismantle the entire tank to get it out of the cabinet in the stand if I have to remove it...yikes...??

You can at least access it from doors, right?? I clean my sump that way. It isn't comfy, but it works. And I have a mini gravel vac that i suck detritus that gets in the bottom out. Sometimes if you can take the top off your skimmer as you should do every few days to once per week anyway, you may be able to get the skimmer out w/ the top chamber off. But yeah, I don't think you need to clean the bottom chamber that often. All's mine had was some minimal small white things, polychaete on it when I got it used w/ the tank & stock. My skimmer top chamber gets dirty pretty quick though! I've been cleaning that every 3 days or so. Good luck!!
 
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