Tested water tonight

[JMercer]

this test is of my 60 gallon FOWLR system w/ 70lbs of live rock.

Salinity 1.023 / 1.024 - Deep six Hydrometer
Calcium 500 ppm ( about 1 hr after dosing w/ purple up)
Carbonate Hardness (KH) 196.9 (11 dKH)
Phosphate 0 ppm
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite <.3
Nitrate 10 ppm
PH 7.7 (tetra test)

I know my PH is off, but i dont really trust this kit.. i have some PH Buffer 8.2 that i may use after i go tomorrow to my LFS to buy a better PH tester. Nitrite test kit is also Tetra Test (found it in closet).. All the rest is API tested. I had some diatom issues, it has cleared up, however i have powder type green algea all over the glass. I just did a water change about 3 days ago (5 gallons salt RO). Also tomorrow when i goto my LFS tomorrow what other test kits should i buy?

 

[fijiwigi]

How long has the tank been setup? Purple up is a waste of time IMO PWC will give you what you need for a fowlr tank. dosing is never really necessary unless you are trying to supplement for coral absorbtion Nitrite indicates your tank is still cycling and your calcium and (KH) are too high. PH should also be a bit higher but I would not be concerned with that at this time. ITs hard to tell what the causes are when you are dosing. What salt mix are you using?? dont Add PH buffer or anything for that matter just let things stabalize a bit for a while. Order your test kits online and you will save some cash. Salifert and API are good. You really don't need to test for anything else with a Fowlr but I would recommend a refractometer if you don't already have one its money well spent.

 

[JMercer]

about a month, i basically put the fish from my 29 gallon in a 60 gallon tall.. all the rock, sand, and media are preexisting. my 29 gallon had been established for over 2 years. I also buy premixed Saltwater from my LFS

 

[JMercer]

what is good kh and calcium levels? i dose purple up below suggested amount and only every 5 days (1 capful)

 

[fijiwigi]

KH should be between 105 to 125 MG/L Calcium should be under 460 IMO Check out this link http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

 

[melosu58]

Reef Aquarium Water Parameters by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

about a month, i basically put the fish from my 29 gallon in a 60 gallon tall.. all the rock, sand, and media are preexisting. my 29 gallon had been established for over 2 years. I also buy premixed Saltwater from my LFS

Transferring over the sand from your old tank most likely stirred up a bunch of nasties during the move. That's most likely why you're seeing nitrites... you're experiencing another cycle as the tank deals with the excess waste released from the sand bed.

And since you're cycling, that's why the pH numbers are probably a little wacky. As things calm down, your pH probably will too.

Also agree with fijiwigi to save the $ on the PurpleUp.

 

[JMercer]

ok... my tank is cycling... so just keep scraping off the green powder algea? Also it seems i have a blue damsel missing, i dont see him or his body! should i move everything around to recover him or just leave it be?

 

[fijiwigi]

ok... my tank is cycling... so just keep scraping off the green powder algea? Also it seems i have a blue damsel missing, i dont see him or his body! should i move everything around to recover him or just leave it be?

Just let him be unless you can see him without tearing apart your tank. I have had fish go missing and never found them

 

[JMercer]

Didnt know if he died and remained in the tank if he would cause a spike in ammonia or nitrite?

 

[jonboyb]

Regarding your Tetra pH test, I have had BAD results with mine. I kept increasing pH at first so the Tetra read in the 8.2-8.3 range but when I took a sample in to my LFS, my pH was 8.8

After that, I bought both the Red Sea and API pH tests, both of which read 8.2-8.4 when the Tetra shows 7.7. Maybe someone else will chime in on the Tetra brand, but I'm wary after that episode.