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Old 05-04-2009, 04:52 PM   #11
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Dont use strips, please do not use strips, they are off by up to 40ppm.

Want a good place that does fantastic work and specializes in salt water

sea escapes out of south elgin,il. depending where you are its around a 2 hour drive however these guys have been in the business forever and continue to be one of the leading SW suppliers in the chicagoland area.
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Old 05-04-2009, 06:28 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by thincat View Post
Lets get some basic information.
1) what are your readings on your tank water
a) Ammonia
b) Nitrite
c) Nitrate
d) PH
e) Salinity
f) Size of thank
g) how old is the tank
This will help us to hone in on the problem or problems
A=0
B=.5
C=10
D=7.2
E=1.022 Refractometer
F=90 gallon with 20 gallon sump with protein skimmer
G= 4+ months old.

I use the reef kit for testing.

Rich
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Old 05-04-2009, 06:36 PM   #13
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So this isn't the first time? How many fish have you lost over what time period? Obviously, there could be hundreds of different reasons your fish are dying, but maybe we can home in on some possible reasons.

Are the fish that are dying the newest ones put in? If so, how long do they last? And are you quarantining the fish before putting them in the main tank?

[Edit: Looking back at your previous post at the end of March... did you ever positively cycle the tank? Looks like back then you were putting fish into an uncycled tank. That'll kill 'em every time.]

Yes I cycled the tank with two large raw shrimp tails. I had a spike then all went well for quite some time. I cycled on 3/22/09.
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:20 AM   #14
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when i had a fowlr that happened to me once but instead all my fish died except the pair of clowns it happened overnight. even my damsel died which its still a mystery to my to this day. i dont think no one will figure this one out.
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:22 AM   #15
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You should not have any readings on your nitrite test. Nitrite is deadly to fish even in small amounts. Don't add any more fish untill that level is at 0 and stays that way for at least a week. Your PH is a little low, but not the major concern at the moment. Also you can raise your SG a bit to at least 1.025
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:54 AM   #16
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Incorrect, NO2 (nitrite) is lethal to freshwater fish in small increments. Acute toxicity doesn't seem to affect saltwater fish and even invertebrates until 100ppm. For the most part, NH3 and NO2 are quickly converted anyways so unless cycling or barring a major disaster I see no problem with the numbers. Have you tried purchasing from a different source?
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:18 AM   #17
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Don't think it has anything to do w/ the low PH? Though I guess you would expect any PH shock to happen right away. I can't imagine the lfs is operating at a PH of 7.2, 1.022 maybe but 7.2?
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:02 PM   #18
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Don't think it has anything to do w/ the low PH? Though I guess you would expect any PH shock to happen right away. I can't imagine the lfs is operating at a PH of 7.2, 1.022 maybe but 7.2?

The PH has been at this level since I've started. I've heard the things you add to raise it only last a short time. Is there a better method to raise the PH than the solutions I've heard of?

Rich
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:08 PM   #19
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I was less commenting on the PH you have but instead the difference between what i consider you very low PH (and border line salinity as well) and that of the LFS where you bought the fish. Given that it's been weeks it's probably not germane but it still must be an acclimation shock.

With PH , it depends on when you take the readings, if you have an open tank or lids, etc. Always take the reading at the same time of day, preferably after lights out (I believe). I haven't tested for PH in so long I can't remember for sure
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:39 PM   #20
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It's with the lights on, the PH goes down after lights out. Plants don't use O2 at night. They give off CO2 at night. So PH goes down at night normally. you want to check it a few hours after lights come on.
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