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#1 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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stages
what do additional stages get you in an [acronym:51ea5e0031="Reverse osmosis"]ro[/acronym:51ea5e0031]/[acronym:51ea5e0031="Deionization"]di[/acronym:51ea5e0031] unit?
is it just faster production, or a purer product? |
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#2 |
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
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I'm not sure exactly sure how to answer your question. If you mean vs. a [acronym:3acca6a4e2="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:3acca6a4e2]-only unit, then the [acronym:3acca6a4e2="Deionization"]DI[/acronym:3acca6a4e2] provides a final purification step and removes cations and anions that the [acronym:3acca6a4e2="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:3acca6a4e2] membrane cannot. The [acronym:3acca6a4e2="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:3acca6a4e2] is a filter that rejects foreign matter based on size, not chemical identity. Anions and cations can pass through the membrane.
The sediment filter is essential to keep the rocks and boulders from clogging up your membrane. The carbon is to remove organics and chlorine (which can kill your membrane). Did that address your question? Norm Webmaster http://aquariumwaterfilters.com |
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#3 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Moderator
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It sounds then that the additional stages simply add progressively finer filter mediums. Is that the case?
__________________
Acronyms and Abbreviations |
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#4 |
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
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No. Each stage of the filter does a different kind of filtering. May I suggest you read our article at http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/...ilter_FAQ.html to get a better feel on what componet does what kind of filtering
Norm |
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#5 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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do 50 GPD Membrains reject finer particles than say a 100 GPD Membrain? and how often should you replace the cartridges? my incoming tds is 160 [acronym:51742d532b="Parts per Million"]ppm[/acronym:51742d532b].
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#6 |
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
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The flow rate of the membranes does not really influence the quality of the permeate as much as the quality of the membrane and the manufacturer. That is why we offer only DOW membranes in our [acronym:87f6b91df4="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:87f6b91df4]/[acronym:87f6b91df4="Deionization"]DI[/acronym:87f6b91df4] units. We have tested other membranes and we keep coming back to DOW. Check our our library article on Reverse Osmosis Membranes at http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/...y/Library.html for more information.
For cartridge changing recommendations look at a paper on that topic in the library as well. You have really low incoming TDS as I do so I would expect your membrane to last 2-3 years and your [acronym:87f6b91df4="Deionization"]DI[/acronym:87f6b91df4] to last several months. I am working on 2 years and I have not noticed a significant change in my membrane pressure (I hope you have a pressure gauge). I replace my sediment and carbon about every 6-months when the sediment filter starts to get beige. Norm Webmaster http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com |
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#7 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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ok so I geuss I'm getting close to needing some cartridges. Q: 1 micron is smaller (better) than say 10 microns? and I'm still not sure how the flush kit works. Does it push water back thru the wast line (yellow)? I do have a gauge. It is on the line going IN to the membrain, is that right? It reads about 80 psi. is that a good psi? My pre filter isn't beigh, its yellow maybe even yellow brown, does it need to be changed ya think? that and the carbon block. the filter was taking a good beating right after the water came back up following the great power outage in the summer here in the northeast. Thanks for your help.
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#8 |
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
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Yes, 1 micron is smaller than 10 micron and thus filters out much more junk so it does not clog up your carbon or membrane.
A flush kit bypasses the restriction in the waste line that provides back pressure to the membrane. By reducing this back pressure you are washing crud off the membrane surface. Check out our short article at http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com/...y/Library.html. There is also an article there on when to change [acronym:499b2e1132="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:499b2e1132]/[acronym:499b2e1132="Deionization"]DI[/acronym:499b2e1132] components. 80 psi is getting up there and I would consider changing it soon. My pressure gauge has a safe operating range of 40-100 psi. Do you know what membrane you have? How old is it? What is the TDS coming out of the membrane? (I love my dual in-line TDS meter as I can check my membrane's efficiency in a instant.) If your TDS out of the membrane is much above 15, I would change it. If you are concerned about your carbon block then I would change it along with the pre-filter - they are cheap enough. If any chlorine got past the chlorine filter it could have damaged the membrane. Why do you think it took a beating after the power outage? If you do get a replacement membrane, make sure you change the carbon and sediment filters. If you order from us, the 1-micron is the same price as the 10 micron, so if you have good inlet water pressure, I would go for the 1 micron. Norm Webmaster http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com |
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#9 | |||||
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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#10 |
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
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Inside the yellow hose is a restrictor. It may be difficult to spot, but it is there. Otherwise, your membrane would not work. Usually it is at the beginning/end of the line so it may be hidden by a union or connector.
Sounds like your membrane is fine. If you notice your pressure climbing, look to find out why - it could be a membrane or pre filters. The membrane outlet TDS is a great indicator of membrane performance. If it were me, I'd change my prefilter. Since you are at 4 months, you may as well change the carbon while you are at it. Shameless plug: We have great prices on these cartridges. Norm Webmaster http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com |
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