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Old 02-21-2013, 10:08 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by cinnamonpearl View Post
move the goldfish into the 55 gallon asap. That many goldfish will quickly over pollute a 20 and cause an ammonia spike. You should wait to get the rest of them until you can use the 55.
Goldfish don't eat plants. You're thinking of koi.
well i get paid at the end of the month. If its a real emergency i can buy a stand with that money. So then the fish will only be in the 20 gal for about 9- 12 days. But while they are in the small tank i will do a frequent water change, i think about twice a week. And filter change once a week.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:23 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by tabbykat9698 View Post
personally i would take them all back. Plan your tank after doing your research on everything and then getting new fish. When you get your 55 gal setup go for the goldfish. But there are so many things you can do with a 20 gal. I have freshwater puffers in mine. It is my joy. But it was mostly planned (blame the ex for some random fish but everyone is ok and been fine for 3 years). Research cycling and don't buy any fish until knowing about the cycle. You have to get the test kit. The liquid master kit i got was only like $20 and it is totally worth it and lasts forever. Also if money is ever an issue--save up and get everything you need before impulse buying. Believe me it will be a lot better (you will read these forums and be like oh man i shoulda done that! Lol) good luck and i hope everything works out for you!
i cant take them back, i love them already!
And i think i know the basics. Just change the water and filter as often as possible. Feed them once every 2 days to minimize the amount of waste they produce. Like i said they wont be in the small tank too long. I plan to get a stand and have them in the big tank by next month now. They are going to be very small goldfish. I ordered the smallest. I don't have the kit but i can get it soon too.

And my brother in law had a puffer. Do you mean the little brownish ones with the bright green spots? Those are adorable they look like little frogs. And i thought after puffers get a little bigger they need salt water. Is that true?
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:30 AM   #13
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well as i stated i'm no expert on goldfish so they may or may not eat particular plants. However the uprooting is a problem (i've personally witnessed it). As far as the upgrade is concerned if the fish are currently small enough you could get away with the 20 gallon for a while in my opinion as long as the filtration is strong and the water changes are large and frequent.
hey eric! I bought the plants. Only two though. I think they are called java fern. I put them in the pots like i said. They look great. They are small right now, only like 4-6 inch tall but i hope they grow up to be big and beautiful. I also bought a light for the tank it looks amazing because i got everything in clear glass. Like the stones i bought are the flat marbles, blue in color. And the pots are a clear glass purple. Its so pretty i just want to die.

I couldn't buy more plants because then i wouldn't have had enough molla to get the light. But i will get more plants. After the transfer to the 55 gal.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:53 AM   #14
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Ok, few things here to help straighten out the confusion. Have you been adding an ammonia source daily to this tank? If not, your tank has yet to even begin the cycling process. You are now just beginning a fish-in cycle with fish that do not handle cycling very well. You will need to test your water daily (preferably, twice daily) and do 50% water changes anytime your ammonia and/or nitrite hit .25ppm or higher. This will likely mean daily or more frequent water changes. With two goldfish in a 20g, toxins will spike quickly. I highly suggest investing in a good liquid test kit such as the API fw master test kit and a bottle of Prime to help limit toxicity between water changes.

Next, do not change your filter media. Do not even touch it right now until this tank is fully cycled (which will take 4-8+wks) unless it becomes very clogged. If this happens, just swish it around in some used tank water to remove debris. Do not rinse it in tap water. You want to keep your filter media literally until its falling apart because it contains the largest portion of your good bacteria.

Feeding juvenile fancies every other day is not a good idea. Although it may minimize ammonia output, you are at risk of stunting them because this basically is a starvation diet. Juveniles do the majority of their growth in the first two years of life until reaching sexual maturity but goldfish will continue to grow throughout their entire life as long as they have adequate water and space.

Heres some more info on goldfish and their care as well as a link to fish-in cycling- please ask any questions!

I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice

http://www.myaquariumclub.com/goldfi...-11174823.html
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:13 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by jlk View Post
ok, few things here to help straighten out the confusion. Have you been adding an ammonia source daily to this tank? If not, your tank has yet to even begin the cycling process. You are now just beginning a fish-in cycle with fish that do not handle cycling very well. You will need to test your water daily (preferably, twice daily) and do 50% water changes anytime your ammonia and/or nitrite hit .25ppm or higher. This will likely mean daily or more frequent water changes. With two goldfish in a 20g, toxins will spike quickly. I highly suggest investing in a good liquid test kit such as the api fw master test kit and a bottle of prime to help limit toxicity between water changes.

Next, do not change your filter media. Do not even touch it right now until this tank is fully cycled (which will take 4-8+wks) unless it becomes very clogged. If this happens, just swish it around in some used tank water to remove debris. Do not rinse it in tap water. You want to keep your filter media literally until its falling apart because it contains the largest portion of your good bacteria.

Feeding juvenile fancies every other day is not a good idea. Although it may minimize ammonia output, you are at risk of stunting them because this basically is a starvation diet. Juveniles do the majority of their growth in the first two years of life until reaching sexual maturity but goldfish will continue to grow throughout their entire life as long as they have adequate water and space.

Heres some more info on goldfish and their care as well as a link to fish-in cycling- please ask any questions!

i just learned about cycling but i already have fish. What now?! - aquarium advice

http://www.myaquariumclub.com/goldfi...-11174823.html

oh my gosh okay. Thank you so much.

I guess the answer is no i did not add daily ammonia, so my tank is just beginning to cycle as of two days ago. (when i got the fish) i guess ill have to put the kit sooner than i thought. You made it sound very super important. And do not change the filter, okay. I wont. And don't get ... -sob- ... My new fish till 4-6 weeks pass. And ill feed my fish more, i don't want them to be short. Like me.

Just one more question. Once i begin to move them into the 55 gal. Will i need to to the cycle thing all over again? Or can i mix the 20 gal water in with the new water?
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:26 AM   #16
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As soon as you are able to get the 55g set up, move your fish over. A 55g will be much more forgiving in a fish-in cycle as more water equals more dilute toxin levels. You can move the media from the 20g filter into the new 55g filter(s) to help seed the new tank with bacteria. Or just move the filter from the 20g to 55g and run all of the filters together. Water holds very little bacteria so using the water from the 20g will not be very helpful.

Until you are able to invest in a liquid test kit (amazon has them inexpensively), I would suggest a 50% water change daily with temperature matched, properly conditioned water. If you notice your fish acting strangely (bottom sitting, floating, gasping at the surface, not eating, anything unusual), do another 50% water change to reduce toxin levels.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:46 AM   #17
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as soon as you are able to get the 55g set up, move your fish over. A 55g will be much more forgiving in a fish-in cycle as more water equals more dilute toxin levels. You can move the media from the 20g filter into the new 55g filter(s) to help seed the new tank with bacteria. Or just move the filter from the 20g to 55g and run all of the filters together. Water holds very little bacteria so using the water from the 20g will not be very helpful.

Until you are able to invest in a liquid test kit (amazon has them inexpensively), i would suggest a 50% water change daily with temperature matched, properly conditioned water. If you notice your fish acting strangely (bottom sitting, floating, gasping at the surface, not eating, anything unusual), do another 50% water change to reduce toxin levels.
i plan to run the 20 gal filter and buy a new 55 gal filter and run them all together. I heard you cant have enough filters with goldfish. Before this whole change of tank. Ill keep an eye on my fish and make sure they are acting normally. Do a water change daily if i can every 2 days if i cant.

Thank you so much for your advice you have been very helpful. And really opened my eyes to how much work having a simple goldfish tank can really be. I'm wondering how everyone handles it with all the exotic fish they have.

Annnnd another question!!!
When i get the 55 gal filter how do i "baby" proof it so that my bubble eye's little sack-things wont get sucked into the filter and pop! That is my number 1 fear.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:07 PM   #18
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On the 55g, your going to need either a big canister or two hob-type filters. I run over 1000gph combined on my 55g's between big hob's and powerheads with sponges. 550gph (gallons per hour) or 10x the tank size is recommended for a goldfish tank. I do cover the intakes on the filter tubes with filter foam (aq sponge) because of the risk of delicate eyes or fins being injured or sucked into the intakes. Make sure there is nothing pointed, jagged, tight (ie, a cave) or sharp (including plastic plants) because bubbles are very easily injured.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:23 PM   #19
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It's a lot of work( or as us hobbyists call it "fun") getting a new tank up and running. Once it is setup and ready though it is just regular water changes with gravel vac'ing and feeding. But as most on here can attest to, you will find yourself constantly tinkering and making changes.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:37 PM   #20
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