Hello, New Member Here!

[Mumma.of.two]

That's so weird because I order flea and tick meds for my dogs and they get shipped cheaper from Australia than from anywhere here. Go figure. Hey Mumma, maybe you could start importing on a large scale for yourself and other hobbyists to get cheaper stuff, haha. Maybe it could pay for your fish stuff.

Very tempting! The Aussie dollar is something like $1.08US at the moment. the problem with electrical items is the voltage and plugs. You guys are on 110? We are on 240v.

 

[kr8zykelley]

scott let me know how that light fixture does when u get it and put it on ur tank! bc I was wondering how that work with those little feet it has on it ...Have u ordered it yet?

 

[Michelleinchicago]

I would highly recommend an AquaClear filter, instead of the one that came with your tank. They are magic when it comes to bio filtration. And, they're super cheap to maintain, as all of the filter media are sold separately and each cost just a couple of dollars (depending on what size filter you get).

 

[scottb]

Haha! I'm surprised I'm not!

More power to you!

 

[scottb]

scott let me know how that light fixture does when u get it and put it on ur tank! bc I was wondering how that work with those little feet it has on it ...Have u ordered it yet?

Yes, I ordered it last night, so it should ship out today. I'm also interested in how it will work/look with the legs, since its shorter than the length of my tank. But, I only plan to use the legs if I feel that there is too much light. Having the option to raise (with legs) or lower (without legs) the light intensity, so to say, is nice to have. I'll take some pics once I get it and its all set up. Chose not to go with the 30" because I noticed that if you use the legs on the frame, then you have to have an open tank, or you could make a custom one yourself I guess. Do we have the same tank?

 

[scottb]

I would highly recommend an AquaClear filter, instead of the one that came with your tank. They are magic when it comes to bio filtration. And, they're super cheap to maintain, as all of the filter media are sold separately and each cost just a couple of dollars (depending on what size filter you get).

Yes, I agree. Not only do many members on AA own and use them, but like you said so yourself, cheap to maintain. I also love having the option to customize the filtration and water flow. I plan to get an AC70, remove all the filter media from my QuietFlow10, and cram it in the 70. This will run along my Aqueon QuietFlow 30 in my 36g.

Also, I plan to run 2 sponges and biomax, instead of the carbon. I just keep reading that carbon is good mainly for removing meds. And a lot of members don't use the carbon as well. What's your experience with this? Oh, and thanks for the post!

 

[scottb]

UPDATE: All 6 of my Rasboras seem happy and healthy . I tested my water today and here were my results. (STILL CYCLING)

pH = 8.2
Ammonia = 0.50 ppm
NitrIte = 0.25 ppm
NitrAte = 10 ppm

The NitrAte level seemed off to me, so I tested my tap water. I tested water that's been sitting out for a few days now. Not sure if this has an impact on my results...

Results from the tap

pH = 8.2 (same as tank)
Ammonia = 0.50 ppm (same as tank)
NitrIte = 0 ppm
NitrAte = 10 ppm (same as tank)

Hmmm......something is wrong here. I shouldn't be reading the same levels for Ammonia in my tank, AND my tap. And if I'm reading 10 ppm for NitrAtes in my tap, then should I just assume this to be 0 ppm? And if this is the case, will I ALWAYS have to read 10 ppm as zero? And same goes for my ammonia levels. Will they drop to zero regardless, once my tank is fully cycled? I'm so confused by this! Anyone able to shed some knowledge on me?

 

[scottb]

I took some pictures of the Ammonia and NitrAte tests from my tap. Sorry about the quality, all I have is my phone.

Ammonia

 

[scottb]

here are the rest, sorry.

Ammonia


NitrAte

 

[Mumma.of.two]

UPDATE: All 6 of my Rasboras seem happy and healthy . I tested my water today and here were my results. (STILL CYCLING)

pH = 8.2
Ammonia = 0.50 ppm
NitrIte = 0.25 ppm
NitrAte = 10 ppm

The NitrAte level seemed off to me, so I tested my tap water. I tested water that's been sitting out for a few days now. Not sure if this has an impact on my results...

Results from the tap

pH = 8.2 (same as tank)
Ammonia = 0.50 ppm (same as tank)
NitrIte = 0 ppm
NitrAte = 10 ppm (same as tank)

Hmmm......something is wrong here. I shouldn't be reading the same levels for Ammonia in my tank, AND my tap. And if I'm reading 10 ppm for NitrAtes in my tap, then should I just assume this to be 0 ppm? And if this is the case, will I ALWAYS have to read 10 ppm as zero? And same goes for my ammonia levels. Will they drop to zero regardless, once my tank is fully cycled? I'm so confused by this! Anyone able to shed some knowledge on me?

I see you have some nitrIte! The ammonia is starting to get converted. When the tank is completely cycled you will have 0 ammonia (except maybe a little but right after a water change from the tap) because the bacteria will 'convert' the ammonia from the fish and the tap quickly.
Don't expect the nitrate to be 0 if you have it in your tap but everything else will be. I would keep testing the tap water periodically to see what it contains. Tap water, especially nitrate can change daily/weekly. Just remember it will be a "0" in your mind as in it won't get any lower BUT it still is 10ppm nitrate.

 

[scottb]

I see you have some nitrIte! The ammonia is starting to get converted. When the tank is completely cycled you will have 0 ammonia (except maybe a little but right after a water change from the tap) because the bacteria will 'convert' the ammonia from the fish and the tap quickly.
Don't expect the nitrate to be 0 if you have it in your tap but everything else will be. I would keep testing the tap water periodically to see what it contains. Tap water, especially nitrate can change daily/weekly. Just remember it will be a "0" in your mind as in it won't get any lower BUT it still is 10ppm nitrate.

Thank you! So basically my NitrAte levels aren't considered too high until I read about 50ppm since I have 10ppm in my tap right? And yes, NitrItes woohoo!

 

[Mumma.of.two]

Thank you! So basically my NitrAte levels aren't considered too high until I read about 50ppm since I have 10ppm in my tap right? And yes, NitrItes woohoo!

Well, high is high no matter where you start. 40ppm is 40ppm no matter if it came from tap or fish. It means when cycling if you see 10ppm it means it's from the tap but if you see 20ppm you are getting 10ppm from tap and 10ppm from fish/tank. So the tap 10ppm is '0' when it comes to watching the nitrate from the cycle/fish produce. Make sense?

 

[scottb]

Well, high is high no matter where you start. 40ppm is 40ppm no matter if it came from tap or fish. It means when cycling if you see 10ppm it means it's from the tap but if you see 20ppm you are getting 10ppm from tap and 10ppm from fish/tank. So the tap 10ppm is '0' when it comes to watching the nitrate from the cycle/fish produce. Make sense?

I think so. So when my tank is fully cycled, can I ignore the readings from my tap, and simply go with what my tank reads?

 

[Mumma.of.two]

I think so. So when my tank is fully cycled, can I ignore the readings from my tap, and simply go with what my tank reads?

I'm sorry I'm being so confusing!
Yes, ammonia or nitrIte in tap water won't matter because your bacteria colony will grow to accommodate it.
NitrAte will matter a bit. Because you are removing nitrate but also putting some back in with the new tap water. That's something to be aware of. Nothing to worry about you will just need larger more frequent water changes to keep it low.
Eg: the tank reads 40ppm. You do a 50% water change removing 20ppm BUT because your tap contains 10ppm you are adding 10ppm back in. Your tank will read 30ppm.

 

[scottb]

I'm sorry I'm being so confusing!
Yes, ammonia or nitrIte in tap water won't matter because your bacteria colony will grow to accommodate it.
NitrAte will matter a bit. Because you are removing nitrate but also putting some back in with the new tap water. That's something to be aware of. Nothing to worry about you will just need larger more frequent water changes to keep it low.
Eg: the tank reads 40ppm. You do a 50% water change removing 20ppm BUT because your tap contains 10ppm you are adding 10ppm back in. Your tank will read 30ppm.

No, no. Not being confusing, I'm just trying to make sure I understood correctly. Thanks so much for the explanation!

 

[Mumma.of.two]

No problem! Glad my rants make sense

 

[scottb]

UPDATE: got my plants in the mail today! Just planted them for now, I'll more than likely end up rescaping eventually. But here's what it looks like, as of now. Comments?



The only issue I'm noticing is that the longer plants like the vals and swords are being pulled towards the filter tubes. Any way of solving this, without using a sponge?

 

[Mumma.of.two]

UPDATE: got my plants in the mail today! Just planted them for now, I'll more than likely end up rescaping eventually. But here's what it looks like, as of now. Comments?

I like it! Its going to look great when they fill out a bit.

 

[scottb]

I like it! Its going to look great when they fill out a bit.

Yea, can't wait. I know I'll be checking them everyday for growth haha. Any suggestions on keeping the filter tubes from pulling my swords towards them? Besides using a sponge?

 

[Mumma.of.two]

Yea, can't wait. I know I'll be checking them everyday for growth haha. Any suggestions on keeping the filter tubes from pulling my swords towards them? Besides using a sponge?

Different positioning? That's one thing I take into consideration when planting a tank. All my tanks are over filtered so the flow is quite strong.