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Old 02-02-2012, 07:20 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottb

Mumma - Thanks for clearing that up for me. Can you imagine, me doing daily 100% water changes, for who knows how long, trying to get my ammonia down to 0ppm, when I would have never got there! Well, if all reads the same after a few hours, I plan to go get some fish today. Will be some species of Tetra.

QUESTION: How much Prime should I dose in a 48 hour period? To my best guess I have anywhere between 30-32gallons of water in my 36g tank. Does this sound right? And since my tap is at 0.25ppm Ammonia, should I be worried if it read 0.5ppm, or when it reads 1.0ppm? Thanks!
So the way I see it during the cycle .25ppm is '0', so .5ppm is .25ppm and so on. You want to still keep ammonia as low as possible (in your case .25ppm) with water changes like if your tap water doesn't have ammonia. Dosing the whole tank with prime every water change should be enough (unless it's more than 2 days between water changes which I doubt). You don't have to be exact with the prime. Dosing the tank like it has 40g of water will be fine. I have a 150L I dose like its 200L just because one cap is for 200L and I'm too lazy to measure out the exact amount. Prime can be safely dosed at 5x the normal amount.
I hope that makes sense!!
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:55 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by Mumma.of.two

So the way I see it during the cycle .25ppm is '0', so .5ppm is .25ppm and so on. You want to still keep ammonia as low as possible (in your case .25ppm) with water changes like if your tap water doesn't have ammonia. Dosing the whole tank with prime every water change should be enough (unless it's more than 2 days between water changes which I doubt). You don't have to be exact with the prime. Dosing the tank like it has 40g of water will be fine. I have a 150L I dose like its 200L just because one cap is for 200L and I'm too lazy to measure out the exact amount. Prime can be safely dosed at 5x the normal amount.
I hope that makes sense!!
This makes total sense. Basically, if I read 1.0ppm, it's the same thing as reading 0.5ppm since my tap contains 0.25ppm of Ammonia. And yes, I will just guestimate on the Prime. Will update as soon as I test my water again. Should be in a few hours.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:00 PM   #133
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yeah I will check around for the T5 I thought maybe u had gotten one poor thing breakin ur other light caseing... that is what I was trying to get out with my other explanation!! lol my 0 act reads .5ppm thats how I know

did u end of picking up any fish or u are waiting?
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:00 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottb

This makes total sense. Basically, if I read 1.0ppm, it's the same thing as reading 0.5ppm since my tap contains 0.25ppm of Ammonia. And yes, I will just guestimate on the Prime. Will update as soon as I test my water again. Should be in a few hours.
So if it's reading 1ppm, 0.75 came from the fish and 0.25ppm came from the tap. the tank still has 1ppm total of ammonia in it though so just be aware of that.
Keep us posted!
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:14 PM   #135
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Also I should mention. If your tank has 1ppm of ammonia and you do a 50% water change you are only bringing it down to .75ppm because you are removing half/.5ppm but replacing .25ppm.

When your tank is fully cycled it would be a good idea to do two smaller water changes a week rather than one large one. This way a smaller amount of ammonia is being introduced to the tank and the bacteria will handle it better.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:07 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by Mumma.of.two
Also I should mention. If your tank has 1ppm of ammonia and you do a 50% water change you are only bringing it down to .75ppm because you are removing half/.5ppm but replacing .25ppm.

When your tank is fully cycled it would be a good idea to do two smaller water changes a week rather than one large one. This way a smaller amount of ammonia is being introduced to the tank and the bacteria will handle it better.
Got it, thanks. The way I see it, as long as I test my water frequently and make sure my ammonia levels don't spike beyond 1ppm, all my fish should be alive and happy!

QUESTION: when dosing with Prime during a water change, should I add the amount needed to treat the tap water, and then add more?
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:13 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by kr8zykelley
yeah I will check around for the T5 I thought maybe u had gotten one poor thing breakin ur other light caseing... that is what I was trying to get out with my other explanation!! lol my 0 act reads .5ppm thats how I know

did u end of picking up any fish or u are waiting?
kelley - I actually only replaced the stock bulb with a Coralife 50/50. It's still a 17w T8. I plan to upgrade in the future, once my tank is fully cycled and has been running successfully for awhile. And yea, sucks that I cracked my hood, but I bought a Versa Top all glass good that was under $35 including shipping! Should be getting it in a week or so.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:15 PM   #138
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Just add enough to treat the whole tank.
This is what I do with all my larger tanks.
Turn off filters and heater
Drain water
Add prime to dose whole volume of the tank
Add temperature matched water
Wait 5-10 minutes to make sure prime has worked
Turn on filters and heater
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:17 PM   #139
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UPDATE: after testing my tank water, as well as my tap, I have decided I am good for fish. I was leaning towards Longfin Zebra Danios, but settled on 5 Harlequin Rasboras instead (hope this isn't too many). One thing I noticed is that 2 of them seem to have a lighter shade of the "triangle" towards their back fin. I wonder if this is just due to stress or of its an illness. Anyone have any similar experiences here?
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:18 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by mumma.of.two
just add enough to treat the whole tank.
This is what i do with all my larger tanks.
Turn off filters and heater
drain water
add prime to dose whole volume of the tank
add temperature matched water
wait 5-10 minutes to make sure prime has worked
turn on filters and heater
thank you!
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