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[ReefKnot]

Hi, my name's Mike. I started my first saltwater tank in early november. It is a 29g tank, fairly tall but not very deep. I went through a 5 week cycling process, but was interrupted by having surgery. By the time I went home, the cycling process had finished. Over the past 3 weeks I've added 30 lb's of live rock, 2 false percula both fairly small still, 1 scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp, 6 snails and 2 blue legged hermit crabs, which are also very young.

I see everyone post about pH and gravity and stuff, but could someone explain all of the chemical levels and why you check them? I just have 2 different bottles of chems, which my LFS provided me, and told me to use a specific amount, on certain days. And any water tests can be done there for me, for free. So I didn't see the point in spending money on test stuff at this point of time.

I regularly go on google to find answers about stuff for my tank, and this site always comes up, so I figured I should join. Looking forward to meeting you all, and learning from you, because I'll be honest, I have no idea whats happening sometimes. Thanks.

 

[six2sevenproductions]

A test kit is probably the most important thing to buy. It will let you understand most of your problems. Local fish stores sometimes test with strips which are not accurate. You should not add chemicals which you are not testing for. Otherwise you will not know how much to add and might be causing problems yourself. With regular water changes (10% weekly or 20% bi-weekly), the needed elements will be added with the new water.

 

[ReefKnot]

Actually thats not really a problem... Its a mixed bottle of chemicals designed for reef tanks, and you use a capful so you always get the same amount... and they test with a few machines... its a high end LFS.... only one in town, but they dont use strips... I take my water to be tested regularly, my question was more, what do these tests report? like what does gravity mean?

 

[ReefKnot]

Additionally, you're adding the chemicals on a set schedule, so its extremely reliable, from what I understand

 

[six2sevenproductions]

I take my water to be tested regularly, my question was more, what do these tests report? like what does gravity mean?

Gravity is salinity of the water. It measures how much salt is in the water. Online you will see a range from 1.022 to 1.026. Having your water tested by someone else is not guaranteed because they just might tell you your water is fine and not the actual specs. Did they give you the numbers? If so can you please list them so that we may be better help. These tests report the actual numbers of your water. The numbers can tell you where you stand and research can tell you where you need to be.

A nitrates reading can be 15ppm which not entirely dangerous for fish so your fish guy can tell you your water is fine although the goal is zero.

Ammonia- ?
Nitrite - ?
nitrate- ?
Phosphate - ?
Calcium - ?
Salinity-?
Alkalinity- ?

 

[six2sevenproductions]

Since i havent mentioned it, welcome to AA. Some people can seen rude on here but they are just trying to help. Its like that annoying IT guy at work who thinks he knows everything lol. They will be the first to tell you not to do this and not to do that but its because they have learned from those mistakes and are trying to keep you from making the same mistakes.

So when you get a chance post the numbers so that we may help in the next step. Remember, water changes are your best friend.

 

[melosu58]

Welcome aboard.

 

[ReefKnot]

Ok well they keep it recorded on paper at the store. I was going to take a sample in tomorrow, so i'll write the numbers down.

I dont really know how evryone else deals with their LFS, or why people might tell you false numbers, but I'm from a small community, the story is family owned and run, and they have never encouraged me to buy things that are not necessary for my tank. They said not to worry about buying test kits from them, because I can bring it into them for free. So why would I be told false numbers?

I'll get back with some numbers

 

[six2sevenproductions]

I dont think they would give you false numbers purposely. Some lfs have employees who do not know what they are doing or are triained incorrectly. That sounds like a nice store you got there.

 

[ReefKnot]

yeah its fantastic. I couldn't imagine dealing with anyone else. They walked me through the entire cycling process step by step, week by week as I went along, and told me what inverts to start with, and pretty much anything I needed help with as I went. They have a system, complete with written instructions on starting a tank. Anytime I have any question I can call. They do this with their entire clientelle... And they dont try to brainwash people into thinking they need unnecessary crap... Downside is it is a little expensive, but I live in Northern Ontario, so it costs alot to get stuff up here...

What test kits should I look at getting? I'm guessing you're all going to say all of them, but what are the important ones? The ones I'm most likely to need... I take my water to be tested regularly, so if I can avoid spending money on non-essential tests, I'd like too.... And at the moment I do not have any live corals. Just rock, 2 clowns, a shrimp, 2 crabs and some snails...

 

[six2sevenproductions]

All of them lol

Well it depends if you plan on keeping corals or just fish. With fish only the numbers do not have to be percise, just close. API brand test kits are usually cheaper. They sell a sw kmarine kit which includes about 4 or 5 different tests for like 40 bucks. Its an investment worth buying. It will beat going to the fish store all the time even if it is free.

The tests you will be keeping track of most often is probably, nitrate, PH, alkalinity and salinity. Once your tank is really established the nitrite and ammonia levels should stay at zero. Nitrates will continue to go up and regular water changes with bring those numbers down.

pH and alkalinity go hand in hand. Testing ph is important for the heath of the fish. PH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity in the water. You want to keep it at 7.6 to 8.4 preferably 8.0 to 8.4.

Achieving a stable ph can be accomplished by maintaining the alkalinity level. This should be 8-12 dkh

Your salinity should be 1.022 - 1.026. Water changes should be made with saltwater but topped off with freshwater daily to maintain the correct salinity level.

 

[ReefKnot]

OK Cool, good to know. I do water changes regularly, with salt water, and at the moment I only have fish in the tank, but I plan to add corals once the time with the light on has gotten to a point that the tank can sustain coral. My LFS uses a system that increases how long I have the light on weekly. At the moment, I have the light on for 7-7.5 hours, so within 2-3 weeks I will start thinking about coral.

Does gradually increasing the time the light is on over a number of weeks make a difference? I dont really understand that... But thanks for the testing information. When I take a water sample in tomorrow, I'll check out the numbers, and have my guy clarify things for me. He is as concerned for his customers' tanks as they are, so I have faith he isn't letting "good enough" be his standard

 

[six2sevenproductions]

It makes a difference when you are acclimating corals to new lighting. What types of lighting do you have? How many total watts?

 

[thincat]

How do you measure your salinity of your water for your PWC (Parcial water changing)? You should get a refractometer to measure the salt content of you water changes.

 

[ReefKnot]

I dont know the total watts, but they are plenty powerful.... they are really big, bright and cost $300... My guy said they are perfectly fine for coral and anemones.... I talked to him about it today. And my numbers are all at 0, and gravity is 1.022... All appears to run just fine with my guy's system

 

[ReefKnot]

the lighting time question I had was answered by my guy, and as for salt levels in water changes, when there was nothing in the tank, even substrate, I first added the water and salt at a specific ratio of 1/2 cup salt per gallon. Knowing that, when I take out 3 gallons of saltwater for a water change, and add 3 gallons of saltwater that I mixed the night before at 1/2 cup salt per gallon and let cure; my salt level will be exactly the same, because I keep the tank at a exact volume, and salt does not evaporate. With allowance for salt creep taken into consideration.

From what I understand, since my tank is still fairly immature, certain levels do not have to be deadly accurate at the moment, and since my LFS has shown me my numbers are all bang on, I'd say i'm doing alright for now. Once I start adding corals and an anemone, I will look at using some of these things.

 

[six2sevenproductions]

Plenty powerful for what?

Are they power compacts? T5s? Metal halides? Leds? Do you have Actinic lighting?

 

[six2sevenproductions]

as for salt levels in water changes, when there was nothing in the tank, even substrate, I first added the water and salt at a specific ratio of 1/2 cup salt per gallon. Knowing that, when I take out 3 gallons of saltwater for a water change, and add 3 gallons of saltwater that I mixed the night before at 1/2 cup salt per gallon and let cure; my salt level will be exactly the same, because I keep the tank at a exact volume, and salt does not evaporate. With allowance for salt creep taken into consideration.

how often do you make water changes? Are you toppoing off with fresh water daily? If not your salt level will not be exactly the same.

Example: if you do water changes bi-weekly, and you do not top off with fresh water, then by the next water change your salinity with have greatly increased because of the water evaporation. If you do a 20% water change from there, you will only slightly lower the salinity but overall the salinity will have increased from when you started. A refractormeter is neccessary or at least a hydrometer.

If your water levels are good, then great. Im not saying you are doing anything wrong i just feel you should be testing yourself.

 

[ReefKnot]

Nevermind, I think joining this forum was unnecessary... Thanks for the help everyone... well non stop criticsizing might be closer to it

 

[six2sevenproductions]

Sorry if i didnt tell you what you wanted to hear. I was trying to help but you clearly did not come here for advice. Good luck with your plenty powerful light and perfect levels! Whatever that means.... Oh wait, i mean tell your lfs good luck because its clearly their efforts not yours.