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Old 04-12-2012, 06:39 AM   #11
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10 days later and still no levels
the ammonia readings barely register and nothing for the others. What am I doing wrong?
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:47 AM   #12
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Hi stussi, sounds like you are doing fine, just be patient. Have a look at the link in my sig for a little more information. In a 55g you'll probably see more movement by putting more fish in initially, but just be warned that the bigger the fish load the more you have to be on top of water parameters.

Adding seeded media does help to speed things along sometimes, but in many cases it still takes several weeks for a tank to get established, especially if it's a large one.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:06 AM   #13
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Patience is a true virtue in this hobby. It takes the standard tank 4-6 weeks to cycle. It'll be quicker with any amount of seeded media.

Remember, once you add fish in, as jeta said, you need to be vigilent with parameters and you'll have to do lots of water changes to keep them safe.
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:11 PM   #14
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what was said above is true, it will take at least 4-6 weeks to finish your nitrogen cycle. Keep an eye on the Ammonia, and do water changes as needed, they will be your best friend during this process, try not to do more than 20%, you don't want to starve your bacteria.
Make sure to treat your water before doing water changes, so you get rid of the chlorine.

i just finished cycling a new fluval Fx5, i already had other Fx5's so i just exchange the media and seeded the canister. it cycled in 7 days. just taking water from one tank to another won't help, squeezing out a sponge won't help, you need to have actual media from another canister, or gravel from an existing established tank, since bacteria don't float around, they attach to everything, you will need the physical media. if you have multiple tanks it helps to buy the same filters, that way everything is interchangeable. i have multiple tanks, all running the same filtration. It helps when you have an issue, and make sure to only clean one tank at a time, so you always have an untouched colony that you can fall back on, in case something happens when you are doing a cleaning. and never do a water change the same day you do a cleaning. just my .02
so be patient, it will come.

first you'll have your ammonia spike, then Nitrite spike, then Nitrate.
once you start getting Nitrate, your cycle is complete.
there are 'break in' fish you can use, meaning they are hearty and can handle the break in process.
in your larger tank, just having guppies might take a little longer.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:50 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=billberet;1896150]once you start getting Nitrate, your cycle is complete.
QUOTE]

Not entirely true. You will have nitrAtes when you start converting. That doesnt mean your cycle is done. When ammonia and nitrItes are 0ppm, then you will do water changes to get the nitrAtes down and you are cycled.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billberet View Post
once you start getting Nitrate, your cycle is complete.
As mentioned above, there's more to it than that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by billberet View Post
there are 'break in' fish you can use, meaning they are hearty and can handle the break in process.
Not all fish referred to as hardy fish are all that hardy..... it's still up to the fishkeeper to be very diligent when cycling with fish, this means daily testing, most likely daily water changes, etc. Hardy doesn't mean bomb-proof.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:26 AM   #17
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sorry i should have been more specific when referring to break in fish.

by break in fish i mean Smaller barbs (tiger, gold, rosy), larger tetras (head and tail light, red eye, red minor, buenos aires), danios (zebra, leopard, pearl, gold) and rasboras (heteromorpha, scissortail, redtail, brilliant) are hardy enough to withstand the temporarily high ammonia and nitrite levels and inexpensive enough to replace if some perish during a particularly rough cycle. Anywhere from two to five inches of fish may be used per ten gallons of water - any less and the tank may go through another, but lesser, cycle when more fish are added later; any more and the ammonia and nitrite levels may rise beyond what even the hardy fish can tolerate. A few hardy Corydoras catfish (green or albino) may also be added to reduce the risk of overfeeding. The total cycling time for most aquariums at 78-80 degrees F. is about thirty days, although it may take quite a bit longer at lower temperatures. water changes will be your best friend during this process, so test your water every night if you have too. I went thru a 'new tank syndrom' recently on a tank that was established for 15 years, i replaced my substrate from crushed coral to sand, destroyed my bacteria, not fun. but after 5weeks, all is well again


Also when i was referring to nitrates, i was assuming ammonia and nitrite were at 0. my bad, somtimes i leave out information as i type, mind seems to work faster than my fingers, lol

OH yea, and don't be fooled by instant cycle products, they are junk, save your money, bacteria cannot live in a bottle.
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:55 AM   #18
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Thanks for all the info guys, so...... 2 rainbow widows and 10 neon tetras.... 18 days later PH 6.6 ammonia big fat zero.... Nitrite 0......nitrate 0 .. General hardness 13 drops..... The other hardness one 6 drops... Water temp 30•C .. Fish are all eating well and I've done 1 10%water change. My 20 litre one was almost already cycled by this time. The 0 ammonia worries me slightly.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:28 AM   #19
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Does anyone think my water hardness could be the reason my tank hasn't started cycling?
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:29 AM   #20
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