220 Gallon Cichlid Tank Build

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Plants will grow in sand... If you remember, I use pool filter sand. I have two tanks that are planted with pfs as the substrate.

I will say this.. I spoke with a local breeder a while back on substrates. He was telling me that he had a dark almost black substrate in a tank one time and the fish stayed stressed. Most likely because it brought out their colors more, which made them nervous as they like to stay hidden. He switched to a light tan color and they colored right back up and started breeding again.

Here's a pic of one of my planted tanks with PFS... granted its not pretty, but the plants grow fine ;)
img_1219449_0_9606d6181b271dd9a19716c7f6c9283b.jpg
 
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I would put one intakes as far apart as possible, but the outputs can share location.
 
Just something for you to think about... I used childrens play sand in my tanks for years. $3 for 50lbs. The only issue with it was how light it was. When a fish stirred it up it used to go up into my HOB filters and grind away at it, eventually making them too noisy to use anymore. But I just wanted to give you an idea... You don't HAVE to purchase the expensive aquarium sands...

Right now I use garden pond stones and garden pea gravel, bought from Home Depot, in all mine.

I never had problems with plants growing in the play sand, you shouldn't either in whatever you use. Infact the roots would grip better in sand than they do in gravel. I use Flora Pride liquid ferts also though, so that's maybe something else to add to the shopping list...
 
Hey Guy's

I'm going to start setting the tank up on Thursday.
The Fluval FX5's will be here tomorrow. I ordered the sand today, it's going to be black with a little white.

I ordered this power switch to control the lighting and other devices from the outside of the aquarium.
 
Hey Guy's

I'm going to start setting the tank up on Thursday.
The Fluval FX5's will be here tomorrow. I ordered the sand today, it's going to be black with a little white.

I ordered this power switch to control the lighting and other devices from the outside of the aquarium.


I got the FX5's Yesterday, One of them came with media and the other one did not come with any.

So I had to order more media. I ordered Pre filter ceramic, Blue Pre filter pads,
Bio Max, Carbon for when I need it. Filter media Bags, and Phosphate Remover.

I may need others, but at least this will get me going.
 
That's a ton of light, even for a planted tank. Are you planning to run CO2?

No Jim no co2, I'm just wanting the lights to have the built in moon lights.
As far as plant just a few hear and there depending on how the fish mess with them. Is that to much light?
 
I think you're in danger of major algae out breaks with that light. Most people use MH lights only over the most serious planted tanks.

Are you at all electrically inclined? It wouldn't be too difficult to fab up your own moonlight fixture. On a tank that large, I think I'd use a few decent shop lights for the main lighting and I'd build an LED moonlight setup with a couple pieces of aluminum, some blue LEDs, and a power supply.
 
I would definitely stay away from that light. Like Jim said, you are asking for a massive algae outbreak. Granted the bulbs are not the best for plants - they are 15k - but I still think you would have issues.

I would ask WhiteDevil what fixture he has over his 220g discus tank. He grows lots of plants and has no algae issues. I'm sure it is well under the 1000watt mark though.
 
I would definitely stay away from that light. Like Jim said, you are asking for a massive algae outbreak. Granted the bulbs are not the best for plants - they are 15k - but I still think you would have issues.

I would ask WhiteDevil what fixture he has over his 220g discus tank. He grows lots of plants and has no algae issues. I'm sure it is well under the 1000watt mark though.

That is great advise. I was just putting my feelers out there. I'm not familiar with wattages and what is the right one for the tank. It came with a 72" florescent light. With Marineland bulbs. They say Natural Daylight on them with no wattage on the bulbs. I just like cool tecky stuff.

Thanks Jim & Meegosh

Looks as that I can wire up some type of leds for the hood lights. Should not be to difficult. Back to ebay here I come.
 
If it helps, here are the strips I use:
SolarMax 48" T5 Aquarium Tank Strip Light Fixture - eBay (item 300416233941 end time Mar-05-11 18:08:13 PST)
I don't get much green algae, more brown and not much now. Plants seem fine in the tanks I have these on without co2 (thriving, infact - I just moved some plants from this bulb to another tank and I think they're dead). It's a 10000k bulb. It's a deep blue brand, which is the same as my tank is. I actually rec'd one bulb broken the first time I bought from the seller, they sent me cash (at my request) via Paypal so I could go out and buy my own replacement bulb. Good seller. :)

I should note I do occasionally have more lights on my tanks, I actually have a strip I put on the side, too, but that's usually to take photos.
 
I finally got the tank in place. And I'm thinking 2000 to 2500 lbs.
Hmmm can my sub-floor handle this weight. I'm not sure. I look into the basement and I have 2x8 Floor Joice. Do you think I'm pushing the limits here.
 
220 gallons = 1835lbs (does not include the TANK, sand, rocks, etc)... I personally think you need to do something...

I've drawn up 'napkin plans' for my 375 gallon and I am going to build a concrete frame with wood from the basement foundation and build a concrete tower (by pouring into the wood frame) for the tank to sit directly ontop of above it. Then will put a facade of a stand around the thing up on what can be seen on the first floor. So I'm actually using concrete as the stand.
 
220 gallons = 1835lbs (does not include the TANK, sand, rocks, etc)... I personally think you need to do something...

I've drawn up 'napkin plans' for my 375 gallon and I am going to build a concrete frame with wood from the basement foundation and build a concrete tower (by pouring into the wood frame) for the tank to sit directly ontop of above it. Then will put a facade of a stand around the thing up on what can be seen on the first floor. So I'm actually using concrete as the stand.

I think your right. I'm going to go out and get 3 2x8 to shore it up. I hope it does the trick. The tank alone is about 500lbs.

You know what I broke three of the rim hose connectors trying to get them in place. The glass is a 1/2 thick. What the heck were they thinking with that design. I can't gettem over the thick plastic part. They are ten buck a piece.
 
I have a 10 x220 litre tanks and 2x 375 litre tanks, and a few more small ones on 100 year old wooden floor boards that are mounted on stump posts. The water alone weighs nealy 3000kg (6,600lbs) floor is sound and have had no problems. The weight is spread over the whole 11ft x 8ft (approx) room.

I think in most situations the weight issue is over thought to be honest, especially if the tank is near the wall which is the strongest part of the floor.

However you need to see how many joists are taking the weight and if the joists have enough support to transfer the weight down to the ground. If the weight is spead across a number of joists and the weight is distributed over a greater area you should be fine. If the floor flexes when filling the tank, that would signal that there isn't enough support. Tank placement in the strongest position is key.
 
I think I'd go crazy if I had a 220g tank to keep up.I have a hard enough time reaching the top of one of my 55g tanks that came with a tall stand. I have to use a ladder to clean and do PWC. It's a bit of a PITA
What are the dimension on a 220g tank? Just curious.
 
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