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Old 03-24-2010, 02:51 PM   #1
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a good portable RO unit?

I'm looking into getting a portable reverse osmosis filter and am hoping for some recommendations or even just stuff to avoid. It needs to be portable because I live in an apartment and hope to be moving out in the next year or so, and it would be helpful to tote the unit over to my boyfriend's apartment, rather than lugging the filled carboys over (3 x 5gals).
Main concerns are to reduce nitrates (for fish) and soften the water (for turtle), not going to be using this for drinking water. I'll probably only need about 50gal filtered a week. Right now I'm considering either the 50gpd or 75 gpd sold by PureEarth, but can't find any reviews for their products or service.
So, can anyone recommend a good portable RO unit or have thoughts on the ones sold by PureEarth?
Thanks!
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:23 PM   #2
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This one I got a few weeks back, it's freaking awesome. Hands down.
And once filters run out, you can just replace them with whatever.
Some have said "ooooh, but it's not QUALITY!!"
Whatever, it gives me 0 ppm water, and the rating on all the filters are >2500 gallons.
I would rather buy this for 68$ than some 150-400$ anything else...
0PPM Portable 100GPD Reverse Osmosis DI Filter PO4B-100 - eBay (item 110499515533 end time Mar-26-10 21:05:47 PDT)

It's like with shoes, 'jordans versus payless shoes'...

Nothing lasts forever...
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:18 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kungpaoshizi View Post
This one I got a few weeks back, it's freaking awesome. Hands down.
Looking at that filter, this is this is almost the dance I did, got too dizzy after the first few spins! So, with this filter, 0 nitrate? I know RO filters are meant to do this but it also removes chlorine & hardness? Some of the others I've looked at make this price seem too good to be true. Just sent a message to the seller asking the same stuff. But for now, MASSIVE thanks cuz this looks perfect!
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:20 PM   #4
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Ya, 0ppm on all

So ya, I thought it was too good to be true, but for sure, after I got mine, it comes out with
0amm (down from my tap)
0trites (0 in tap)
0 trates (50-80 in tap)
0TDS (150 in tap)
0 alkalinity
0 hardness
0 chlorine (might have chloramine, but still add just a little water conditioner JUST to be sure)

6.9-7 ph....

You're only asking for RO water, this is RO and Deionization.
So if you're using it for FW, you need to get Kent RO Right, or Seachem Equilibrium.
BW, salt + minerals + alk buffer (i use baking soda + kent marine essentials)
SW just this and salt

But like I said, I don't have a chloramine test unit, so I just add a little water conditioner to be sure..

Otherwise ya, I was ticked about the trates in my water, got this, was SOOO happy, cause all the units I found out there that did 0ppm water were 125$+...

2500g for sediment filter
1500g for GAC
RO says 2 years, heard some guys on the net have had their's for 5-10 years (if you add a 2nd carbon filter before the RO membrane...
Not sure what the life on the DI mixed bed resin is, but it's like 10$ to replace....

I thought it was a dam good price for everything...
I was going to build my own seeing as how most of the filters you can get for 10-15$, I was confused as to how companies are charging 300-400$ for units that must cost 100-130$ to build...

Just be sure to get a tds meter, here's the one I got, it does what it's supposed to....

HM Digital Pocket Size TDS Meter TDS4 Water Quality Tester

Enjoy
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:57 PM   #5
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You MUST have a tds meter when you have a RODI or RO unit.
Pretty amazing unit for the price. Only potential problem I have with it is that it used a 100GPD membrane. The 50, 75 and 150 gpd membranes have a 98% rejection rate. the 100GPD membrane has a 90% rejection rate. That means the DI will be used up faster.
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:02 PM   #6
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imho, you'll be better off without one. in sw, its great because the salt mix replenishes the nutrients lost in the filtration. in fw, it can cause unstable ph, lack of nutrients, etc. Unless you have discus, i'd stray away from it. jmo though
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kungpaoshizi View Post
Otherwise ya, I was ticked about the trates in my water, got this, was SOOO happy, cause all the units I found out there that did 0ppm water were 125$+...
Yeah, before this I'd been seriously considering that one for $140, pretty happy to pay half that & still get good water! Thanks for the recommendation! Plus it looks like the replacements for this one are less than those for a lot of others.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cmor1701d View Post
Only potential problem I have with it is that it used a 100GPD membrane. The 50, 75 and 150 gpd membranes have a 98% rejection rate. the 100GPD membrane has a 90% rejection rate. That means the DI will be used up faster.
Is that true for all 100gpd RO filters or just this one? Didn't know about that at all! Since I'll only need about 50-75gals at most a week, do you think the 50 or the 75 would be enough?


Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdrookie516 View Post
in fw, it can cause unstable ph, lack of nutrients, etc. Unless you have discus, i'd stray away from it. jmo though
Thanks, the pH is my biggest worry. However, the hardness of the water is starting to lead to deposits on my turtle's shell and if I don't get that cleared up it can start to harm her. As for the nutrients, do you think an additive like Kent's RO conditioner would help?


Also, what can I use to hold all the water? Have 3 5gal carboys now but to change the turtle's tank would be 30+ gals and I don't want to start refilling, wait several hours, then finish filling. Garbage can wouldn't be food safe would it?
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:41 PM   #8
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cmor1701d, what are you talking about?
I havn't heard anything like that, but really, just getting into all this myself..
Why would the GPD make a difference on the ratio of rejection?
I can see the higher gpd makes more pass through, but why would the 100 do the most as opposed to the 150?

And yes, mfdrookie516, I totally agree with you, except for the fact I have 50-80ppm nitrates straight out of the tap... :P

I wouldn't use that even with FW. I suppose I should just feel lucky that my tds is only 150... I've heard horror stories about that..
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Old 03-28-2010, 05:16 PM   #9
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hbeth82, as long as you use the Kent RO Right or Seachem Equilibrium, you should be alright for FW. Though if your water requires a higher ph, dunno bout Seachem, but the RO Right, is geared towards minerals/nutrients, moderate alk buffers, and mostly general hardness.
But if you use baking soda to adjust the alkalinity after testing with just the conditioner to adjust, you should be good.

I've heard some mix 50/50 tap + ro/di water too...

But I would just use the other stuff, depending upon your tds, that would probably be the likely cause of your deposits..

Just be sure if you have plants, to invest in some sort of fertilizer because their nutrient requirements might be different than that of what Kent RO Right or Equilibrium provides... (if you go 100% conditioned ro/di)

And on your comment about the 140$ model, ya, I got into this pretty much ignorant of everything that it required to have a healthy setup.. Thought I was going to have to sell a kidney for a lot of the ro/di models I've seen out there...

Oh ya, and a garbage can would be wise, then you can always have water ready to go in case of an emergency.. I've heard a lot of people use brutes, heard a couple guys say 'goto dollar general for a cheap one', I personally found an 8$ 26g can at walmart... Was a little iffy about using it since it had the new plastic smell, but that was weeks ago..
Just be sure to use some FRESH ro/di water (aggressive solvent pre conditioning) to rinse it out multiple times.
Personally I havn't seen any adverse affects of the 8$ can..
Some others on I think The Reef Tank forums said "the rubbermaid brute isn't on the approved list for containers that are acceptable for food storage!" (according to some plastic retailers catalog)

So ya, just as long as you don't use a metal garbage can you'll prolly be fine..
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:02 PM   #10
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Ah this is for a FW setup, not SW. At most you want RO, but RODI. The DI filter removes everything making the water unbalanced. It's ok for drinking but from what I remember does need to be conditioned for FW use.

The 100gpd FilmTec membrane (Made in the USA by DOW) is the one that has a 90% rejection rate vs the 98% of the others . The 150gpd membrane is new last year.
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