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Old 10-26-2010, 03:53 PM   #21
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With the Fluval G series, you might just be able to do that.
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Old 10-26-2010, 04:11 PM   #22
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Yea, the Fluval G series has an LCD screen and microprocessors. But when it comes down to it - all of these bells and whistles on a filter are only there for people who would rather just "let a black box run their aquarium". A little know-how (sump/refugium) and a return pump can accomplish a lot of the same things for a ton less $$$.
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:17 PM   #23
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As always, thanks for the input here guys.

My water does seem to be clearing steadily more and more each day, and I think it just needed time to continue or fully cycle, as had been suggested to me -- it's not so clear that it's transparent yet, but it may be on its way, and I may give it a little push with some Purigen soon...

Be that as it may, I'm still confused on the differences between these media and what I'm dealing with in regard to my Aqueon's cartridges -- I've often heard hobbyists speak of not replacing the media until it's "falling apart" but does that apply to the carbon/cotton cartridges associated with my Aqueon HOBs? How often do these cartridges need to be replaced -- if at all?
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:12 PM   #24
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basically you have 3 basic types of filtration mechanical: which is like a floss pad or sponge in your case its the white floss on the outside of the cartridge you have chemical: which is carbon or any thing that removes things from the water in your case that is the carbon inside the cartridges and you have biological: this part is the live bacteria that breaks down ammonia into nitrites then onto nitrates these bacteria are present on almost everything in your tank even the glass..in your case the blue pieces in your filter are just more surface area and same with the ceramic stuff people are telling your about iv even seen people use pot scrubbers (like sponges) to get more surface area..if you go this route you wont have to rinse or even touch it for up too 3 months i leave my ceramic beads in there for 6 months without buying new ones and only rinse every 3 ..so much cheaper .. so anyway basically what i have learned is that leaving your filter longer without rinsing is better and when you do rinse do to clogging or decrease flow..time it with a partial water change that way you can take your different components and just shake them in a bucket with tank water so it frees them of large debri but still keeps some of your live beneficial bacteria alive
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:21 PM   #25
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Thanks Loach,

But how often do I need to change these "cartridges" in my filters? Do I need to change them out completely and replace them with new ones, as the marketing folks at Aqueon, etc. suggest, or do I just take them out and rinse them, to put them back into the canister?
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Old 10-27-2010, 12:50 AM   #26
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i would rinse them in tank water (give em good shake) once a month and change em out maybe every 3 months
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:39 AM   #27
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I've heard arguments that one can let these sit until they "fall apart;" is this not recommended?

I will consider the 3-month schedule...thank you.
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:12 PM   #28
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well i guess you could do that but watch your water quality do what works for you there are many factors too consider most important your bio load..(how many living things are in your aquarium and how big) that will determine it
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:23 PM   #29
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+1 for using them as long as they'll work. When I had a Penguin 200B and was running the factory cartridges, I'd rinse and reuse until I was cleaning the cartridge more than once a week. That filter has slots for two cartridges, so I'd only change one at a time.
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:22 AM   #30
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well i guess you could do that but watch your water quality do what works for you there are many factors too consider most important your bio load..(how many living things are in your aquarium and how big) that will determine it
Well, I only have the three fish in there, no live plants...
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