Originally Posted by Thumper828
You got that water lookin good.... I was able to do a little customization with quietflow. There was a little trial and error involved. Ended up putting the purigen in the empty space behind the existing filter....added some filter floss in between the existing filter and the bio-holster. The carbon in the existing filter is probably well exhausted by now. But I think the carbon is not needed anyway. Anyway...The clarity in the water is unreal. I have really been debating on getting a aquaclear 50 but the gph
is the same as my quietflow 30. Not real sure about anything bigger due to increased water current.
Would the current from bigger filter, say a aquaclear 70 or 110 be an issue? I have a 36 gallon bow front.......
Amen. Unless you are overstocked or have "filthy fish," Just say NO to the 8x to 10x GPH
rule for HOB
's. Who needs their fish swimming against a rip current. So long as you are getting BB and filter media almost the equivalent of a cannister filter through customization, the same 5x to 6x GPH
rate should apply. So long as your water is crystal clear and polished, there is no "fishy" smell, & the water tests safe for nitrates, there is no reason to upgrade just to increase GPH
. Especially if yours is quiet so you don't have to endure this misery:
The water in my 29 gallon with a Fluval C3 153 GPH
is pristine with only a 5.27x GPH
rate. I am so tired of the rip current effect in my 38 gallon with an 8.7 x GPH
rate, I plan on giving myself the Christmas gift of optimal & convenient filtration with minimal outflow rate with a two filter set up of a fluval C3 and an AquaClear 30.
Both filters can be set to run at the minimum combined outflow settings under 200 GPH
while giving filtration at over 300 GPH
. The Fluval AquaClear and Fluval C series are the only HOB
's that let you slow down the water discharge rate while keeping the filtration rate the same. According to Fluval, their system is patented. In addition, the advantage of fluval C series & Aquaclears is convenience & reducing long term expense. There are no expensive cartridges to constantly replace and you just delete the carbon after two weeks and replace it with purigen &/or filter floss &/or other media. [Although it seems to work fine in the end, I have wasted way too much time and effort doing the customization thing on my Aqua-Tech.]
As this relates to your situation, should you decide to upgrade or should your Aqueon 30 die of natural causes, probably your best bets would be an aqua clear 70 or Fluval C4. That way you could be filtering at the rate of 250-300 GPH
but by setting either of them on a "lower outflow" you could keep your outflow at the rate of about 200 GHP.
Specifically, the C4 has a maximum rate of 264 GPH
and a minimum of 159 GPH
The AquaClear 70 has a maximum rate of 300 GPH
and a minimum of 100 GPH
The flow rates can be set anywhere between maximum and minimum.
[I cannot use the C4 or the AC70 on my 38 because there is not enough space between the back of the tank and the wall ..... thus to upgrade, I need two filters ....... which in the end provides great insurance in the event of a breakdown in either tank.]