Another AquaClear Media Question

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Coryluv

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Oct 30, 2011
Messages
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Location
Chicago
I just got an AC50. I love it so far.

Background: Here is what I currently have in there. I put in the foam, carbon and BioMax per the instructions in that order from bottom to top. Just below the BioMax and above the carbon, I put a piece of my old filter pad, and I had also run the foam in my old filter so there should be some beneficial bacteria to get things off to a good start.

(I have the carbon in there by choice. Although I cleaned the brand new acrylic tank with warm dechlorinated water, I want the carbon in there just as insurance for now)

Question: My real question is about the foam and the BioMax (ceramic pellets -- the ones that came with my filter aren't rings) Hagen says change the carbon monthly which makes perfect sense, but they also say to change the foam every 2 months and the BioMax every 3 months (not changing more than one media at a time to maintain the BB). Why would I need to do anything except rinse the foam and the BioMax? Other than the fact that filter makers want to sell media... I've read differing opinions here, but am still a little fuzzy about it.

So what do you do with your AquaClear? Do you change these portions of the media as directed or do you just rinse and keep it as long as you can? I would very much appreciate it if AC users would weigh in on the pros and cons. Also do you use something else? Do you "roll your own" so to speak? Do you buy ceramic rings in bulk and refill that way. Do you use the official Hagen foam or something else? What have you done that does or does not work? Are there any dangers from using the foam or the BioMax for too long?

In the end I imagine that my water tests will tell the story, but I'd sure like to learn from your experiences. I have media bags so I literally could put anything in there that fits.

TIA

P.S. I got the AC because it is so highly regarded here.
 
You do not have to replace the sponge unless it is absolutely falling apart. It will last for years. rinse it out in tank water when you do your WC's The ceramic cylinders never have to be replaced. rinse them once in a while also. the rest of the media that comes with the filter is not necessary to use. Personal choice comes into play here, I run carbon in my canister filters, I feel it helps keep the water clearer, and does remove some unwanted substances. Once again personal choice, but not necessary The manufacturer would love you to change media once a month, More profit:dance:
 
Thanks foster53. That's just the answer I needed. Logic dictated that the ceramic cylinders and foam could just be rinsed, but I really wanted to hear from someone with experience with this filter. This is great news and I believe will be healthier for the fish.

I tend to like carbon in my filter, too for the reason you stated. As long as I change it monthly; there is a reason to change the carbon for sure. That's one reason I got the media bags, so I could buy the carbon in bulk in the cartons or jars rather than be wedded to pre-packaged carbon.
 
You are very welcome!! Foster and Smith offers their own brand of carbon in bulk. It seems to be pretty decent. I have been using it for several months with good results(y) Maybe someone on this forum also offers carbon in bulk, best to support our members whenever possible:)
 
I agree with supporting the folks who support this forum. I will start looking at the ads here first. Thanks again.
 
I have been running the same sponges in my AC110 for 5 years. The rings can be treated the same though I don't use them. I also wouldn't run carbon all the time unless you have a reason to like to remove tannins or meds. I'd run Purigen if you are looking for clear water. It removes organics from the water but not ferts and can be reused and lasts up to 6 months between recharging. It's great stuff. IMO carbon has it's place in the cabinet but not in the tank until truly needed.
 
I agree, i just removed my carbon this week. I thought it be more useful to pack more sponge in. I dont need carbon, so why keep it? Kind of a waste of space! ;)

I will say my AC has gotten loud after a few months, and several other people have the same problem (i did everything you can think of to make it work normally again. I think the impeller is damaged/not lined up properly). So heads up they may not stay silent forever, or you may need to replace a part.
 
Thanks Nubster. I will look into the Purigen. I have heard it mentioned here but I don't (yet) know much about it. I see it is a Seachem product.

Thanks for weighing in gabysapha. Yeah, I had read that several were having noise probs with their AquaClears. I'll keep that in mind. I certainly will replace a part if needed. I'll have to check the paperwork as to warranty. I think there is one, but I can't remember.

On another note, I'm checking water quality daily and so far it looks like my BB on the old filter material are working in there. I didn't have the option of running my old filter with my new filter in the new tank because my old tank was an Eclipse 12 with an integrated filter system (that impeller ran noiselessly for 8 years).
 
I run a sponge in the bottom of my AC50, biomax in the middle and some polyfiber on top for polishing the water.
 
Most of my ACs are old, from before the name change. I use 2 sponge inserts and perhaps some pot scrubbers on top. If I want finer filtration I will add poly batting between the two sponge inserts. Some of my sponges are over 10 years old.
 
Thanks meegosh and BillD. Nice to know how long some of the media can be expected to last. They sure don't tell you that on the instructions.

I'll probably continue to keep the piece of filter fiber from my old tank in there for the finer filtration just like you are both using poly batting. Also it is easy to move if I need to start another tank. For now it absolutely is my main source of BB.
 
Purigen is a good product no doubt if used correctly. BUT it has a tendency to mess with the redox level in the tank, it can swing drastically, and have the potential to change PH levels from when new to exhaustion. If you use this I would suggest a redox meter, callibrated correctly, and a good PH meter. Just some thoughts from past experience(y)
 
Thanks for that bit of important to consider info, foster53. I sure appreciate your sharing your experience. We have a household well and I constantly monitor pH as it is, though I don't have a meter. I have the good old API Freshwater Master kit.

(An aside -- though I use Prime and talk about dechlorinated water, our water has no chlorine or chloramine added. My use of the term dechlorinate here actually just means that I used the Prime. The only thing our water is treated for is acidity and it comes out of the tap at 7.0 most of the time -- but I check it).

I guess being on well water is another reason I like the idea of carbon to help remove traces of whatever. Of course, this is the same water I drink and I'm worried about it being safe for my fish, lol!

At this point in time RO water is out of the question. That's what I'd love to have, but it is not going to happen any time soon.

I haven't made any hard decisions for the long run except that the foam and ceramic are getting rinsed in the used tank water bucket and being reused.
 
You are very fortunate to have neutral (7.0) water out of the tap. I would love to have that!! Do you test for nitrates? If you live near farmland or industrial areas you could have higher nitrates in your tap water. Not saying you do, just a possibility. Might be something to consider.
 
I do/have tested for nitrates and they come up 0 in the tap water. Only time I see a 0 in fact. Like many, I can keep the tank (I only have the one) down to 5 and 10 ppm by testing frequently and religiously doing my water changes. If I see it at 20 I start to increase my volume and frequency of water changes.

The 7.0 out of the tap is a mixed blessing because it is done by running our water through a tank of calcite out in the garage. So clearly the 7.0 comes at a cost. It is done in this way so that the naturally low pH water will not deteriorate our pipes and fixtures. If something goes wrong with that system, it will not be 7.0 out of the tap and of course the composition of the water will change. Hence the frequent tap water checks for pH.

While my water has some pluses, I certainly would prefer softer water with fewer dissolved minerals. I do not have a general hardness test kit, but do plan to get one. I don't have to be a rocket scientist to know that my water contains dissolved minerals. I'm not planning on messing with the hardness, or pH for that matter; but it would be nice to know what it is I'm actually dealing with. My tank water stays at 7.2 to 7.4. Letting our water sit in a bucket for 24 hours renders a 6.4 to 6.8 pH.

(I didn't know when we decided that we wanted a few tetras, that I was going to have to become a water expert, lol!)

We are on a very complex aquifer here in the Sierra foothills, and it is difficult to say just where our water comes from. NO ONE, including some highly paid scientists fully understand the hydrology here. I've heard that by the time it gets to the well, the water is thousands of years old. I'm not sure I buy that, but one thing is sure, it tests 0 for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate out of the tap.

But to keep this on topic, because I don't fully understand my water source and because it is a small household system that we are entirely responsible for running, I tend to see carbon in my tank filter as insurance until or unless I can get an RO system. I lean towards the thinking that good quality activated carbon, properly rinsed, used, and changed, will do no harm. I don't mind spending the money, though I'd rather buy my choice of carbon in bulk and put it in my own media bag than to be beholding to the filter manufacturer.

I already have heard about the HITH carbon theory; but beyond that, I was curious why people are so against activated carbon, so of course I googled. I'm paraphrasing, but I found out it is considered old school and a sign of laziness to use it except to remove meds! Of course, I first and foremost believe in water changes. I tend to see activated carbon as insurance against unknown trace impurities in my water source, and certainly not as a way to keep my water clean without changing it.
 
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