AquaClear 110 "Flow Control" Question...

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@Link119

Thank you for the through explanation on the filter. Now I'm understanding the whole process better.
 
Here is a trick I used for my fancy gold fish so you still have max flow without plowing your flakes or pellets to the bottom but getting goldfish to eat from the top takes time and training they like to rummage for food at the bottom.

So I use a pop bottle to reduce the flow I cut of the top and bottom then then cut in half length ways like in picture 1

Then stretch it over the output of the filter with a piece of tape on the filter lid if needed to hold it in place but it's still easy to take off for filter matience as shown in picture 2

Hope this helps you out
 

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Hi Artesia,

I have an AC-50 on a 29-gallon. When new, I remember it making a lot of micro bubbles. Give your filter some time to buid up slime in its internal housing and the bubbles will lessen.

As for the flow, there's very little difference between the min/max output. Try feeding at the farthest point from the output.

It's one heck of a filter, and I wouldn't trade it for any other HOB filter.

David

Hello David,

Thanks so very much for your valued input; some things I would like to continue analyzing with you, if I may:

You mentioned a "slime" buildup in the housing -- this doesn't sound good! Are you referring to some algae buildup within the plastic pieces of the filter, or just bacteria that eventually latches on from uneaten food, waste, etc? My 110 is actually not new -- we bought it about two and a half years ago when we first set up the 60 gallon goldfish tank, but after the bacterial infection wiped out the fantails I had in there, we completely sterilized the tank and filter housings from scratch, making them I suppose "kind of new" again; are you saying that even though I merely cleaned the AquaClear to the point it was nearly new, it still would exhibit new-like characteristics like the micro-bubbles, etc? The thing is, an 18" bubble bar is directly beneath the 110's intake stem, so this causes micro bubbling as well...

Now -- with regard to the flow speed, which was the essential element of this thread, and which you have given me more welcomed insight on...are you saying it's normal that I don't detect that much flow difference between min and max? And are you suggesting I just keep the filter on max output and simply feed on the other side of the tank, where the flow is a bit less chaotic from the secondary filter, an Aqueon QuietFlow 55? It's strange that there are so many stories from other AquaClear owners who claim they can see a definite difference when they switch their units from max to min output; perhaps some of these are just more powerful than others?
 
If the filter is on the lowest setting, the water gets filtered at the same speed, but it is recycled from the end of the filter "basket" and then it is sucked back into the intake from the part of the pump that is not covered by the intake tube. This means that water is being sent through the media at the same rate, but it is being recycled through the media leaving the water with less ammonia with each pass. But, each time the water goes through it has less ammonia than before, so the bacteria are going to be converting the ammonia less and less with each pass. So if the filter is set to 50% intake, for example, then half of the water is from the tank, and would be full of ammonia, and the other half would have much less ammonia. So running the filter at maximum flow, the water that is getting filtered would have more ammonia than the average of the water when set to the lowest setting, therefore running the filter at maximum flow would be the best option. Plus, the mechanical media will be filtering more water with particles in it on full flow.

Unlike cw, I'm confused here, Link...:blink::blink:

Based on your explanation, I don't understand why the maximum flow would be the best option; it seems more ammonia gets exposed that way...:blink:
 
Here is a trick I used for my fancy gold fish so you still have max flow without plowing your flakes or pellets to the bottom but getting goldfish to eat from the top takes time and training they like to rummage for food at the bottom.

So I use a pop bottle to reduce the flow I cut of the top and bottom then then cut in half length ways like in picture 1

Then stretch it over the output of the filter with a piece of tape on the filter lid if needed to hold it in place but it's still easy to take off for filter matience as shown in picture 2

Hope this helps you out

I would love to see full pics of your fancy goldfish setup...:thanks:
 
Here it is 110 gallon 2 fluval 405's, 2 aquaclear 110's, fluval e300 heater, dual port air pump and a gold fantail, Choclate fantail, black moor, ryukin, lionhead, calico fantail, red cap oranda, Pom Pom, and a ranchu.
 

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Here it is 110 gallon 2 fluval 405's, 2 aquaclear 110's, fluval e300 heater, dual port air pump and a gold fantail, Choclate fantail, black moor, ryukin, lionhead, calico fantail, red cap oranda, Pom Pom, and a ranchu.

Thanks Ryan!

Wow -- now THAT is a large tank!! :eek:

I wish I had all that room for some fancies to swim and play in; but boy -- you are really scarcely decorated, huh? Did you not want to do some kind of "theme" in that tank? If I had a tank that big, I would have planned a wicked aquascape...is it because you are housing fancy goldies?

Do you have any closeup pics of your fish and filters in action?
 
ArtesiaWells said:
Thanks Ryan!

Wow -- now THAT is a large tank!! :eek:

I wish I had all that room for some fancies to swim and play in; but boy -- you are really scarcely decorated, huh? Did you not want to do some kind of "theme" in that tank? If I had a tank that big, I would have planned a wicked aquascape...is it because you are housing fancy goldies?

Do you have any closeup pics of your fish and filters in action?

You quickly learn with goldfish less decor it much easier to clean and I don't like castles and stuff like that just plants and terra cotta for me. And yes with fancies poor eye sight you should avoid sharp objects that can poke or tear their fins. Here are a few pics I had on hand
 

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Unlike cw, I'm confused here, Link...:blink::blink:

Based on your explanation, I don't understand why the maximum flow would be the best option; it seems more ammonia gets exposed that way...:blink:

More ammonia is exposed to the bacteria in the media.
 
You quickly learn with goldfish less decor it much easier to clean and I don't like castles and stuff like that just plants and terra cotta for me. And yes with fancies poor eye sight you should avoid sharp objects that can poke or tear their fins. Here are a few pics I had on hand

Oh, I understand about the decor -- I didn't really mean anything rather "cheesy" like castles; but maybe wood, rock caves or perhaps "Asian" themed decor because of the goldfish's habitat...:D

Thank you for the pics! They are gorgeous and look very happy in their home!
 
You quickly learn with goldfish less decor it much easier to clean and I don't like castles and stuff like that just plants and terra cotta for me. And yes with fancies poor eye sight you should avoid sharp objects that can poke or tear their fins. Here are a few pics I had on hand

Is your lighting fluorescent?
 
Are you referring to some algae buildup within the plastic pieces of the filter, or just bacteria that eventually latches on from uneaten food, waste, etc?

Most filters, over time, develop a film of sludge that can coat the internal walls and act as a lubrication. Too much of it is not healthy for the tank and will eventually impede the filter's performance. All of my filters are AquaClear filters and I've noticed that when I run them right out of the box they are usually louder and minute bubbles come out of the output. After a while, say, 30 to 45 days, they run quieter and the bubbles seem to disappear. I can only attribute that to the film that coats the internal walls and mechanism.

I keep all my filters on the plus side. I want water turnover to be at its max setting. The more water that I can run through the biological media per hour, the more nitrifying will take place. However, depending on what I'm feeding, I may decrease the water flow. Sometimes I even shut the filter off; it's connected to a socket that's hooked up to a wall switch (it's like turning a light on and off).

Pick an area in your tank where the water flow is at a minimum and feed your fish in that area every day. Your fish will eventually learn where they are to be fed and will meet you at that spot before you get to the tank.

David
 
ArtesiaWells said:
Is your lighting fluorescent?

Yeah it's just more stuff to vaccume around I like it simple and Goldie's have a large bioload and toxic gas pockets can form under decor it's only my fancy tank that's simple. And yes I have 4x 4' t-8 lights so I can grow some low light plants for them to munch on as it aids their digestion. Here a a couple pics to show my other tanks just so you don't think I keep them all plain Jane lol
 

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Yeah it's just more stuff to vaccume around I like it simple and Goldie's have a large bioload and toxic gas pockets can form under decor it's only my fancy tank that's simple.

I think I may have experienced the "toxic gas pockets" syndrome in my last setup -- we weren't doing all that much gravel vacuuming in my 60 gallon fancy setup and this I believe lead to the bacterial infection that wiped out at least two of my beloved fancies, a Red Cap Oranda and a Chocolate variant.

I just can't bring myself to leave my 60 gallon so sparse; we recently introduced a "tree stump" (artificial) decoration into the tank, and this thing takes up most of the left side of the aquarium! It didn't look that big outside the water...

And yes I have 4x 4' t-8 lights so I can grow some low light plants for them to munch on as it aids their digestion. Here a a couple pics to show my other tanks just so you don't think I keep them all plain Jane lol

LOL; thanks -- so you run most of them without backgrounds? As far as the lighting goes, do you like fluorescent lighting over a tank? I don't know how I feel about it; I'm running an Aqueon/All Glass fluorescent strip over my 60 gallon, but to me it makes the tank look "cold and sterile" not like the natural habitat these fish come from...on my 10 gallon goldie setup, I have the stock incandescent lamps that came with the hood over it, and that casts a more "yellow" glow to the water, but I'm not sure which one I prefer...
 
I use a solid black painted background it makes the plant and fish colors pop and yes I much prefer fluorescent also needed for plant growth but you can get different color temp bulbs from blue, white, to pinkish hues but I like 6500k for a more daylight natural look and the plants like it too
 
I use a solid black painted background it makes the plant and fish colors pop and yes I much prefer fluorescent also needed for plant growth but you can get different color temp bulbs from blue, white, to pinkish hues but I like 6500k for a more daylight natural look and the plants like it too

So 6500k gives the most "daylight natural" look? That's what I have been after -- is this a fluorescent or incandescent light?
 
What do you mean fluorescent bulbs "have" 6500 -- are ALL fluorescent lamps 6500?
 
Not all are. You might have to go looking, but if the lights are in a lfs they will be 6500k likely...
 
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