Aquaclear vs Fluval

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tonysss

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
May 27, 2014
Messages
21
Hey guys,

I'm curious as to what your take is on aquaclear power filter vs the fluval c4. My 55 gallon tank is currently running on a in-tank filter and it seems to be doing an awful job at clearing water debris. My plants are covered with brownish waste. Anyways, I know that the fluval c4 has the carbon filter which would help the cause of clearing the water. What's ya'lls take on this as well. I would also love to hear any other product recommendations.

Thanks
 
I have never use the Fluval, but do have several ACs. I like them because the sponges last for many years so there is no ongoing cost for replacing elements. having said that, most of my tanks are filtered using Hydrosponge filters.
 
I have had both aquaclears and fluval c-Series HOB's. IMO, the fluval c-Series is like an AC but more updated, innovative, and refined. They're both made by Hagen/Fluval so they share the same impeller and reliability. However, the c-Series has a great modular design with a wet/dry trickle chamber for optimal BB growth and sustainability. I've been using a c2 for 2 years now and just got a c4 because I loved it that much. I'd get the c4 if I were you. IMO, the only filter better than it would be a canister filter, no other HOB can beat it. An AC gets close though. Watch some YouTube vids on it and be amazed! :)
 
I have had both aquaclears and fluval c-Series HOB's. IMO, the fluval c-Series is like an AC but more updated, innovative, and refined. They're both made by Hagen/Fluval so they share the same impeller and reliability. However, the c-Series has a great modular design with a wet/dry trickle chamber for optimal BB growth and sustainability. I've been using a c2 for 2 years now and just got a c4 because I loved it that much. I'd get the c4 if I were you. IMO, the only filter better than it would be a canister filter, no other HOB can beat it. An AC gets close though. Watch some YouTube vids on it and be amazed! :)
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Fluval C4 for sure. AquaClear is obsolete by comparison . You can really do a nice job with custom media with the C series and you don't even have to shut the things off when you servcie them.

Here is a link to my HOB filtration section on Photobucket which shows the separate compartments and my C series custom media ..... as well as a shot of that horrible messy AquaClear media basket.

HOB Filtration Photos by Paul1792 | Photobucket

(click on each picture to enlarge it and see the full explanation)
 
Nice work, Paul. You should do a write up with photos here so you can link to it.

I also modified my fluval-c. I'm still in the original sponge but when the polishing layer got trashed, I peeled it away and use this in lieu of it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002...165_QL70&qid=1406583562&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

I also don't use the activated carbon anymore. I added biomax there along with a small media bag of purigen. I love how this filter can accommodate customized media.
 
I've been using a c2 for 2 years now and just got a c4 because I loved it that much.

You never had your impeller stuck due to bio-slime buildup inside impeller chamber that so many verified owners in amazon complained about? Do you clean the impeller chamber often?



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Clean it, hardly. I think what they're experiencing is something common to both AC and Fluval C filters. After it's been unplugged and cleaned, it sometimes doesn't start back up after being plugged back in. You simply have to use a skewer stick or something similar and give the impeller a little nudge. Just adjust the flow control until it moves the intake tube enough to expose the impeller in order to reach it with stick. Works every time.
 
Clean it, hardly. I think what they're experiencing is something common to both AC and Fluval C filters. After it's been unplugged and cleaned, it sometimes doesn't start back up after being plugged back in. You simply have to use a skewer stick or something similar and give the impeller a little nudge. Just adjust the flow control until it moves the intake tube enough to expose the impeller in order to reach it with stick. Works every time.
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Exactly. An ice pick or small screw driver works as well. This is not rocket science. .........

But ........ I do find it bizarre. For a premium product at a premium price, you'd think the morons at Hagen could get it right.

Although inferior in all other aspects, at least WalMart AquaTech filters will go a full year without this problem. I got two years on one along with BB algae clogs before mine quit spinning. At the time .... I was not doing enough water changes before joining this forum.
 
Yeah that's strange. I have no idea why they don't address this when this happens in all their HOBs I have. I have 2x AC's and 2x C filters. Aside from this minor annoyance and the initial not-so-silent break-in period, the filters have all worked great for my needs. But seriously, maybe they should include this issue in a "trouble shooting" section of their owners manual if they don't address the problem in the design or tolerances in the manufacturing process. But knowing this issue + the easy work around, I'd happily buy another C filter if need be and I have no reservations in recommending them.
 
After it's been unplugged and cleaned, it sometimes doesn't start back up after being plugged back in. You simply have to use a skewer stick or something similar and give the impeller a little nudge.

I just remove the intake tube and the grey rectangular impeller chamber cap, then very lightly nudge the impeller with the tip of my index finger. Works too and doesn't hurt my finger at all.

I experience this problem every 5 to 10 months. I've always attributed it to bio-slime accumulation in the impeller chamber. However if you guys are experiencing it after cleaning the impeller, then maybe it is not related to bio-slime after all.


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You can really do a nice job with custom media with the C series and you don't even have to shut the things off when you servcie them.

I don't shut off my AquaClears either when cleaning or replacing media. As long as you have the intake tube set to high flow, very little dirt will spill into the tank when removing the media basket. I find that a lot of dirt will spill into the tank if removing the media basket while using the low flow setting of the intake tube.



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The Aquaclears are a Fluval product.. just bought two 70's for my 55 gallon and believe it or not my tank water has never been clearer and my ammonia and nitrites are measuring at 0 ppm for the first time since.. ever! Love them!! Best filters I've ever owned hands down!
 
The Aquaclears are a Fluval product.. just bought two 70's for my 55 gallon and believe it or not my tank water has never been clearer and my ammonia and nitrites are measuring at 0 ppm for the first time since.. ever! Love them!! Best filters I've ever owned hands down!
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Are you stuffing them with floss ??????? Using Purigen?

They do work ..... just not out of the box configuration. Floss + Puriigen = Crystal Clear water.

Your tank water may have never been clearer ....... but that is a VERY low bar. If you want the best crystal clear and polished water ...... stuff you AC's with Sera Wool floss and Purigen.
 
I am still trying to figure out the magic bullet to having crystal clear water. I have 6 tanks, all using AquaClear 50 and 70, all with basic AquaClear media, none have carbon, all stocked with the same bioload, same fish species, same fish size, all fed the same diet, all on the same light timer, all same LED light fixture. However 4 of my tanks are crystal clear and 2 are slightly cloudy. Two of the tanks have plants in flower pots, but 1 of the 2 planted tanks is cloudy. I have even done 80% water changes to make all tanks become crystal clear, but after 1 day the two problem tanks become slightly cloudy again. No medications, no sick fish. No ammonia or nitrites, and 20 ppm nitrate in all tanks. I don't understand the cause of the cloudiness in the 2 tanks. One of the cloudy tanks even has a slightly lower bioload than some of the crystal clear tanks.

I've considered the possibility that some fish have diabetes and are urinating a lot and the filters cannot handle fish urine. It's far-fetched but I can't think of any other explanation.
 
Add filter floss and purigen to the filters. Are you dosing ferts, specifically iron and phosphate?
 
Add filter floss and purigen to the filters. Are you dosing ferts, specifically iron and phosphate?

These 6 tanks - no ferts, no CO2, no glut/exel, no additives except for Seachem Prime during a water change. The 6 tanks are 3x 30 gallon and 3x 20 long. One 20 long is cloudy, and one 30 gal is cloudy. It's really strange how the cloudiness comes back within 1 day of an 80% water change. :banghead:

I've even considered swapping the fish into each other's tanks, but I figured that the stress from catching them was not worth risking for a minor cosmetic issue.

The fact that the 4 clear tanks don't have floss or carbon/purigen tells me that those products are not needed to produce a crystal clear tank... but sadly I don't know what is making the 2 tanks cloudy.
 
How long have these tanks been setup? Any new DW pieces added by any chance? What substrate are they using?
 
The 6 tanks are all bare bottom. Two of the six tanks have 3 identical cup-sized plastic flower pots containing identical amounts of carribsea floramax. One of these "planted" tanks is clear while another is cloudy. The carribsea floramax was all washed at the same time. Both "planted" tanks have 4 to 5 Cory that like to explore the substrate.

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All 6 tanks were setup within the 3rd week of April 2014. At that time they were all crystal clear. The cloudiness in the 2 culprit tanks began shortly after introducing fish. One cloudy tank has 6 corydora (20 gallon with potted plants) and the other cloudy tank has 6 large swordtails (30 gallon, no plants).

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