Well got the RO
today and installed it, only cussed a few times and the bleeding has stopped
Turned the sucker on and water shot everywhere!!! Instead of a needle piercing valve, this company uses and inline valve and on piece was loose on the valve, got that tightened down and no more leaks!!! Turned the booster pump on and started makiing some water, the tank filled in about an hour and a half maybe an hour, how did I know it was done?? The pressure switch worked!!! The booster pump shut it self off!! I discharged all the water in the tank and the pump started up again before all the water was released. Now we'll see if it shuts off again
Water going into RO
, water coming out...15, I expect 0 or 1 out of the DI
. Just a FYI
, the water out of the DI
read 50 when I first tested, I was really disappointed, then I thought, "Hey stupid, rinse the glass out with the RO
water, did it three consecutive times and it comes out 15, so make sure you rinse your glass in the water your testing before you test!!
For those of you that have not gotten your pressure switches to work...I was suprised by the installation instructions that came with the booster pump assembly. I really am not mechanically inclined to have had a educated guess how it would go together, but thought they would go inline one right after the other...they don't. The cold water runs to the booster pump which then pumps it to the sediment filter and the carbon filters, when it comes out of the first three stages it goes into the solenoid and out to the RO
membrane, from there it goes to the pressure switch and out to the tank and/or DI
. If you've got them one right after the other or do not have the flow oriented through the solenoid properly that may be why it doesn't work. The pressure switch doesn't have a certain way to flow through it.
Well, that's a pretty long post for me, only time I think I've ever been this excited about water was looking at the swimming pool on a hot summer day as I was mowing the lawn