Booster pump and RO/DI unit

[reefrunner69]

I purchased an RO/DI and a booster pump from filterdirect off ebay late last week. The e-checks just cleared so I am hoping for delivery some time next week.

>>This<< is the RO/DI I bought.

and this is the booster pump

Booster pump assembly includes: booster pump, transformer, solenoid valve, pressure switch, electric wire.

* This pump assembly is to be used when source water to RO system has water pressure lower than 40 psi.

* The pump will boost and maintain feed water pressure to around 80 psi so that maximum efficiency of the RO system can be achieved.

* The pump is quiet, self-prime, can run dry without damage, and it is especially designed for RO systems.

* After installing Pump assembly, the RO system will be control electronically by the solenoid valve and pressure switch, so when tank is full or reaches 40 psi, the pump will shut-off and the solenoid valve would turn off the water supply. This is a better system than RO without pump since the pressure switch is much more accurate than the auto-shut-off valve in standard RO.

OK, someone explain the booster pump to me, I get that it increases the water pressure for the RO, but how do the selenoid and pressure switch attatch? Are they housed in the booster puomp or are the external. Is there any special way the booster pump needs to be mounted?

The Unit has dual output, one goes straight from the RO to the bladder tank and one goes through the DI for using for other purposes. The bladder tank then has a faucet that can be mounted on your countertop. It requires a 1/2-5/8" hole on the counter top. I was palnning on putting this on my sink, anyone have a favorite bit for drilling though stainless steel?

How hard are these things to install? I am a DIY idiot, although I have always found plumbing fish tanks to be fairly easy. Any help/heads up would be greatly appreciated.

 

[pipermurphy]

Okay I have the same booster pump, but different switch. The system came from the net & I couldn't get the switch it to work properly, so I had a local water treatment company come over. What he did was: install the pump first inline, then to the switch, to a T Valve, one end to an added a 3 gal storage tank the other end of the T to the RO system. He added the tank dur to the low water pressure I am on in the well. It creates a storage tank @ 40 PSI. The switch engages at 45psi and disengages at 80 psi.
I found that laying the pump on a flat surface rather than mounting it to the wall cuts down on vibration noise.
I also have the DI unit with drinking water attach, the best way to drill the stainless is with a uni-bit or step bit from Home Depot. They are $25 and have a cone shape with varying widths as you drill deeper.

 

[reefrunner69]

Well got the RO/DI today and installed it, only cussed a few times and the bleeding has stopped

Turned the sucker on and water shot everywhere!!! Instead of a needle piercing valve, this company uses and inline valve and on piece was loose on the valve, got that tightened down and no more leaks!!! Turned the booster pump on and started makiing some water, the tank filled in about an hour and a half maybe an hour, how did I know it was done?? The pressure switch worked!!! The booster pump shut it self off!! I discharged all the water in the tank and the pump started up again before all the water was released. Now we'll see if it shuts off again

Water going into RO 220 TDS, water coming out...15, I expect 0 or 1 out of the DI. Just a FYI, the water out of the DI read 50 when I first tested, I was really disappointed, then I thought, "Hey stupid, rinse the glass out with the RO water, did it three consecutive times and it comes out 15, so make sure you rinse your glass in the water your testing before you test!!

For those of you that have not gotten your pressure switches to work...I was suprised by the installation instructions that came with the booster pump assembly. I really am not mechanically inclined to have had a educated guess how it would go together, but thought they would go inline one right after the other...they don't. The cold water runs to the booster pump which then pumps it to the sediment filter and the carbon filters, when it comes out of the first three stages it goes into the solenoid and out to the RO membrane, from there it goes to the pressure switch and out to the tank and/or DI. If you've got them one right after the other or do not have the flow oriented through the solenoid properly that may be why it doesn't work. The pressure switch doesn't have a certain way to flow through it.

Well, that's a pretty long post for me, only time I think I've ever been this excited about water was looking at the swimming pool on a hot summer day as I was mowing the lawn