Check Valve for air pump.

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TMaier

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
May 13, 2016
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Looking for recommendations on a check valve that actually works! I've tested 2 brands from the BBS and if I disconnect the power, water makes it way back to the pump without the air pressure. I don't have a place to put the pump higher than the tank ATM so looking for a valve that works. Silly me.
 
Forgive me- what is BBS?

My check valves are cheap $2 dealies I got from [regional grocery /super store]. My pumps go on 15 minutes out of every two hours, and the valves keep the water in the tank.
 
With a Biorb the air stone and air tube exit at the bottom of the tank. So there is a fair amount of pressure pushing the water down the tube.
 
With a Biorb the air stone and air tube exit at the bottom of the tank. So there is a fair amount of pressure pushing the water down the tube.
Where the tube exits the tank shouldn't matter. The two factors that come into play are the water level and relative location of the other end of the tube.

The valves I have truly are house brand.
 
test your valves by blowing into 1 end, if it does blow thru then suck on same end & place your tongue over the hole.
If it doesnt blow thru turn it around & repeat the above.

If the check valve is working it will stick to your tongue indefinitely.
if it comes loose right away then there is debris in the seat.

to clean it fill 1ft or more of airline tubing with water & blow it thru valve (you can used your air pump for this)in the proper direction,then suck again.repeat until it holds..lol (catch water in a white cup for inspection?)

the debris comes from the diaphragm in the air pump,minute bits of rubber,or bits from pulling hose on/off.
this is why it is important to check valve operation on a regular basis as described above to prevent flooding.

Major reason for diaphragm releasing particles is it is pumping against to much resistance.(usually not enough total area for air to pass thru the stone)
to overcome that if you use a air valve manifold then you would open 1 unused port to the room by a small amount while still getting desired bubbles from your stone.

so

Airpump....manifold..valve 1..check valve...airstone/etc
.......................^....valve 2...open air ((open a impossibly small amount)
.......................^....valve 3 or more? closed or to air stones etc THRU another check valve

Also Never use a manifold to restrict flow to the stones/display by closing the valves WITHOUT allowing a path for the air to escape. IE extra valve open to the air,leave valve to stones/display fully open & if you have to many bubbles then open the Free to air valve more.

check valves are ALWAYS the last item before entering the tank,if you are not using a manifold having the check valve as far as practical from the pump can help for the particles have to travel farther uphill in the tubing so gravity is your friend there.(adding an extra 10ft of hose can help for it gives the particle time to slow & stick to the inside of the air line.)
also you need to add more stones/display to the line so the pump runs freely.
to know this bubbles should stop immediatly upon unplugging pump not Peter out over 1-2 seconds.

when tuning the open to air port you will hear the differance in the sound your air pump makes as it is no longer trying to push so hard, takes some tweeking but worth it in the end.

Damit I got long winded there LOL GL
 
I have tested it and have it going the correct direction. It is not pouring out when air pressure is lost but dripping through. The check valve is located about 6" from the tank and there is about 3' of tubing to the pump that is down below. I will try forcing the water through to clean it out.
 
Ask the planted Guys what they use for their co2 rigs if you don't find a suitable choice here....They don't mess around.
Here is a link to co2 valves...Ista is a good cheap brand .I have 2 of their reactors...
No links work to this site today?
Search co2 check valves ...
 
When I was doing DIY CO2, I would use the cheap plastic check valves. I did find that it was hit or miss with them sometimes. I always bought a few at a time just in case.
As for testing, I would use a plastic pediatric oral syringe, 10 mL ($0.79 in the baby aisle of my local grocery store). It was handy for dosing Excel, H2O2, and for testing check valves. Connect it to some air tubing and the check valve and test it by pushing the plunger in and back out (similar to what gold guru described above).
For my pressurized CO2 rig I'm using a Rhinox brass check valve. No complaints.
 
I looked at some of the valves for Co2 and they said they weren't for air? Are there some the will do double duty?

I will look for the Ista ones. Thanks.
 
I am not sure if some of the co2 ones need higher pressure,but many planters have their regulators set pretty low really so I think they are 'universal'..I had my reg at 3-5 PSI on the output side so not super pressured??
 
Since you cannot put the airpump higher, If you run a loop with your airline so that the top of the loop is above the tank, the water shouldn't be flowing past that point. A check valve would be the more ideal way but if you can't get one, this is an alternative for you. (y)
 
Andy has all the tricks! He makes me feel foolish sometimes...:oops:
I bet raising the the airline like he said and just about any check valve would work....(y)
Andy rocks!
 
Andy has all the tricks! He makes me feel foolish sometimes...:oops:
I bet raising the the airline like he said and just about any check valve would work....(y)
Andy rocks!
Geez, you make me blush ;) It's just an old trick from before check valves. I'm using it now in the hatchery. The PVC line for the air is underneath the top row of a section. All airlines go up over a bar across the row and then down to the tanks. Water has a hard time going up. (y)
 
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