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Old 02-12-2010, 01:32 AM   #11
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i had glass pices cut one was 5 and a half inches other was 1 and a quater inches got some paneling jointing strips and siliconed the small one on top as splash gaurd
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Old 02-12-2010, 03:01 AM   #12
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go to lowes and look for some of the clear plastic/rubber cabinet door pads. about diameter of a dime, and about 1/8" thick. forget the sticky backs to them, instead, use a small blob of silicone to hold them on. that will raise the glass up and it wont stick. also help protect the glass if you accidently drop it while lifting with wet hands (or maybe thats just me) last thing you want is glass shattering into your tank! id also do it in 2 pieces, not one large piece.
again, just incase it gets dropped while lifting.
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdrookie516 View Post
If you dont get good oxygen exchange at the surface (because the tank cant get much in to it) the co2 level rises which brings down the ph.

I'd heard that they're not typically used in SW setups but always thought it was something to do with lighting, didn't know what might happen regarding the pH - yikes!


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Originally Posted by PrawnShop View Post
What if you had a piece of glass/plexi that was just big enough to cover the light fixture and left the remaining space open.

Thought about doing that, then just leave the glass in place and not have to worry about sliding it but I'd like to get some African Dwarf frogs, once I get the plants growing again, and have heard that they tend to jump out of tanks with open areas.

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Originally Posted by bobberwobber View Post
go to lowes and look for some of the clear plastic/rubber cabinet door pads. about diameter of a dime, and about 1/8" thick.

Yes, thank you!!! I knew there was a better utility-grade option than those little felt pads but couldn't think of what it would be. But since the little pads will be rubber, would they be able to slide (which is what I'm hoping to do)? Assuming I can figure out how to do a sliding hood, those would probably also work as stoppers to keep the glass from sliding back so far that it hits the filter, just put them on the tracks somehow.
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Old 02-12-2010, 07:59 PM   #14
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i dont think they are actually rubber, more a plastic of some sorts. since the surface area is fairly small, i doubt it would offer much resistance really. if it was Saltwater id be more concerned, due to salt drying on the tracks, but with fresh i dont see it giving much of a problem.
i have a glass lid on my FW but mine hinges in the middle. not had any PH problems from it but the back is open about 2inches and 2 HOB filters offer a fair bit of gas exchange. the balas like to jump so i need a lid of some sorts, even then, scare them good enough, they can move the glass.. stupid things going to hurt themselves one day...
you know, lowes do sell small glass drill bits... many electronic stores, radio shack maybe, or even lowes, sell plastic nuts and bolts. you could hinge the glass using stainless steel hinges or plastic hinges of some sorts
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:52 PM   #15
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Figured out how I'd set up my new lighting & hood. For the actual light, a $10 shop light and decent, cheap 6700 T8 bulbs. For the hoods, get some plastic eggcrate to cover the back 1/3 of the tank, cutting out sections to fit around the filters (this stuff would keep me from pushing the hood in front so far back that it bangs the filter), leave the middle 1/3 of the tank open, and cover the front 1/3 with glass that could be slid back to front.
Got pretty excited about this idea. . .and when my boyfriend saw that I was really serious about replacing the light, agreed to trade lighting setups so that I could have his Coralife T5 fixture & plant bulbs Saved me money at least!
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