Eheim 2213 flow control

[yeldarb]

I have just received an Eheim Classic 2213 cannister and have installed it on a 23 gal tank. This is my first cannister filter. I would like to reduce the flow through the spray bar which I have installed vertically. Can I close the valve on one of the quick-disconnects to a point where the flow is restricted and more satisfactory? Should it be the valve on the inflow? The outflow? Could this damage the pump motor or the impeller?
Thanks for the help.

 

[TankGirl]

Welcome to Aquarium Advice, yeldarb!!

Instead of closing a valve and restrict flow in the canister unit itself, I'd consider widening the holes in the spray bar first.

If you take a round file, or a drill, and enlarge the holes it will reduce the flow enough to solve your problem, hopefully. You could also swap out the spray bar for a powerhead outflow but I think the spray bar with widened holes will spread out the flow adequately. I'd try to avoid putting any strain on the flow by means of a valve, as I think you will hamper the function of this most excellent filter.

 

[piranha]

I would agree with TG.When you turn down the flow of a powered filter you are putting a degree of strain on the motor.You won't neccessarily damage it in a short period of time but may shorten its normal life.Widening the holes on the spray bar is an excellent alternative.

 

[Nystina]

I'm having the same problem with my new filter. I'm told that the flow will slow down a bit over time. I suppose it makes a difference how messy the tank is and how long this takes. I don't want to drill anything until i know i have to.

 

[TankGirl]

What kind of filter do you have, Nystina?

 

[Nystina]

I just bought a Rena XP3, rated at 350gals/hr. for my 50gal. My last filter was a HOB and was rated at 400gals/hr. but didnt produce nearly as much current. My fish cannot even swim unless i restrict the flow quite a bit and angle the flow horizontal instead of 45 deg. downward. My background plants are now middleground

 

[TankGirl]

I have an XP3 on my 55, and I know what you're talking about!

There are various positions in the tank that help this issue, mainly aiming the spray bar straight across the tank, rather than pointed down, or, if your tank is deep enough, placing the spray bar on the short end of the tank, so the current flows the length of the tank instead of the width, and spreads the current out over a longer distance. I found that when the filter was new I did keep the flow adjusted back with the valve, but now I leave it full force, except at feeding time.

 

[yeldarb]

Thanks for the help.

I now have the spraybar horizontal across the the top rear of the tank, directed at the back glass, but pointed slightly downward. The current that is there seems to flow down the back of the tank to the bottom and appears fairly gentle. The surface is quite still. (Maybe too still?) In order to have my DIY CO2 function best, the surface needs minimal agitation.

There is a bit of a film on the surface that I will somehow have to deal with.

 

[TankGirl]

DIY CO2 will often produce a film, but you can install a gas separator if you want to deal with it.

http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html#4

Scroll down for the schematic on the system.

 

[yeldarb]

Thanks. Good thought, so I checked my CO2 line and it appears very free of any yeast residue. I have been running DIY CO2 for over a year now and have never seen this before. (I had seen that website before and thought that separator was a bubble counter! )

Would running a new filter do this?

I thought it might be some kind of bacterial scum which would clear itself after a short time. I have altered the filter spraybar to create more surface turbulence. Time will tell.

Oh... also, I noticed that the inside of both the inlet and outlet hoses both black AND white round dots covering them. Lots of them. This is after about 15 days of operating time. They they must have been bacteria or mold. Is this normal? I have now cleaned them.

 

[vega]

Or you can install a surface skimmer in the filter's inlet.

I am using Hagen's, been working great for 1 1/2 years.

The top will always draw the 1-2mm of water surface and the inlet will auto adjust with water's level.


http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=107&PROD_ID=01002400020101

 

[TankGirl]

It could also be from your dechlorinator - often the ones that contain aloe or other plant products for slime coat will do this.

Inlet and outlet hoses will get gunked up, usually with diatoms but sometimes with light-colored bits too, so it is a good idea to use a hose brush from time to time to maintain good flow. Nothing to worry about.

That's a pretty cool surface skimmer, Vega, and would do the trick in this case since it does not disturb the surface. Normally I recommend aiming the spray bar across the surface to disrupt the film but when running CO2 it's not the best thing, and this solves that problem.

 

[yeldarb]

Good thought, Tankgirl.

I am using Big Al's Multi-purpose Aquarium Water Conditioner... and it contains aloe vera. I trust that over time this will disappear? Maybe I should investigate the skimmer.

Over the years I have not used any conditioner when doing 25% water changes. I haven't lost fish nor seen any deleterious effects. Maybe I should go back to not using any.

 

[TankGirl]

I have used that Big Al's conditioner and is that stuff goopy, or what! That is a real giveaway - if it is viscous and thick then it might gunk up the tank and filter and everything else, and create scum on the surface. I think AquaSafe (yellow bottle) is goopy like that, too.