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Old 06-23-2011, 01:25 AM   #1
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equipment for 55 gallon?

So i'm having problems with this.

First lighting, I'm thinking about going with the coralife 48" T5 High output double linear. I"m going to be housing LPS, some SPS and a lot of softies.

Second is filtration, I'm going with a 40 gallon breeder sump/fuge. My plans are going to be exactly like this guys DIY 40 gallon sump build - Reef Central Online Community I'm not quite sure but, something seems a bit off about these plans for some reason. Anyways I'm not sure what I need exactly to set up the sump to the tank (ie bulkheads pumps plumbing ect)

Third aquascaping, I'm looking towards a more cavernous look. does anyone have any pictures so I can get an idea on how to do it?

and thats about it. any help would be appreciated.

thanks in advance.
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:41 AM   #2
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Start with the two bulb fixture listed, then as you and the tank grow add a second one as you move into LPS and SPS.

The sump looks okay. I don't run a sock on mine, I don't have any mechanical filtration in my whole system. I keep debris moving so it can feed things in the tank, not get trapped and rot somewhere lowering water quality and requiring me to feed more. I like to be able to see everything in the sump, so I don't have it setup with a front and back like that, and wouldn't unless I will be able to see all the sides.

Do you already have the 55? If not I would go with something like a 65 (36x18x24), this would be easier to work with as a reef.

Rock arrangement depends on your exact rocks. Get at least a few big pieces and you should have no problems setting up a few caves. You can use dry rock as your base rock (up to about 80% of your rock) as long as you spend the money on some really good live rock for the rest. The dry rock will become live. I used Feller Stone Antique Coral to supplement the rock in my tank.

Use bulkheads. If the tank is already running you are usually stuck with a hang-on overflow box. If you are still getting everything going definitely drill and bulkhead.
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:18 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishguy2727 View Post
Start with the two bulb fixture listed, then as you and the tank grow add a second one as you move into LPS and SPS.

The sump looks okay. I don't run a sock on mine, I don't have any mechanical filtration in my whole system. I keep debris moving so it can feed things in the tank, not get trapped and rot somewhere lowering water quality and requiring me to feed more. I like to be able to see everything in the sump, so I don't have it setup with a front and back like that, and wouldn't unless I will be able to see all the sides.

Do you already have the 55? If not I would go with something like a 65 (36x18x24), this would be easier to work with as a reef.

Rock arrangement depends on your exact rocks. Get at least a few big pieces and you should have no problems setting up a few caves. You can use dry rock as your base rock (up to about 80% of your rock) as long as you spend the money on some really good live rock for the rest. The dry rock will become live. I used Feller Stone Antique Coral to supplement the rock in my tank.

Use bulkheads. If the tank is already running you are usually stuck with a hang-on overflow box. If you are still getting everything going definitely drill and bulkhead.
what lighting should I upgrade to after my tank establishes more?

I'll be able to see all around the sump because it's a open bottom stand (metal) and you're technically saying I dont need a protein skimmer?

Yes I have the 55 already. I mean come on. free 55 with a stand :P haha

my lfs has some pretty decent dry rock I can probably use. i'll go check it out

how do i exactly know what size bulkhead i need?
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:06 PM   #4
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You should definitely run a skimmer. I said I don't use any mechanical media (the filter sock, prefilters on pumps, floss, pads, etc.). Get a very good skimmer. My 40 has an AquaC spray injection for up to a 180. For a reef you want the skimmer rater for about 3x the actual volume.

The bulkhead size is based on the return pump size. So if the return pump that is pumping water from the sump up to the display pushes 600gph at that head height then you want more than 600gph worth of drainage. I would do more than you need. You also want to keep the plumbing for the drains as simple as possible (straight down to the sump with as few turns as possible). I would probably use two 1.25" bulkheads if your return pump is running around 600gph.

Add a second one of those fixtures as a lighting upgrade later. It should fit if you use a glass canopy.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:48 PM   #5
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ok so for the bulkheads all i have to do is drill 1.25" holes for the bulks (one on the left and on the right) do a sort of a T type plumbing to the sump. Do i let the water just drain straight into the sump with an acrylic roof on the chamber?
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:27 PM   #6
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The hole will be larger than the plumbing. I don't remember the numbers but 1.25" bulkhead will get a much larger hole drilled. This is of course with a diamond drill bit, proper lubrication, etc.

Use a T with the bottom of the T going to the tank, one arm going to the sump, and one going up. The one going up will have a cap into which you drill a tiny hole, just enough for air to go in. This will help greatly quiet the usual gurgling.

I would hard plumb straight down to the sump. Use sweeping elbows, not sharp turns. I stepped up in size (from 1" to 1.25") so the piping that may be too restricting is larger in diameter (the coupler, elbows, etc.). I also did NOT glue the final drop pipe that went into the sump. The tee above it is glued to the rest of the plumbing. This allows me to remove the final drop pipe and change its length if needed. I have it adjusted to barely enter the water, keeping it quiet. I don't have any cap or top, but that is a great way to reduce evaporation, salt creep, etc.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:54 PM   #7
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The hole will be larger than the plumbing. I don't remember the numbers but 1.25" bulkhead will get a much larger hole drilled. This is of course with a diamond drill bit, proper lubrication, etc.

Use a T with the bottom of the T going to the tank, one arm going to the sump, and one going up. The one going up will have a cap into which you drill a tiny hole, just enough for air to go in. This will help greatly quiet the usual gurgling.

I would hard plumb straight down to the sump. Use sweeping elbows, not sharp turns. I stepped up in size (from 1" to 1.25") so the piping that may be too restricting is larger in diameter (the coupler, elbows, etc.). I also did NOT glue the final drop pipe that went into the sump. The tee above it is glued to the rest of the plumbing. This allows me to remove the final drop pipe and change its length if needed. I have it adjusted to barely enter the water, keeping it quiet. I don't have any cap or top, but that is a great way to reduce evaporation, salt creep, etc.

So i'm just going to guess what size to drill the hole and i'm guessing around 2 1/2"? (not going to do it yet till i know for sure)

I don't need two bulkheads one on each side of the tank? (right and left sides)

my father is a plumber so I can probably experiment with different sizes he has.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:43 PM   #8
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Verify the hole size. It may say it on the packaging for the bulkhead.

I would get a more concrete plan before I did anything. Figure out what pump you are going to use in the sump, its flow at the head height you will have it at, what bulkheads can achieve that, and then go with a little more drainage to be safe and in case you upgrade the pump later.

You may want to plumb the return too, this will look much better. You can split the return into two returns (one bulkhead each) and even then split them inside the tank with loc-line. I have seen some people use a SCWD on the return to alternate which return the water is going to, basically a hardware wavemaker.

It really depends on how KISS you want it to be. A well planned reef tank is easier to maintain and run. If you do it just to get it done you may spend even more in the future upgrading and modifying things that could have been done that way from the start, which is the easier and cheaper way to go.
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