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Old 04-21-2008, 02:32 PM   #11
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yea...shoudl be fine, i have 2 filters in mine, the mroe filtration the better in my opinion...i also have a random underwater filter lol
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:59 PM   #12
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You are a lot like I was when I got my first canister. I had to get advice from everybody. I know I drove everybody here nuts (AND NO YOU ARE NOT DRIVING US NUTS) asking them if it would be strong enough. And even when they all told me what I had would work just fine, I drove myself crazy searching every possible internet source or review for the canister I had. And to tell the truth I still second guess my decision but thats just the neurotic side of me talking. Fluval is no joke - they make a top line filter and several members here own them. If you are putting some fake plants in, a couple of ornaments, the neons, and a few other fish I truly believe you will be just fine. Just remember to arrange you intake attachment and your outtake attachment to maximize water movement. You may want to consider getting a spray bar (if one is not included already) for the outtake attachment to maximize water agitation.
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Old 04-22-2008, 12:16 AM   #13
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Is a spray bar the same as adding an airstone and serve the same purpose? I was considering getting a pump and a bubble wall airstone . I would liek to have some good size replica stones and driftwood in the tank, so i thought the extra air might keep the tank healthier. What are your thoughts?
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:26 AM   #14
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Yes and no - the way it was explained to me by members here - and what was confirmed by several articles I read on the internet - is that while both the spray bar and the bubble wall increase surface agitation that allows for the bad gases to escape and oxygen to enter, the bubble wall does a better job at drawing these gases that are at lower levels in the tank (makes sense - the bubble wall is at the bottom of the tank). So if it is possible and you like the idea, you can have both ------ A big misconception is that the bubble wall adds oxygen to the tank as it releases bubbles - but in reality the oxygen that is released into the tank as the bubbles travel up is small compared to the oxygen that enters the tank when the bubbles disturb the surface of the water --- the more surface agitation you have the greater the exchange of gases --- the tank I am setting up will have both a spray bag and a bubble wall
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:40 AM   #15
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I forgot to tell you.... Make sure to invest in a good water test kit for freshwater. The results from these tests are a good indicator that all is or all is not well with your tank. I have asked many questions as to what test kit to buy - and remember I am very neurotic with a dash of OCD - so I shopped around and asked lots of questions - So when I say a company by the name of API makes a great freshwater test kit, believe me. You may also want to pick up a phosphate test kit by the same company. All these tests show the health of your tank and warn of potential problems. ---- Also are you familiar with how to cycle a tank before you put fish in?
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Old 04-22-2008, 09:21 AM   #16
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Great.. Thanks for all the info. I'll check out that test kit. I'm lookin gforward to setting it up later this week. SHoul dbe picking up the setup on Thursday. Do the test strips work at all if i just want to do a quick check of everything? I will buy a real test kit as well, but i figured strips might be good for a quick check.
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Old 04-22-2008, 09:49 AM   #17
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Warped has pretty much rounded out the discussion. lol IMO, yes, it is adequate filtration. Don't be fooled though, not all manufacturers will sell you the correct equipment in a pre-packed setup. Most of the time you still need to upgrade the components. I aim for 10x filtration for a hob filter and roughly 3 to 5x filtration for a canister. I'd say you are adequate.

Do not waste your time or money on the test strips. They collect moisture and end up giving incorrect results. It is cheaper to just buy the API FW Master Test Kit. I did the math a few years ago and the strips rounded out to be about $1.50 a test. The API Master Test kit was roughly 7 cents per test. The API is a larger investment up front (maybe $15 to $20 for the entire kit) but it will last you a long time. You'll end up tossing the solution bottles due to expiration before you use them up. The test you will use most often in the beginning is Ammonia and Nitrite. Those tests are done in a matter of seconds. Use a baby medicine syringe (un-used of course) and measure out 5 ml of water from the tank. Squirt in the vile, add the drops, shake, and let it sit for a few minutes. Easy Peasy.
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Old 04-22-2008, 10:21 PM   #18
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Thabks for all you help and input. Its appreciated
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