I am purchasing a Fluval Vicenza aquarium setup(48gallon). The setup includes a Fluval 205 cannister filter. Will this be adequate? I'm not sure if i can even upgrade to the 305 even if i wanted to because the hoses enter the tank from underneath.
Filter size question? Powerful enough?
- Thread starter bsk
- Start date
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warped1
Aquarium Advice Freak
The 205 is rated at 180gph - which is a little more than 5 time your tank volume (I rounded your 48gal to 50). This, in my very humble opinion, is fine for your tank. And Fluval is a top of the line manufacturer of cannisters - they know what they are doing. But wait and see who else chimes in with advice.
warped1
Aquarium Advice Freak
I forgot to ask you - Maybe if you tell us what you plan to do with the tank and what kind of fish you want to put in it will help us help you 
pitt420dude
Aquarium Advice Addict
Geeze, I'm no pro bsk but can tell you that it is probably enough, though I prefer my tanks to be way overfiltered.
I have a 55 gal in which I'll run a Marineland H.O.T. (hang on tank) Magnum rated for 50 gals, and a fluval 304 (same filter but last years model) rated for 70 gals.
This is over double filtered, but I have a lot of driftwood and plants that reduce flow.
Depending on the amount of hardscape, and bioload you may or may not have enough filtration. As it is I'd say you're on the correct side of the cusp. Maybe adding a powerhead is the perfect solution.
I have a 55 gal in which I'll run a Marineland H.O.T. (hang on tank) Magnum rated for 50 gals, and a fluval 304 (same filter but last years model) rated for 70 gals.
This is over double filtered, but I have a lot of driftwood and plants that reduce flow.
Depending on the amount of hardscape, and bioload you may or may not have enough filtration. As it is I'd say you're on the correct side of the cusp. Maybe adding a powerhead is the perfect solution.
roka64
Aquarium Advice Addict
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
- Messages
- 13,858
Are you talking filtration for water movement or for bioload?
CatatonicBug
Aquarium Advice FINatic
The more stuff you have in the tank that blocks the flow of water, the more circulation you need to add. Of course, real plants aid in the chemical filtration, but the density can also impede water flow. You don't want any large dead spots where nasties can grow.
blindskate
Aquarium Advice Activist
yea...shoudl be fine, i have 2 filters in mine, the mroe filtration the better in my opinion...i also have a random underwater filter lol
warped1
Aquarium Advice Freak
You are a lot like I was when I got my first canister. I had to get advice from everybody. I know I drove everybody here nuts (AND NO YOU ARE NOT DRIVING US NUTS) asking them if it would be strong enough. And even when they all told me what I had would work just fine, I drove myself crazy searching every possible internet source or review for the canister I had. And to tell the truth I still second guess my decision but thats just the neurotic side of me talking. Fluval is no joke - they make a top line filter and several members here own them. If you are putting some fake plants in, a couple of ornaments, the neons, and a few other fish I truly believe you will be just fine. Just remember to arrange you intake attachment and your outtake attachment to maximize water movement. You may want to consider getting a spray bar (if one is not included already) for the outtake attachment to maximize water agitation.
Is a spray bar the same as adding an airstone and serve the same purpose? I was considering getting a pump and a bubble wall airstone . I would liek to have some good size replica stones and driftwood in the tank, so i thought the extra air might keep the tank healthier. What are your thoughts?
warped1
Aquarium Advice Freak
Yes and no - the way it was explained to me by members here - and what was confirmed by several articles I read on the internet - is that while both the spray bar and the bubble wall increase surface agitation that allows for the bad gases to escape and oxygen to enter, the bubble wall does a better job at drawing these gases that are at lower levels in the tank (makes sense - the bubble wall is at the bottom of the tank). So if it is possible and you like the idea, you can have both ------ A big misconception is that the bubble wall adds oxygen to the tank as it releases bubbles - but in reality the oxygen that is released into the tank as the bubbles travel up is small compared to the oxygen that enters the tank when the bubbles disturb the surface of the water --- the more surface agitation you have the greater the exchange of gases --- the tank I am setting up will have both a spray bag and a bubble wall
warped1
Aquarium Advice Freak
I forgot to tell you.... Make sure to invest in a good water test kit for freshwater. The results from these tests are a good indicator that all is or all is not well with your tank. I have asked many questions as to what test kit to buy - and remember I am very neurotic with a dash of OCD - so I shopped around and asked lots of questions - So when I say a company by the name of API makes a great freshwater test kit, believe me. You may also want to pick up a phosphate test kit by the same company. All these tests show the health of your tank and warn of potential problems. ---- Also are you familiar with how to cycle a tank before you put fish in?
Great.. Thanks for all the info. I'll check out that test kit. I'm lookin gforward to setting it up later this week. SHoul dbe picking up the setup on Thursday. Do the test strips work at all if i just want to do a quick check of everything? I will buy a real test kit as well, but i figured strips might be good for a quick check.
Fishyfanatic
Aquarium Advice Addict
Warped has pretty much rounded out the discussion. lol IMO, yes, it is adequate filtration. Don't be fooled though, not all manufacturers will sell you the correct equipment in a pre-packed setup. Most of the time you still need to upgrade the components. I aim for 10x filtration for a hob filter and roughly 3 to 5x filtration for a canister. I'd say you are adequate.
Do not waste your time or money on the test strips. They collect moisture and end up giving incorrect results. It is cheaper to just buy the API FW Master Test Kit. I did the math a few years ago and the strips rounded out to be about $1.50 a test. The API Master Test kit was roughly 7 cents per test. The API is a larger investment up front (maybe $15 to $20 for the entire kit) but it will last you a long time. You'll end up tossing the solution bottles due to expiration before you use them up. The test you will use most often in the beginning is Ammonia and Nitrite. Those tests are done in a matter of seconds. Use a baby medicine syringe (un-used of course) and measure out 5 ml of water from the tank. Squirt in the vile, add the drops, shake, and let it sit for a few minutes. Easy Peasy.
Do not waste your time or money on the test strips. They collect moisture and end up giving incorrect results. It is cheaper to just buy the API FW Master Test Kit. I did the math a few years ago and the strips rounded out to be about $1.50 a test. The API Master Test kit was roughly 7 cents per test. The API is a larger investment up front (maybe $15 to $20 for the entire kit) but it will last you a long time. You'll end up tossing the solution bottles due to expiration before you use them up. The test you will use most often in the beginning is Ammonia and Nitrite. Those tests are done in a matter of seconds. Use a baby medicine syringe (un-used of course) and measure out 5 ml of water from the tank. Squirt in the vile, add the drops, shake, and let it sit for a few minutes. Easy Peasy.
