filtering a big tank

[Guest]

Hello all,

I'm currently researching on building a big tank, between 75-150g. It's going to be a planted Discus tank, with pres. CO2.

I was curious if anyone has any opinions on filtering such a large tank. Seeing how its a delicate tank. Reliability is of utmost importance. Easy to maintain is high on the list as well.

I've ran Filstar XP's on a few tanks, which I have been very pleased with. With such a large tank would a wet/dry or sump be more practical? I'm treading into unchartered waters here. Any help would be hughly appreciated.

 

[Guest]

If it's going to be a planted tank in the 150 gallon range you can't go wrong with Ocean Clear cannister filters.

 

[Guest]

The Ocean Clear canisters look impresive. Not a bad price on Bil Al's either for what they have to offer. Thanks for the tip.

Anyone got any links for wet/dry and sumps. I've never used either of these and would'nt mind researching them.

 

[BrianNY]

Just FYI Mojo Troll, I'm using a Fluval 404 and a an Eheim 2217 on my 125g planted discus tank. I find the Fluval easier to maintain. I like having 2 cannisters on this tank because I feel comfortable alternating the cleaning.

IMO, you need to be diligent about cleaning your filters in a planted discus tank however, you don't need to change water more than once a week (depending on fish load).

Please let me know how your research goes re: wet/dry. I've never used one but am always looking to improve.

 

[malkore]

I love my Filstar XP2, on my 75gallon tank.
For discus you might want 2 canisters though...i know they need pristine water.

 

[Guest]

I'm a huge fan of Filstar XP series. Currently running a couple of XP1's on smaller tanks. Running a pair of XP's, dependant on what size tank I decide on was my first option. I was just curious if theres better option's on big tanks. So far a pair of canisters seem to be most reliable. As Brian said, you can alternate cleaning, which is very important in keeping a sustainable amount of bacteria. Plus, if one filter fails for some reason. You still have one filter working. Albeit one filter running in a big tank would be overworked, but atleast water would continue to be turned over.

I know what you mean about bioload Brian. Currently I have a heavily planted 40g with three Discuss 4" in size. I set this tank up as a trial, seeing how these were my first Discus. Needless to say, I'm hooked. err bad pun Anyway, I currenctly have an XP1 with a pre filter on the intake. I'm doing 25% WC's every 2 or 3 days. The prefilter gets cleaned every WC. I also have a powedhead with a course filter attached to help move more water. I clean the powerhead filter every WC as well. Thankfully this set up allows me to get by with cleaning the XP canister every couple of weeks.

Also Brian, you ever run a diatom in your 125g or is routine care enough?

Thank you all for the comments. I'm still open for suggestions.

It will be 3 or 4 months before I actually have a big tank up and running. At this point, Im trying to research as much as posssible before I start laying down hard earned cash.

 

[BrianNY]

Yes Mojo, I run the diatom for 1 hour per week on all 11 of my tanks. It might be over kill but............. better to err on the side of caution.

 

[Guest]

MTS is setting in to the point where a diatom might come in handy. I'll have to read up on diatoms. Does a diatom filter out plant nutrients like charcoil?

 

[BrianNY]

Good question. I doubt it (but am not sure), a diatom filter is mechanical, not chemical. It filters out impurities down to 1 micron. This includes many pathogens.
Because it filters mechenaically to such a fine state, it's also been called a water polisher.

 

[TankGirl]

If you are going to have decent lighting and pressurized CO2 you might want to skip the wet-dry or Biowheel system, just to keep as much CO2 in the tank as you can. There is debate about this being an issue, but I would personally stick with 2 canisters. I do love my XP3, and you certainly could not go wrong with Eheim Professional II series if you have a few extra shekels to spend.

 

[Guest]

TG...Thats certainly a good point, that had'nt dawned on me. Exactly why I posted this thread. Plumbing the CO2 into a pair of canister intakes would really mix the CO2 into the tank well, especially with a good reactor. I could see were CO2 would be lost in a wet/dry. Seems like a sump would need more CO2 output to manage both the tank and sump.

Anyone know if sumps or wet/drys waste much CO2? PH swings are something I really don't want to have to fight.

A diatom sounds like it would be a benifit. If you have several tanks. The cost per tank really is'nt that bad over the long run. Seeing how you only need one diatom filter. Could be just as handy as having a python.

 

[Todd2]

Here's a link to a DIY PVC canister filter. DIY would save you some money. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=52761

 

[Guest]

Standard cannister filters are great for smaller tanks. But once you go to that 6' length it's hard to beat an Ocean Clear. You can move up to 1000 gallons per hour though one of them with no problem. You can get them with built in UV. They come in several models. And for a plant tank where the primary concern is mechanical filtration they can't be beat.

Another good method for larger tanks is the Lifegard filter system.

With either one of these you can do your own plumbing and not have to worry about hoses kinking.

 

[Guest]

Rex,

I was just reading up on the Ocean Clears. That added UV looks rather interesting. Not to mention you can use a variety of pumps to target the output you want. Plus, depending on how you plumb it, you can reverse the pump flow. I still need to do more research to see if reversing the pump could be used for WC's. That would be sweet.

If you add up an Ocean Clear UV, pump, hard plumbing etc. It appears to come out cheaper than a pair of big Fluval's, XP's or Ehiem's canisters. These number were crunched on Big Al's for comparison. I'm sure it's debatable.

I'd really like to hard plumb as much as possible on a set up this big. Filters, CO2, reactors, maybe even try to plumb the heater outside the tank.

Thanks for all the help. Keep those opinions rolling in.

edit: DUHHHH you could just plumb a ball valve in with a hook up for a water hose and let the pump drain water out of the home into the flower bed or garden. To much research, brain overload 8O .

 

[TankGirl]

Oh yeah - you could definitely recycle that tank water - I have friends and family who come to my door with milk jugs begging for nitrate-rich water-change water (better than Miracle-Gro) to use for their houseplants, but my big high light, planted tank has scarcely any nitrate left after the plants are done, LOL!

You can plumb your CO2 into your filter output and skip the reactor altogether. Rex has the best instructions for that.

 

[BrianNY]

For my big tanks Mojo, I went with Jehmco pump for $35. I attach it to a garden hose and feed it through a window. It drains half the 125 in under 5 minutes. With so many large tanks, I couldn't imagine any other way.

 

[Guest]

I know what ya mean TG. Been using spent tank water for years on my houseplants. During the hot summer months, the houseplants can never get enought water. Good thing I have four tanks to maintain.

BTW TG......I was just looking through your gallery. You have some beautiful tanks.

Brian, some sort of pump will definatly be planned into the building of a big tank for WC's. Currently my largest tank is only 40g, so a python is adequate. Also Brian, do you inject CO2 into your 125? If so, how do you keep PH swings down with such massive WC's?

Thank you all for the help.